Poli-Seal "review"

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Stang Man

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I had hijacked a previous thread, and since it seemed like I wasn't the only one with this issue, I'd start a new thread. Here is the previous thread: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/46593-poli-seal-vs-gps.html

I was working on a 2007 Silver Honda Accord. It was later in the evening so no sun to worry about, temperature in the 60's with moderate humidity. I performed the following:

  • Dawn wash
  • Clay with a new Zaino claybar, clay lube was the diluted DP 4-in-1
  • Dawn wash again to remove and clay residue
  • Pulled it into the lit garage, and dried off using the Guzzler HD and another waffle weave towel
The car is my girlfriend's, and it's been neglected. She also used to live an apartment, which we all know run rampant with door dings. I touched up a few spots around the car to remove any paint transfer, and "knock off" the high ridges on some of the scratches.
  • Porter Cable buffer, 5.5" backing plate, Lake Country orange CCS pads, and Menzerna Intensive Polish. This made quick work of a lot of these scratches, making them much less noticeable.
  • There are SEVERE etched water spots on the passenger side- I went with a LC flat yellow pad and the IP to try and bring these down to a tolerable level, and I'd say I got them about 50% taken care of, but these spots are really bad and are going to require more than I have at my disposal. Rotary, and maybe even wet sanding, both outside of my skillset at the momeny.
The main reason for this work was to test out my new Poli-Seal. Here was my technique:
  • One light spray of the DP 4-in-1 onto the fresh LC white pad
  • A few small dabs on the pad
  • KISS the paint in working section
  • Spread with PC on 3-4
  • Ramp up to a 6 and slowly work the section until the Poli-Seal went clear
The Poli-Seal was pretty much all gone after the second pass. There were some areas where I may have moved the pad too quickly towards the end, and I'd buff off the remaining residue with a purple Cobra MF. This residue came off effortlessly!


I began running into problems after finishing about 1/3 of the car. The pad got noticeably darker, and even after "cleaning on the fly" with a terry cloth towel, I began to get a gummy residue on some panels. This residue got increasingly harder to wipe off, and wouldn't even "buff down". After finishing a panel and having this issue, I swapped in a new LC white pad and had great results again. Towards the end of the vehicle, it started showing the same symptoms, but I was finished by then.

I had read about the Poli-Seal gumming up pads, but I had no idea it'd be so pronounced! I'll switch pads more often, and I need to look at other ways to clean the pad on the fly with this stuff to prolong pad use.

I am happy to say that I'm pleased with the results. In the other thread I stated I had about a 50% correction, but I'd say it really ranged from 35%-40%. There was zero dusting, and the product was very easy to work with on a fresh pad. The paint is noticeably slicker, and the metallic in the silver really "pops" now!

This was just a test for me, and I'm sure if I had used an orange pad I could have gotten more correction, but I really wanted to see the protection and gloss of this one-step polish for myself, as well as how durable it is. For those wanting to try it, give it a go!


Feed back please
All that being said, any recommendations on pad cleaning? The terry cloth wasn't cutting it for me, IMO. Should I ditch the DP spray on the pad- was this contributing to the gunk?? Should I use water prior to cleaning on the fly? Some have recommended blowing the pad out with an air compressor- whats the best method for this?
Feed back please

If anyone in the Houston area wants to give the Poli-Seal a shot, let me know and I'll put some of mine in a sample bottle for you to try Im the MAN
 
If a pad starts getting really dirty, you should change it anyway. I like using a nylon pad cleaning brush between sections. I turn the machine on and then clean the pad with the brush. Works better than the terry towel method IMO. I think that method of cleaning will solve your issues. Perhaps using a bit less product once the pad is primed will also be beneficial.
 
Dr Oldz said:
If a pad starts getting really dirty, you should change it anyway. I like using a nylon pad cleaning brush between sections. I turn the machine on and then clean the pad with the brush. Works better than the terry towel method IMO. I think that method of cleaning will solve your issues. Perhaps using a bit less product once the pad is primed will also be beneficial.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the input!

I'm using the Porter Cable random orbital though.....wouldn't the DA give me some funky movements if it's not being pressed onto a surface? Maybe if I ran it at a slower speed, that would work. I'll give it a try! :props:
 
I clean mine at whatever speed I am polishing with.
 
I use 3-4 pads per car, wipe off the poli seal using Optimus car wax for added durability :)
 
Perfections said:
I use 3-4 pads per car, wipe off the poli seal using Optimus car wax for added durability :)
Click to expand...

I may need to add that to the next order! Along with some more pads...

After a few weeks to test the durability I am going to top it with Collinite 845, and upkeep with the Meg's Quick Wax. I'm not one to mix products, but I use whats on hand, and whats on hand works well :dblthumb2:
 
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