Polish Help needed for college student on budget.

kovalchuk71

New member
Joined
Mar 4, 2009
Messages
193
Reaction score
0
So I am getting ready to put my order in (20% off ROCKS :xyxthumbs:) and here it is:



My question is, even with the 20%, the final price is on the edge for me. I have the Menzerna's which are HUGE and expensive. I will only be detailing my own vehicle and my parents vehicles. Mine is a Mercedes and has a ceramic finish (Not nano finish). Can I use the Wolfgang TSR 3.0/FG 3.0 or the Megs 105/205 instead of the Menzerna 83/106 combo? Will the difference be extremely noticeable? Like I said this is just for me, and spending $100.00 on polish alone is rough right now as a college student. Buying the Woflgang saves me almost $60.00 and buying the Megs saves me almost $40.00. I will be using a PC 7424 for reference.
 
The Meg's twins will do what those two Menz will do and more.

The WG twins are VERY similar products, and rank on the same scale according to the AG chart.

I would get either the 105/205 or the WG twins over the Menz given your budget.

DLB
 
Thanks for the information. It looks like I am deciding between the WG and the Megs. So the WG will give me the same cut characteristics as the Menz 83/106 products? Also, The Megs 105/205 has non diminishing abrasives correct? That scares me a little, considering I am still a newbie and have not polished before.
 
This Wolfgang combo comes with one 5.5" Orange CCS Create a flawless finish in 2 simple steps with the Wolfgang Duo.. Saves you one pad off your order.

The Wolfgang polishes are made by Menzerna, milled in their factory. WG TSR 3.0 is basically Menz SIP and WG Finishing glaze is Menz nano PO 106 FA.

I have no exp. with a PC and needing smaller pads due to lack of power, but I bet you could get away with just the polishes and 5.5" pads. If someone disagrees with me, listen to them, All I know is my Flex and 6.5" pads.

If you go with Megs, don't be scared, it's only P.... polish :D
 
Last edited:
Why not try the 1Z Einszett Intensiv paste and 1Z einszett High Gloss polish? They are on sale (special values page) for $15 and $20 a full liter bottle. That would save you $55 and these products work every bit as good as the Menz IMO. They are designed for ceramic clear coats, are big bottles, work great and are cheap.
For info, I bought these 2 for my BMW (ceramic clear as well) and they work very, very well. I also bought Menz PO85rd and the 1Z HGP finishes almost as well, while having more cut.
 
Why not try the 1Z Einszett Intensiv paste and 1Z einszett High Gloss polish? They are on sale (special values page) for $15 and $20 a full liter bottle. That would save you $55 and these products work every bit as good as the Menz IMO. They are designed for ceramic clear coats, are big bottles, work great and are cheap.
For info, I bought these 2 for my BMW (ceramic clear as well) and they work very, very well. I also bought Menz PO85rd and the 1Z HGP finishes almost as well, while having more cut.

Do you know where your BMW was built?

If it was built in the US (South Carolina), it does not have a scratch resistant clear coat. Only the German models have it.
 
I will be using a PC 7424 for reference.


IF that's the 7424 then make sure you have plenty of 5.5" pads like the CCS cutting pads for correction work.

The older, first generation PC don't have the same ability to keep pads rotating like the new XP version.

I'm guessing you have the older one because I didn't see the letters XP in your post?
 
Do you know where your BMW was built?

If it was built in the US (South Carolina), it does not have a scratch resistant clear coat. Only the German models have it.


It's a 5-series...built in Regensburg, Germany (pics in my garage). It does have a scratch resistant CC, BUT, for as scratch resistant as the clear coat is supposed to be, I was amazed at how easy it was to take the minor swirls out with either 1Z HGP or PO85rd on a white pad. I am wonderring if the BMW scratch resistant / ceramic clear coat is has hard as the MB one.
 
IF that's the 7424 then make sure you have plenty of 5.5" pads like the CCS cutting pads for correction work.

The older, first generation PC don't have the same ability to keep pads rotating like the new XP version.

I'm guessing you have the older one because I didn't see the letters XP in your post?

Yes Mike I have the older one. How many pads? Also what polish do you reccomend? WG or Megs?
 
My question is, even with the 20%, the final price is on the edge for me. .


I did not notice that first of, but I see you have pads on orange/white and gray and in both 5.5 and 3.5'. IMO, you could save a little money by taking
- a kit of 6 pads in 5.5: 3 orange, 2 white and 1 gray (the more you go down the cutting scale, the less they gunk up or wear)
- a kit of 4' pads in orange should be enough (smaller pads help to keep the pad rotating when cutting, but once you are at the polishing stage, 5.5 should not have a problem moving, even with the older PC)

That could save you a few $. That and the 1Z polishes would be my choice (well, they were my choice not too long ago, I bought 2 orange/2 white/1 gray with a bottle of each of the main 2 1Z polishes...works great)
 
Yes Mike I have the older one. How many pads? Also what polish do you recommend? WG or Megs?

Ouch...

I've spent way too many years behind the first generation polisher....

If you have the first gen PC then do what you can to get some 5.5 CCS cutting pads, either yellow or orange, they both pretty aggressive.

As for compounds and polishes, the M105 or Ultimate Compound is a lot more aggressive than the Wolfgang TSR, TSR is a SMR while M105 and UC are true compounds.

SMR = Swirl Mark Remover, and this just means it's a lot less aggressive than a true compound.

I'd go for either the M105 or UC, both cut about the same. Wolfgang TSR finishes out really nice and it's so easy to use but if you need some major muscle then get a true compound.

As your pads become wet with product they won't want to rotate as well so it will be faster to switch out to a clean dry pad then try to limp along with a wet pad for any correction work. I documented this when buffing out a 1994 Corvette for Corvette Mike in SoCal, here's some pictures, count how many pads are next to my first gen PC


Here's a post I made recently here that talks about how many pads I used when using a FIRST generation Porter Cable as it didn't have the power to keep wet pads rotating under pressure.

WG TSR/FG & PC 7335 Technique

When I went to buff out a 1954 Corvette for Corvette Mike I took lots of extra polishing pads because at that time the only DA style polishers available were the first generation polishers and I knew as my pads became wet with product they would stop rotating and the job would take longer. This car had an antique lacquer paint job on it so I didn't want to use rotary buffer but instead play it safe and use the PC.


I count 7 yellow polishing pads in the below picture, as one pad would quit rotating effectively I would swap it out to a clean, dry pad.

54VetteEM001.jpg


I have extensive before pictures documenting how horribly scratched, swirled and water-spotted the paint was on this car but here's a few after shots...

54VetteEM002.jpg


54VetteEM003.jpg


54VetteEM004.jpg


54VetteEM005.jpg


When I went to buff out a 1954 Corvette for Corvette Mike I took lots of extra polishing pads because at that time the only DA style polishers available were the first generation polishers and I knew as my pads became wet with product they would stop rotating and the job would take longer. This car had an antique lacquer paint job on it so I didn't want to use rotary buffer but instead play it safe and use the PC.


I count 7 yellow polishing pads in the below picture, as one pad would quit rotating effectively I would swap it out to a clean, dry pad.

54VetteEM001.jpg


I have extensive before pictures documenting how horribly scratched, swirled and water-spotted the paint was on this car but here's a few after shots...

54VetteEM002.jpg


54VetteEM003.jpg


54VetteEM004.jpg


54VetteEM005.jpg





I'm happy to say the Griot's ROP, the PC 7424XP and the new G110v2 have all over come this problem and can now easily keep most pads rotating under pressure even as they become wet with product.

That said, if the paint is neglected then you're be removing impurities and a little paint and your pads will get a build-up of spent product on them, so you'll want to clean your pads as you work around the Tahoe or switch to clean, dry pads.

To clean them you can use this technique,

How to clean your foam pad on the fly

Wash them in a bucket or in a sink and rinse them out

Get a pad washer and wash them on the fly


FirstAdvancedClass064.jpg
 
WOW. thanks for the detailed post Mike! The thing is, I'm not sure If I need a compound or not. My car is 10 years old and has swirls for sure, so I figure if I get 105 and use a lighter pad, I will be okay right? Or would I just be better off using Orange?
 
Wow!

That picture you added to your thread was 1680 pixels wide!

I have a 24" screen and it took most of it up when I downloaded to my hard drive and the cropped out the fluff!

I re-uploaded the cropped out version and put in your gallery and then reinserted the sane size picture into your post.

Something that's helped me out all of my forum life is to,

  • Crop out the fluff
  • Resize their pictures to 800 pixels wide before uploading them to their Photobucket accounts...
This is 700 pixels wide an no one has to horizontal scroll to see the entire picture...

BatmobileFinished11.jpg


:)
 
sorry about that. Thanks for the help though! It was a full screenshot so that's why. How does the order look? Should i get more Pads?
 
sorry about that. Thanks for the help though! It was a full screenshot so that's why. How does the order look? Should i get more Pads?

That order looks like it will tackle a pretty wide spectrum of correction work.

Maybe someday look at upgrading to a 2nd generation PC, it really does offer more ability to keep the pads rotating.


:)
 
That order looks like it will tackle a pretty wide spectrum of correction work.

Maybe someday look at upgrading to a 2nd generation PC, it really does offer more ability to keep the pads rotating.


:)


I wrote an article on how to crop out the fluff but it's on MOL like the other 28,000+ posts I have over there. :laughing:


Cropping out the fluff just means cutting out everything around the outside of the meat of the picture. This take up less space, less room and it focuses your readers attention on what you're trying to share, like I did with your photo.

I'm lucky in that I have a copy of Photoshop Elements. I actually don't know how to do much in the program as all I use it for is cropping out the fluff.

Then I use EZ Thumbnails to resize my photos without distorting them. I upload TONS of photos, just today I uploaded all of these in this thread and I'm not done with the thread yet.

Tips & Techniques for using a Spray Detailer to Remove Light Dust, Fingerprints and Smudges


I always tell forum members if they're in this for the long run, and that means posting to forum, then might as well learn how to work with images, it's not that hard.


Good luck with our cars...


:)
 
That order looks like it will tackle a pretty wide spectrum of correction work.
:)

Is this a good thing? :-)

I really want a flex, but a college students budget can only go so far. :D. I just want my car protected and looking fairly nice. I got my PC plus backing plate for 50.00, so I can't complain.:xyxthumbs:
 
Is this a good thing? :-)

Remember, when detailing cars for money, don't get to wrapped up in creating swirl-free flawless finishes for cars that are daily drivers as they're just going to get swirled-out again.

Focus on claying the paint so the wax will bond well and making them shiny!

I don't ever try to tell people how to run their business, but instead just try to offer some balance as one of the goals is to make a profit and multiple step buff jobs take more time and if the person doesn't know a swirl from a squirrel then just make the paint clean and shiny and move forward.


:)
 
Remember, when detailing cars for money, don't get to wrapped up in creating swirl-free flawless finishes for cars that are daily drivers as they're just going to get swirled-out again.

Focus on claying the paint so the wax will bond well and making them shiny!

I don't ever try to tell people how to run their business, but instead just try to offer some balance as one of the goals is to make a profit and multiple step buff jobs take more time and if the person doesn't know a swirl from a squirrel then just make the paint clean and shiny and move forward.


:)

Mike, maybe you misinterpreted my post? I am not running a business, this is just for my families cars. :-)
 
Back
Top