polish splatter and specks from polishing

[Newcarsmell]

I did first polish test and I'm sure I ran into newbie issues. One particular, I was rotating the porter cable xp before putting it on the car and did splatter polish all over the car (not too much thankfully). I even read Mikes book about not doing that and forgot lol. But the more bigger issue is tiny dot specks being splattered all over the car. I had to use a waterless wash spray and mf towel to wipe it down (worried about black panels but guess it was ok). Just more time consuming and wondering what went wrong?

Did i use too much polish (i used scratch x 2.0 and swirl remover meguiars) on a 2x2 foot test . Abut six dots on the pad .

How can i prevent from tiny dot specks from making a mess (windows and hard to reach crevice was hardest) to remove.

 

[FUNX650]

I did first polish test and I'm sure I ran
into newbie issues. One particular, I was
rotating the porter cable xp before putting
it on the car and did splatter polish all over
the car (not too much thankfully).

I even read Mikes book about
not doing that and forgot lol.


How can i prevent
from tiny dot specks
from making a mess

:idea:

Re-read that particular section of Mike’s
book; and then, the next time around:
don’t forget to follow his tutelage.


Bob

 

[Newcarsmell]

yES I DO HAVE the book. just forgot.. i guess i miss tiny speck part

 

[FUNX650]

I was rotating the porter cable xp before
putting it on the car and did splatter polish
all over the car (not too much thankfully).

But the more bigger issue is tiny dot specks
being splattered all over the car...

yES I DO HAVE the book. just forgot..
i guess i miss tiny speck part

That tiny (dot) speck part is the
result from the polish splatter-ing.


Bob

 

[Newcarsmell]

That tiny (dot) speck part is the
result from the polish splatter-ing.


Bob

so am i using too much?

 

[DaveT435]

That’s a mistake most of us make ONCE.

 

[PaulMys]

That’s a mistake most of us make ONCE.

Lol!

You are right, Dave.

It is just a matter of teaching yourself not to start or lift the machine without contact.

Actually, doing this once is helpful to teach you NOT to do it again.

 

[acuRAS82]

I still can get small splatter when doing small/tight areas where not the whole face of the pad is in contact with the paint... this usually happens with a 3” pad with more aggressive polish and the machine on decent speed. I also believe that I tend to keep the pad too wet with QD at times which may contribute to this.

 

[Newcarsmell]

I still can get small splatter when doing small/tight areas where not the whole face of the pad is in contact with the paint... this usually happens with a 3” pad with more aggressive polish and the machine on decent speed. I also believe that I tend to keep the pad too wet with QD at times which may contribute to this.

but the specks doesn't affect anything other then annoyance and extra work right? i tape the trims etc but some areas i can't tape off due to odd shaped areas

 

[acuRAS82]

but the specks doesn't affect anything other then annoyance and extra work right? i tape the trims etc but some areas i can't tape off due to odd shaped areas

Absolute worst case, maybe the specks, with their cleaning ability, will cause some degrading of the LSP in the spot where it lands. I personally have never seen any realistic proof of this. Anywhere I’ve ever splattered, I wipe when dry and have seen normal performance in that area afterwards.

I wouldn’t wipe it while wet though because that would be doing similar to a very light (minuscule?) hand polish.

 

[SWETM]

Can be that the polishes you are useing are easier to fling the polish out of the pad. Or the pad it self has the build of fling splatter polish. As acuRAS82 mentioned it's also important to have the pad as flat as possible to the surface. This in the beginning is not so easy to catch if you have or not. Have a family member or a friend look at how you have the polisher on the paint if you might have it at a little angle and not flat to it. You can also setup your mobile phone camera or other camera and film your self while you are polishing or someone doing it for you. This I did in the beginning when I started polishing on scrap yard panels. And saw that I hold the pad flat on the paint. But I still had a little angle on the polisher so it slowed down the spinning on the pad. You can see on the side of the pad how it's compressed if it's an even compression or tipping over more on a side or up or down. It's much easier to dial in the feel and muscle memory in the beginning than change this when you have many hours behind the polisher.

Have not used the polishes you have. But generally the newer polishes don't fling/splatter even little spots if you polishing on surfaces where you have the pad flat on the paint. One thing is also to give the polishes a good shake before you start use it. And some you need to be doing it almost every time before you apply it on the pad. Or the heavier parts sinks to the bottom and you get a thinner liquid out of the polish bottle. Some pad conditioners can clogg the pores to much so the polish don't get soaked up enough in the pad and it splatter cause of that. Or if you use to much of the pad conditioners.

I polished the back window of the car yesterday with Carpro CeriGlass glass polish and their Rayon Glass Polishing Pads. When the glass get heated the CeriGlass dries out and you mist water on it. And of cause I sprayed a little much of water on the glass sometimes and it splattered a lot. It's thin consistency from the beginning and re-wetting it gets thinner before it's mixed up again. Glass polishing is a messy work and much cause of it's not totally flat and the thinner polish and thin pads. But the back window got very clean at least LOL.