Polisher? Paint correction? $200

asap2stacks

asap2stacks

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I have $200 to spend I'm looking for something that can easily do paint correction. What do you guys suggest I buy? Alright have a pc
 
Wait--you already have a PC and you're looking to buy a different polisher for $200?
 
I mean yea I have never used a rotary ok that doest mean sit here and bash me everyone has to start some where just like I'm sure you did. I have used my pc for about 3 months now and have done over 25 vehicles with it and haven't had any bad reviews with are services. That's face it tho the pc takes to long to do paint correction with and I'm a detailer that's in business and time is money, what can do the job faster at a safely manner I'm not stupid and going to hold a rotary or any polisher that is over a spot at 3000rpm and burn through the paint ok so common dude you gonna help me out or are you gonna sit there and keep bsing
 
What kind of pads and compounds do you have?. A dual action performs great with the right technique and products.rotary is ideal for isolated deep scratches and damp sanding.The griots dual action is one little powerful machine.why would you rotary a car and spend so much more time to remove the halograms left from the rotary,unless your getting 700 to 1200 for a correction and coating .If not then don't create more work and promblems for yourself.
 
I use lc pads I was thinking about getting the g21 just spending the extra $
 
asap2stacks said:
I mean yea I have never used a rotary ok that doest mean sit here and bash me everyone has to start some where just like I'm sure you did. I have used my pc for about 3 months now and have done over 25 vehicles with it and haven't had any bad reviews with are services. That's face it tho the pc takes to long to do paint correction with and I'm a detailer that's in business and time is money, what can do the job faster at a safely manner I'm not stupid and going to hold a rotary or any polisher that is over a spot at 3000rpm and burn through the paint ok so common dude you gonna help me out or are you gonna sit there and keep bsing
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nobody is calling you stupid.The fastest way to do a detail is with a pc.maybe you just need to brush up on different products and pads and find the correct arm speed and technique suited for different paint conditions.maybe you can order mike Philips book and read it.He has a lot of info on different situations and proper technique.we all start from somewhere and some of us learn the hard way and using a rotary for production detailing is not the way to start off good luck and think about the mp book it's cheap and you just can't go wrong.
 
Here is how I would look at it. If I was a tradesman doing a specific trade, I would make sure I have the RIGHT tools to do the jobs I need. If the tools I needed cost a certain amount, that is outside of my budget, I would wait until my budget allows me to get what I need. I would not sacrifice or buy something that may work but not be quite right for the job because it is cheaper. In the meantime, at least in this case, I would look at products and processes that allow me to become as efficient as possible with the tool I have. In the case of the PC7424, there are lots of products, pads etc that change how efficiently that tool can be.
 
Since I'm a newbie into detailing......and have really only been serious about it approx 3 months, I see myself as still learning and refining my technique. For me, this will serve me better right now than expanding my tools beyond my GG6. I'm still learning about different product/pad combinations, types of paint on different makes/models...so the learning curve is still very steep.
 
Jaretr1 said:
Here is how I would look at it. If I was a tradesman doing a specific trade, I would make sure I have the RIGHT tools to do the jobs I need. If the tools I needed cost a certain amount, that is outside of my budget, I would wait until my budget allows me to get what I need. I would not sacrifice or buy something that may work but not be quite right for the job because it is cheaper. In the meantime, at least in this case, I would look at products and processes that allow me to become as efficient as possible with the tool I have. In the case of the PC7424, there are lots of products, pads etc that change how efficiently that tool can be.
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This and the additional new pads and products can be used if and when you upgrade your machine
 
As Mike Phillips explains in his book "Complete Guide To a A Show Car Shine" in which pages 50-71 he goes over Machine Polishers.
Mike Phillips’ The Complete Guide to a Show Car Shine Paperback Book

DA Polishers from page 50-62, Rotary from 64 to 66, Foam & Fiber Buffing Pads from 72-91, then step-by-step pages 117-128.
This is in addition to countless videos he has posted here on AGO, YouTube etc.

One thing he mentions about rotary and wool pads is that it takes experience and skill to use a rotary/wool w/out holograms. It's best to practice on an old body panel from junk yard or body shop...

Otherwise, you will not be saving any time... You will still have to use a DA w/ Polish to finish off, or surface prep for the LSP.

As GSKR mentioned above, have you looked into long throw polishers such as the GG G-15 or GG G-21? Both are absolutely fantastic DA's and the BOSS system is incredible to work with, from the pads, MF Pads through the creams.

True paint correction isn't something done in an hour or two... If it's quick details you want, my suggestion is G-15 or G-21, BOSS Pads (Yellow or Orange) and HD Speed, or Boss Finishing Sealant.
 
asap2stacks said:
I use lc pads I was thinking about getting the g21 just spending the extra $
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I can't tell you how many times I've put my fancier machines aside in favor of the PC.

I can usually get the job done with the PC paired with green Buff and Shine pads and Ultimate Compound, M100, or FG400.

If not, I use Meguiar's D300/DMC5 (microfiber cutting pads).

The past month or so I've been hot and heavy with my Rupes Duetto with their blue foam and microfiber pads, and their blue Zephir compound. That's rapidly becoming my weapon of choice.

Seriously though, give the Meguiar's system a shot. It's fantastic. Make sure to order the Xtra cut microfiber discs too.
 
If you already made up your mind about acquiring a rotary, I advice you buying one that starts at 600RPMs instead of 1000. DeWalt 849, Makita 9237, or if you have the cash, the PE14.
Forget about wool pads for a while, start with foam pads, until you get the hang of it.
But I also advice you hearing what other more experienced folks said it earlier about a Rupes or a Boss.
 
asap2stacks said:
Let's face it though, the pc takes to long to do paint correction with and I'm a detailer that's in business and time is money
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get a flex 3401 (built like a tank) and/or the G21 (large-throw DA) would be another excellent option as well. keep your PC for other delegated areas...
 
paul_g said:
have you looked into long throw polishers such as the GG G-15 or GG G-21? Both are absolutely fantastic DA's and the BOSS system is incredible to work with, from the pads, MF Pads through the creams.

True paint correction isn't something done in an hour or two... If it's quick details you want, my suggestion is G-15 or G-21, BOSS Pads (Yellow or Orange) and HD Speed, or Boss Finishing Sealant.
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^ great advice!
 
Lol using a rotary for faster production buffing is a disaster waiting to happend.

You will just be installing rotary holograms if your doing production buffing.


Get a long throw orbital, g21 g15 or rupes 21 or 15.

That will give you more power but not put holograms in the paint.

If your going to use a rotary polisher, you have to be prepared to do multiple steps to take the holograms out.

And lets say you use a soft pad and at a low speed, your not doing much. And can still put holograms on certain paints.
 
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