Polishing my black 2018 Acura RDX - seeking advice.

[theTown]

Background:

Hi everyone! This is my first time attempting to correct / polish a vehicle.

The vehicle is a 2018 Acura RDX and the paint is black.

I did a test on the driver side doors middle section and it is not finishing out how I expected.

Here is the paint condition BEFORE:
Tools:

* Griots G9 with stock 6 inch plate
* Griots black finishing pad (not boss)
* Griots Perfecting cream

Process:

The car was first washed, iron x-ed, and clayed.
I started with the combo mentioned above in a test spot:

* speed 3
* 3 passes - slow speed and trying to keep as even of pressure as possible.
* IPA wipe.

The result in the garage looked great:

I roll the car outside and it looks amazing...at first:

Again...paint looking nearly perfect upon initial inspection, I'm very pleased:

Ok, so I assume this paint is pretty soft considering griots least aggressive setup nuked 99% of the defects in only a few passes on lower speed right...?

Then I start bobbing my head around to reflect sun light at various angles and see TONS of micro marring. It almost looks like wax applied too thick. Re-IPA wipe. No Change.

I pulled it back into the garage and do a couple more passes. Same result - micro marring everywhere but its only visible in specific sunlight.

Micro Marring:

More Micro Marring:

Micro Marring different light:

My question(s):

What does this look like to you all and what would you suggest to finish out this paint?

Here are some of my thoughts as a novice:

1. Could it be deeper scratches and I need to go more aggressive? I'm doubting it since they're so fine and the second round of passes did nothing.

2) Could the Acura black paint be SO SOFT that my setup is marring up the paint as a I go?
What could I try that is even less aggressive to see if it cleans this up?

3) If 2) is true - could my panel wipe technique be marring the paint? Is there a more gentle way to do this?
Can anyone suggest towels for delicate paint (assuming this is the issue)?

4) Is my technique just way worse than I think it is and uneven pressure (or something) is creating this? The large 6.5 inch pads do feel a bit tough to work with.

Looking for some wisdom on steps to troubleshoot! Thanks!

 

[Forty]

IMO, your process and tools should not be leaving micro marring. What towels are you using for polish residue wipe off? Is wipe off easy (1-2 passes) or more challenging?

 

[noorth]

My first thought is that many professionals say you need a standard polishing pad to finish on soft paint - griots yellow or orange pad. Sounds counter-intuitive but I've seen it mentioned many many times.

A polish like gyeon primer is apparently very good on soft paint also.

 

[opie2]

If you posted pics, they are not on there.

Also why are you doing an ipa wipe? Its a terrible lubricatant. That could be the source of marring

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[Forty]

If you posted pics, they are not on there.

Also why are you doing an ipa wipe? Its a terrible lubricatant. That could be the source of marring

Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

Agreed. Carpro eraser or Gyeon prep are two excellent panel wipes. No need to use IPA.

 

[Coatingsarecrack]

Yes agreed with IPA get something like mentioned before a dedicated prep wipe. Also agreed perfecting cream and a finishing pad will do nothing to remove swirl marks and rids.

Your car is 4-5 years old unless it’s garaged and has less then 4,000 miles on it and never seen a tunnel wash and hand washed with the best products with perfect technique your car has some to a lot of defects.

I think you are polishing to a nice shine which is making defects more evident.

If you have correcting cream and other pads I would try perfecting cream with yellow boss pad and then correcting cream with the black, then correcting with yellow.

If need more aggressive correcting with orange boss. You shouldn’t need fast correcting cream.

Also yes your pictures are not showing up. Download TapaTalk, it’s a Forum hosting site and you can post pics directly from your phone.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Flash Gordon]

You would've gotten better results if you had used a stiffer pad. I would also recommend bumping the speed up to 5, apply moderate pressure and then work in small sections (3'x3')

I wouldn't bother with the IPA unless you're applying a coating

 

[Bosko]

the pad and the cream are second and third steps for correction in Griots line up.... go with....CC cream and orange pad...:xyxthumbs:

 

[98CayenneTA]

Make sure when you're applying polish to your pad you prime the very very outer edge of the pad and up the side a bit for that edge will make more contact when mild pressure is applied and it ABSOLUTLEY will cause micro maring on butter soft paint which your Acura does have.

Your process may be a touch aggressive and I would try giving the pad a couple sprays of water.

If that does not work try a wax pad like buff and shine red pad with Menzerna 3800 or Carpro Essence

 

[theTown]

Wow! So sorry the pics did not show up. I feel like that makes this post basically useless. They definitely show up for me which is odd. I will post a reply soon with pictures to go along with all those descriptions.

EDIT: Can you see the images now?

 

[Bosko]

pics show up now

 

[theTown]

IMO, your process and tools should not be leaving micro marring. What towels are you using for polish residue wipe off? Is wipe off easy (1-2 passes) or more challenging?

Rag Company spectrum 420 and some AG freebies I got with an order. I'd say more challenging, almost like the polish oil was smearing around which is why I added the IPA to help cut through it.

If you posted pics, they are not on there.

Also why are you doing an ipa wipe? Its a terrible lubricatant. That could be the source of marring

Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

Hoping pics are showing now. I read it recommended somewhere. I will stop doing this and see if results improve.

Yes agreed with IPA get something like mentioned before a dedicated prep wipe. Also agreed perfecting cream and a finishing pad will do nothing to remove swirl marks and rids.

Your car is 4-5 years old unless it’s garaged and has less then 4,000 miles on it and never seen a tunnel wash and hand washed with the best products with perfect technique your car has some to a lot of defects.

I think you are polishing to a nice shine which is making defects more evident.

If you have correcting cream and other pads I would try perfecting cream with yellow boss pad and then correcting cream with the black, then correcting with yellow.

If need more aggressive correcting with orange boss. You shouldn’t need fast correcting cream.

Also yes your pictures are not showing up. Download TapaTalk, it’s a Forum hosting site and you can post pics directly from your phone.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Pics should be loaded to show before and after. Will stop the IPA wipe. I do have correcting cream and an orange pad.

You would've gotten better results if you had used a stiffer pad. I would also recommend bumping the speed up to 5, apply moderate pressure and then work in small sections (3'x3')

I wouldn't bother with the IPA unless you're applying a coating

Another vote for stiffer pad - Could give it a try with an orange pad.

Make sure when you're applying polish to your pad you prime the very very outer edge of the pad and up the side a bit for that edge will make more contact when mild pressure is applied and it ABSOLUTLEY will cause micro maring on butter soft paint which your Acura does have.

Your process may be a touch aggressive and I would try giving the pad a couple sprays of water.

If that does not work try a wax pad like buff and shine red pad with Menzerna 3800 or Carpro Essence

Great point and I already learned this the hard way haha! Your comment is interesting in that it differs from the opinions to try a stiffer pad. So the Acura paint is indeed extremely soft? The results definitely had me scratching my head.

 

[2black1s]

As hard as an internet diagnosis is... Here's what I see.

The initial scratches appear to have been removed. The marring you are referring to looks like wiping streaks to me along with some tiny pits in the paint. The pits - probably nothing you can do to remove them. The streaks - repolish those areas using very little pressure and carefully remove the polish residues. See what that does.

You could even do a very light hand polish to those areas.

I don't see any indication of DA induced micro marring. Such marring is usually indicated by superficial pig tails in the finish, and I don't see any of those.

I'm not familiar with the polish you are using, but I would think the finest, least aggressive polish you have should do the trick. As for pads, I'd take a step up from the finishing pad you are using, as a starting point, and then experiment from there.

Like others have said, unless you are applying a coating, skip the IPA wipe (or any panel prep for that matter). If you are applying a wax or sealant there is absolutely no reason, or benefit, to using any panel prep wipe unless it is specifically recommended by the manufacturer.

And 98CayenneTAs recommendation to prime the pad edges is a good one... That is standard practice for me.

Good luck.

 

[Forty]

98CayenneTA approach makes sense. Try it. Let us know how you make out.

 

[theTown]

As hard as an internet diagnosis is... Here's what I see.

The initial scratches appear to have been removed. The marring you are referring to looks like wiping streaks to me along with some tiny pits in the paint. The pits - probably nothing you can do to remove them. The streaks - repolish those areas using very little pressure and carefully remove the polish residues. See what that does.

You could even do a very light hand polish to those areas.

I don't see any indication of DA induced micro marring. Such marring is usually indicated by superficial pig tails in the finish, and I don't see any of those.

I'm not familiar with the polish you are using, but I would think the finest, least aggressive polish you have should do the trick. As for pads, I'd take a step up from the finishing pad you are using, as a starting point, and then experiment from there.

Like others have said, unless you are applying a coating, skip the IPA wipe (or any panel prep for that matter). If you are applying a wax or sealant there is absolutely no reason, or benefit, to using any panel prep wipe unless recommended by the manufacturer.

Good luck.

Do you recommend a gentle dry wipe to remove the residue? How about a detail spray to help? I feel like if I sneeze this paint will scratch :laughing:

Great tip about the light hand polish. Worth a shot. Also another vote for trying a step up from the finishing pad.

98CayenneTA approach makes sense. Try it. Let us know how you make out.

Absolutely, I will be trying various suggestions from this board on new test panels and reporting the magic formula once I have time to get after it.

 

[2black1s]

Do you recommend a gentle dry wipe to remove the residue?

Yes.

How about a detail spray to help?

No.

If there is any "glazed" product remaining after your initial light wipe, rewet the area with your polish (by hand) and immediately wipe.

Very light streaks from polish residues, if any, aren't really that big of a concern at this point... Your wax or sealant application will most likely take care of that. Then as a very last step, following your wax or sealant, a quick detailer can help.

Great tip about the light hand polish. Worth a shot. Also another vote for trying a step up from the finishing pad.

:xyxthumbs:

 

[opie2]

Do you recommend a gentle dry wipe to remove the residue? How about a detail spray to help? I feel like if I sneeze this paint will scratch :laughing:

You should not use anything to wipe off compound/polish residue but the towel.

Have you been doing otherwise?

Again, even if you were to apply a coating...my advice, do not use an ipa. There are so many good panel wipes out there that were made for that purpose.

Do a test spot with your polish and wipe with towel only pul outside and check for marring.
Then report back.

Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

 

[2black1s]

Slightly off-topic, but somewhat related, the only issue that I have seen (typically) when inspecting a finished job in direct sunlight is maybe a streak or two that can be remedied with another wipe or a quick detailer, or the like.

As far as marring, or other correctable paint defects go, those are usually evident in the garage with adequate lighting.

And related to the recommendation to prime the pad edges which is something I always do; I also prefer pads that have a contoured edge (e.g. Rupes DA, Meguiar's Soft Buff) over those with a square edge like the Griot's. Pads with contoured edges are especially beneficial, in my opinion, when polishing into concave contours, of which there are many.

 

[opie2]

And related to the recommendation to prime the pad edges which is something I always do.

Whats your thought behind it? I only give a fresh pad 4 pea or slighty larger sized dots, and 1 or2 on a reload. Ive found that to work well for me. So im curious

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[2black1s]

Whats your thought behind it? I only give a fresh pad 4 pea or slighty larger sized dots, and 1 or2 on a reload. Ive found that to work well for me. So im curious

Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

Here's my opinion... And it's just that... My opinion. I have no hard evidence either way, but it just seems to make sense to me.

Would you take a dry pad and run it on a perfectly polished black panel? Probably not. I know I wouldn't. But if I had a black test panel, I might try it to see the results. I'd expect some level of marring to occur.

Now, take that logic and apply it to your polishing. If the edge of your pad is dry and you're moving into a contour leading up to an edge, the dry edge of the pad might cause some marring in that contour.

That is why I prime the edge of the pad... To eliminate that possibility.

Make sense?