Polishing Necessary after Clay Bar?

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GB PackerFan

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I have a new RAM 1500 (my daily driver, kept outside) and just started into detailing. Learned a lot from this site and a few others. I'm detailing the exterior...Wash, Clay, IPA, Polish, Sealer, Wax to set the baseline (in stages, since I don't have a lot of shade except a few hours in the AM). Soon it's maintenance (weekly washing, exterior detail about every 4-6 months). I used a fine grade clay bar (ultra poly clay), Menzerna 3800 polish (CCS black pad), Wolfgang 3.0 sealant and #845. Looking to the future, the next time I do a full exterior detail, will I have problems if I clay bar and IPA and skip the polish step? Am I right in thinking the IPA step removes any clay residue or should I wash the truck again instead? After wiping off the clay lubricant with a microfiber, when I IPA'd, I didn't see any residue (greenish/blue clay) on the IPA microfiber. It seems if I don't have to do any paint correction, I wouldn't need to polish and what I did initially was probably the least aggressive polishing I could do (dealer did a good job prepping the vehicle...surprise!).

This question has been asked in a few places here and on a few other detailing sites but most folks confuse or combine polishing with sealing/waxing as if they were the same thing, maybe because a lot of them use a cleaner wax? I really like the look of the 3.0 and #845 on the maximum steel metallic paint, so wouldn't want to add another step/product. Answers to the polishing question ranged from you have to polish after clay; it's not needed...polish too much and you'll wear down the clearcoat over time (years); it depends on how the paint looks; to it's up to you...lots of diversity in the answers, no real consensus. I just don't want to mess up the finish and have to redo the entire process. Polishing is the most time consuming step, not that I mind, but the truck is BIG...a lot of ground to cover in 2' x 2' sections.

I have to say, with a DA polisher, detailing sure is easy, just time consuming...
 
you could skip polishing after claying and apply your lsp if you use a fine grade clay if it doesn't marr/scratch (IME it will a little). i would at least do a light polishing step after which may be all that is needed if the paint is in good shape. it's one of those YMMV situations...
 
•When I clay, I always follow-up with,
(at the very least), a very mild polish.
-You'll discover that a "swirl-finder"
light source can be a great tool in
these instances.


•And to add:
-Personally, I see no need for the IPA
in your above outlined processes.
-You're not applying any products that
their manufacturers recommend its
usage beforehand.



Bob
 
Since this is your first post to our forum...


Welcome to AutogeekOnline! :welcome:


GB PackerFan said:
I have a new RAM 1500 (my daily driver, kept outside) and just started into detailing. Learned a lot from this site and a few others.

I'm detailing the exterior...Wash, Clay, IPA, Polish, Sealer, Wax to set the baseline (in stages, since I don't have a lot of shade except a few hours in the AM).
Click to expand...

Chemically stripping the paint using IPA is an option. I wouldn't do it and don't do when I'm using traditional car waxes and synthetic paint sealants. I have an article about this here,



Miscible and Immiscible - Wax and Paint Sealant Bonding



GB PackerFan said:
Soon it's maintenance (weekly washing, exterior detail about every 4-6 months). I used a fine grade clay bar (ultra poly clay), Menzerna 3800 polish (CCS black pad), Wolfgang 3.0 sealant and #845.

Looking to the future, the next time I do a full exterior detail, will I have problems if I clay bar and IPA and skip the polish step? Am I right in thinking the IPA step removes any clay residue or should I wash the truck again instead? After wiping off the clay lubricant with a microfiber, when I IPA'd, I didn't see any residue (greenish/blue clay) on the IPA microfiber.
Click to expand...

I've never used IPA to wipe off clay residue as a part of a process. As long as you use plenty of clay lube you should be able to clay a section and the wipe off the clay lube and residues created using a clean, soft microfiber towel well enough that no other step is needed before you polish and then seal the paint or skip polishing and seal the paint.

You stated you're working outside so I do understand that when working on HOT paint clay can smudge but still... you can wipe the smudges off with a towel and some clay lube. It won't hurt to use IPA so go for it if needed.



GB PackerFan said:
It seems if I don't have to do any paint correction, I wouldn't need to polish and what I did initially was probably the least aggressive polishing I could do (dealer did a good job prepping the vehicle...surprise!).

This question has been asked in a few places here and on a few other detailing sites but most folks confuse or combine polishing with sealing/waxing as if they were the same thing, maybe because a lot of them use a cleaner wax? I really like the look of the 3.0 and #845 on the maximum steel metallic paint, so wouldn't want to add another step/product.

Answers to the polishing question ranged from

  • you have to polish after clay;
  • it's not needed...
  • polish too much and you'll wear down the clearcoat over time (years);
  • it depends on how the paint looks;
  • it's up to you...


lots of diversity in the answers, no real consensus.

I just don't want to mess up the finish and have to redo the entire process. Polishing is the most time consuming step, not that I mind, but the truck is BIG...a lot of ground to cover in 2' x 2' sections.

I have to say, with a DA polisher, detailing sure is easy, just time consuming...
Click to expand...


Here's the deal - everyone is different. That's why you get different answers about a common detailing procedure.

Here's my take and this is just my take...

If I'm going to do any type of mechanical decontamination to paint then I'm going to already be planning on doing at least ONE MACHINE POLISHING STEP afterwards. This is because I want to insure that if any marring from the mechanical decontamination process happens to the paint that I remove it and restore the maximum gloss and clarity to the finish.

That's my criteria but no one else has to follow it.

Also - even if you do accidentally mar the paint rubbing clay or a clay towel, or a clay mitt or a fill-in-the-blank over the paint, the act of applying the sealant and wax will mask any light marring so you'll never see it and this sounds like it will suit your objectives.


Don't know if the above helped...


:)
 
Thank-you to everyone who took the time to reply. I appreciate the huge knowledge base you represent. A swirl finder light looks like a future investment.

Mike- Thanks for your take on the process, your experience really helps us new detailing "hobbyists" understand what works and what doesn't. I'll skip the IPA and it looks like I should polish every time I clay bar or at least every other.

This is a fantastic site with boatloads of info, sometimes it just takes a bit to sift through it all.
 
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