Polishing oils residue

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kodakdave

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Hey all,

i'm having a problem for a while now where if i polish an area and then continue to remove the oils with carpro eraser im then left with what looks like marring but it keeps moving in the way i wipe. im having this issue on my own car and a test panel.

i'm not sure if this helps but i'm using a brand new gyeon polish wipe (so it would be weird if this is marring as im also gentle in wiping) and i polished using rupes yellow with m205, rupes yellow, pf2500.

any input is appreciated!:props:
 
how old is the eraser and at what dilution? And has it been allowed to freeze and then re-thaw?
 
If you're happy with the results after polishing finish the whole vehicle. Then..

Spray Eraser on each section until it just begins to run and with a clean, short nap MF towel wipe dry. Then take another fresh towel and spritz Eraser directly on the towel and wipe that section again.

That's Mike P's double wipe clean method and it works for me.

Now, while this method is used for pre coating applications it works well for any LSP.
 
Paul A. said:
If you're happy with the results after polishing finish the whole vehicle. Then..

Spray Eraser on each section until it just begins to run and with a clean, short nap MF towel wipe dry. Then take another fresh towel and spritz Eraser directly on the towel and wipe that section again.

That's Mike P's double wipe clean method and it works for me.

Now, while this method is used for pre coating applications it works well for any LSP.
Click to expand...


thanks! ill give that a go tomorrow, by the way how can one tell the difference between oil holograms or micro marring?
 
I would assume when wiping again with a towel, you could then see the difference of oil holograms, or actual micro marring in the paint.

And which while on the subject of polish oils, and in particular of Meguiars #205.

Now Meguiars makes claim that products from their Mirror Glaze line, such as #205 is safe to use in a body-paint shop environment?

Now if this is true, and this product has no ill effects upon bonding of paint, body repair products, or other maladies common with products containing silicone, and producing things like "Fisheye", then with that said, why would one then have to even use some prep product before any coating, or other LSP?

Maybe dumb questions, but I had this debate with another local detailer about a week ago about the presence of "oils" in Meg's products as well as other polishes.
 
@OP:
Are you going to be applying
a ‘Coating’ to the vehicle?


IMO:
Unless you are going to be applying a
Coating; or, applying an LSP that actually
calls for a “squeaky clean” surface before
it’s applied; then there really is no reason
to remove the polishing oils via Eraser or
any other type of panel-wipe.



Bob
 
FUNX650 said:
@OP:
Are you going to be applying
a ‘Coating’ to the vehicle?


IMO:
Unless you are going to be applying a
Coating; or, applying an LSP that actually
calls for a “squeaky clean” surface before
it’s applied; then there really is no reason
to remove the polishing oils via Eraser or
any other type of panel-wipe.



Bob
Click to expand...

hey, yes i am going to coat the car in cquk, i'm planning on doing eraser to prepare the panel and then use carpro essence, wait 3 hours and go straight to coating. i do not use any panel wipes when i'm planning on using wax, however i do think its neccesary when going for a sealant or coating.

i'm just really curious why i can't use an ipa without any issues occuring its really frustrating!

thanks!:xyxthumbs:
 
kodakdave said:
hey, yes i am going to coat the car in cquk, i'm planning on doing eraser to prepare the panel and then use carpro essence, wait 3 hours and go straight to coating. i do not use any panel wipes when i'm planning on using wax, however i do think its neccesary when going for a sealant or coating.

i'm just really curious why i can't use an ipa without any issues occuring its really frustrating!

thanks!:xyxthumbs:
Click to expand...

I would still recommend doing a light prep wipe even with essence after 3 hours. This is more of an insurance policy to make sure it's polishing oils are completely gone. Plus it helps in removing any light dust that may have built up on the surface.

I have gone 24 hours and still prep wipe Eseence just to be sure.
 
kodakdave said:
hey, yes i am going to coat the car in cquk, i'm planning on doing eraser to prepare the panel and then use carpro essence, wait 3 hours and go straight to coating. i do not use any panel wipes when i'm planning on using wax, however i do think its neccesary when going for a sealant or coating.

i'm just really curious why i can't use an ipa without any issues occuring its really frustrating!

thanks!:xyxthumbs:
Click to expand...

Not trying to monkey wrench your processes which you chose, as I, or we cannot personally witness whether Meguiars 205 would've been necessary, or sort of redundant since you were also going to use Carpro Essence?

That dependent upon paint condition, Essence might've possibly been the only polish/prep product you would have needed? Just a thought I had?
 
MarkD51 said:
Not trying to monkey wrench your processes which you chose, as I, or we cannot personally witness whether Meguiars 205 would've been necessary, or sort of redundant since you were also going to use Carpro Essence?

That dependent upon paint condition, Essence might've possibly been the only polish/prep product you would have needed? Just a thought I had?
Click to expand...

yeah thats a good point sorry to not inform enough, essence alone barely cuts away swirls so i had to use a different approach.
i'm don't even know whats going to happen if i wipe essence off with eraser, ill give it ago today and let u guys know :)
 
No reason to use 205 and essence. Eraser is not necessarily going to remove all the oils in 1 shot.
 
kodakdave said:
yeah thats a good point sorry to not inform enough, essence alone barely cuts away swirls so i had to use a different approach.
i'm don't even know whats going to happen if i wipe essence off with eraser, ill give it ago today and let u guys know :)
Click to expand...

I see. I reckon the general consensus will usually be to use the products and processes that produce the results a detailer is after, (test spots) to use the least aggressive products and techniques, and hopefully the least amount of time/work to attain desired results.

As an example, I was once prepping my Tahoe for CQUK Coating, I chose Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover, and while the product did an absolutely magnificent job on virtually 99.5% of the vehicle, under very close examination I had still seen a few very light RIDS (Random Isolated Deep Scratches) on the Hood that TSR would not remove.

Whipped out a bottle of Wolfgang Uber Compound I had on hand, and with the same LC White Flat Pads re-did the Hood only where it was needed, then TSR again, the RIDS were gone.

With Eraser as the final step, I had no problems of any oiliness-etc after, Coating went on like a dream.
 
MarkD51 said:
I see. I reckon the general consensus will usually be to use the products and processes that produce the results a detailer is after, (test spots) to use the least aggressive products and techniques, and hopefully the least amount of time/work to attain desired results.

As an example, I was once prepping my Tahoe for CQUK Coating, I chose Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover, and while the product did an absolutely magnificent job on virtually 99.5% of the vehicle, under very close examination I had still seen a few very light RIDS (Random Isolated Deep Scratches) on the Hood that TSR would not remove.

Whipped out a bottle of Wolfgang Uber Compound I had on hand, and with the same LC White Flat Pads re-did the Hood only where it was needed, then TSR again, the RIDS were gone.

With Eraser as the final step, I had no problems of any oiliness-etc after, Coating went on like a dream.
Click to expand...


Nice! i did the same on a random deep scratch on my c pillar!

I have finished the car with Essence, i tried a test wipe with a damp MF and eraser, its very slippery compared to other polishes it seems, no marring no nothing, i'm gonna go over the car with the damp mf and ill post a picture once the coating is on :)
thanks!
 
finished the car with essence and cquk, unfortunately my reload bottle nozzle was broken so i had a heavy application and have some residue here and there :) nothing that won't wash away next week hopefully.

I was looking into a drying aid for this coating, i was thinking ech20 dilluted 1:20 and spray some on a damp mf to dry off the car. as i'm aware it was very mar sensitive.

Thanks!
 
Mix in 3 ounces of Reload to your ECH2O mixture to create a super quick detailer (32 ounce bottle).
 
kodakdave said:
finished the car with essence and cquk, unfortunately my reload bottle nozzle was broken so i had a heavy application and have some residue here and there :) nothing that won't wash away next week hopefully.

I was looking into a drying aid for this coating, i was thinking ech20 dilluted 1:20 and spray some on a damp mf to dry off the car. as i'm aware it was very mar sensitive.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Ech20 at 1:20 is an excellent drying aid. It also won't mask the hydrophobic properties that much like Reload does. Not that Reload is a bad product. I use Ech20 at 1:20 on just about every coating as a drying aid be it a 2 bucket wash or rinseless wash.
 
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