Polishing the truck I just purchased

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slapjack

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I have a few questions about detailing a Black 2015 Silverado I just bought.
1. I bought it a month ago and it is winter here in NY so I am sure I am going to find spots that can use some touching up once spring rolls around. From what I can see now there a couple light scuffs and scratches. I was thinking about using 3D Speed to do a one step polish. Would that be a good product/process to use on a 2.5 - 3 yr old vehicle?

2. There was a spot that had a drop of dried on concrete on the fender that the dealer couldn't get off without damaging the paint so they repainted the fender. Is it ok to polish that fender and use ironX on it since it will have been just painted 5 months previous?

3. What steps should I do before and after doing the one step polish? I am still debating if I will do a ceramic coating or just a sealant topped with wax, so wasn't sure if I need to use ironX before claying or if claying will be good enough. Also, do I need to wipe down with an IPA after polishing, before adding the sealant/wax?

4.The truck was waxed at the dealer. Should I just wash with regular shampoo or should I use something like Meguiars wash plus to remove that wax before polishing?

5. There is a spot that has some what looks to be green paint transfer (about a 1/2" wide section maybe 4" long on a narrow section of the rear bumper where the corner step is). Will using the 3D speed with the DA take that off? or should I do something to remove that by hand so it doesn't get into the pad?

6. I can just spot polish if the whole truck doesn't need it right? For example if there is a scratch in the middle of the door can I just go over that small area or should you really do the whole panel? I am totally new to polishing if you can't tell. lol. I just didn't know if it would be obvious that that spot was polished and not the rest of the door.

7. I have seen a couple youtube videos where people are claiming that the Harbor freight DA is just as good of a polisher as the PC 7424. Any experience with the HF DA?
 
First off, welcome to AGO and congrats on the new truck!

HD Speed gets rave reviews (personally never used it), and you would be fine with Iron-x and HD speed on that 5 month old fender. Usually body shops say wait about 30 days before applying any sort of topper on fresh paint.

Something to consider, if you do go with a paint coating, you won't want to use a AIO like speed. AIO and "one step" polishes are actually different in that AIO's contain a LSP whereas one step polishes do not. Something like carpro essence would be a great polish/prep for a coating that will provide medium correction (on the right pad) and also finish quite nice. Essence also lays SiO2 onto the surface that helps with coatings bonding to it.

Washing and decontamination can be handled a number of ways- clay and Iron-x sound like a good place to start. Also consider a quality car wash soap- Carpro reset is a great shampoo that is also very coating friendly (if you went that route).

As far as a great entry level DA, IMO spend the extra few bucks and get a Griots Garage 6" DA and a set of pads. Lifetime warranty and much better than the HF special. You can find them on AG from time to time included in the discount codes too!
 
X2 on the Griots. For a few bucks more you get much better warranty & great customer service.
 
What is LSP?
Ok so essence one step if doing a coating... noted

What is my best option for product to do a 1 step correction? Maybe I’m looking at the wrong product but essence looks like a AIO product too? Trying to find a good one step product that isn’t just fillers. I want to actually remove defects not just fill them in.
Also what would be a good compound/polish combo for 2 step?

Most likely I will decide to just do a sealant or wax instead of a coating. So going on top of essence one step with a sealant or wax or both would be fine? Would I just simply hand buff all residual compound off before applying sealant or should I use IPA Over the whole car?

is this process good if I just want to do a one step?
Wash/dry. What soap should I use to strip old wax coating before polishing?
Iron x
Clay bar or clay mit
Re-Rinse and dry
Buff with one step or 2 step correction
IPA wipe down
Then apply sealant or wax or both

Which would be best option for me? GG 6” DA, Porter Cable 7424? I was also looking at the Torq10FX that they use in a lot of the chemical guys videos. They are all around $120-$150 options. Can I add a 5” lake country backing plate on the GG machine?

How many pads will be needed to do a whole truck if doing one step? And how do I clean the foam pad as I’m working so it doesn’t get clogged up?
Also if doing essence would I want to use an orange pad with med/light cutting ability or a white polishing pad?

What other General advice do yo have for me? I can say I am pretty scared about doing the polishing on my new truck. I just feel like I’m going to scratch the crap out of it even tho I know that’s not the case. Lol. About how long would say doing a full size pickup would take with a one step?
 
LSP= Last step product- refers to a wax, sealant or coating that will provide protection from the elements (compounds and polishes do not).

Essence is a super unique product in that it truly corrects, polishes and preps (for paint coatings) with a layer of SiO2 (also the predominant ingredient in most coatings). Also, upon removing it, you don't need to further "prep" the surface with an IPA or prep solvent. While many people use Essence as an AIO, it is also great because of its coating prep characteristics.

Venturing into 2-steps opens up a world of possibilities- tons of products that do a great job. Depending on the defects, a single polishing step may get the surface acceptable to your standards. If you aren't coating, take a look at the RUPES UHS pads and liquid.

After polishing, give everything a good IPA wipe down- this will remove the residual polishing oils leftover from the polishing step.

I'd stick with the GG6- but like anything, polishers are a choice of personal preference. The GG6 will fit a 5" plate- standard 5/16" (?) threads. I actually have mine working as a "mini" with a 3" backing plate- works well for that too!

You will want a handful of pads. Typically 4-6 of each (compounding and polishing).

With a 8mm standard DA (Like the GG6), there is little to worry about- stay off the sharp edges and keep the pad flat- lots of great general info on here if you read, read, read! They're very easy machines to control although they do vibrate your hands to pieces!

Time expectations will vary greatly on you getting the results you're after. Take your time and take breaks to inspect your work. I think all in all, you'll enjoy the process and be thrilled you accomplished the work yourself!
 
B5visser said:
LSP= Last step product- refers to a wax, sealant or coating that will provide protection from the elements (compounds and polishes do not).

Essence is a super unique product in that it truly corrects, polishes and preps (for paint coatings) with a layer of SiO2 (also the predominant ingredient in most coatings). Also, upon removing it, you don't need to further "prep" the surface with an IPA or prep solvent. While many people use Essence as an AIO, it is also great because of its coating prep characteristics.

Venturing into 2-steps opens up a world of possibilities- tons of products that do a great job. Depending on the defects, a single polishing step may get the surface acceptable to your standards. If you aren't coating, take a look at the RUPES UHS pads and liquid.

After polishing, give everything a good IPA wipe down- this will remove the residual polishing oils leftover from the polishing step.

I'd stick with the GG6- but like anything, polishers are a choice of personal preference. The GG6 will fit a 5" plate- standard 5/16" (?) threads. I actually have mine working as a "mini" with a 3" backing plate- works well for that too!

You will want a handful of pads. Typically 4-6 of each (compounding and polishing).

With a 8mm standard DA (Like the GG6), there is little to worry about- stay off the sharp edges and keep the pad flat- lots of great general info on here if you read, read, read! They're very easy machines to control although they do vibrate your hands to pieces!

Time expectations will vary greatly on you getting the results you're after. Take your time and take breaks to inspect your work. I think all in all, you'll enjoy the process and be thrilled you accomplished the work yourself!
Click to expand...

Thank you for the reply. Does CarPro essence have fillers in it? I was kind of thinking I wanted something that wasn’t really an aio product but a one step correction where it corrects light scratches and swirls and also polishes and then I can add jescar power lock plus sealant or Collinite 845 after. I’m just having a hard time determining what product would be good for that. I’m thinking I would start with a one step product like mentioned with an orange med cutting pad and see how it looks then if needed use an actual polish then apply a sealant/wax. So if someone could recommend a good one stepthat doesn’t have fillers in it or leave a protection layer behind and also a good separate polish that would be great. The truck is a 2015 so it shouldn’t be too too bad. Hopefully anyways. It’s winter so it is hard to tell right now.

What are some good products that will correct the paint and then leave protection behind (like essence) but that won’t have fillers in it? I want to actually correct the scratches not just fill them in. I guess leaving the protection layer behind might be nice on my wife’s car cause I don’t want to spend as much time on that

Is duplicolor wax and grease remover or rustoleum wax and tar remover ok products to use for an ipa? Or should I just mix half a bottle of water and half isopropyl alcohol?
 
slapjack said:
I was kind of thinking I wanted something that wasn’t really an aio product but a one step correction where it corrects light scratches and swirls and also polishes and then I can add jescar power lock plus sealant or Collinite 845 after. I’m just having a hard time determining what product would be good for that. I’m thinking I would start with a one step product like mentioned with an orange med cutting pad and see how it looks then if needed use an actual polish then apply a sealant/wax. So if someone could recommend a good one stepthat doesn’t have fillers in it or leave a protection layer behind and also a good separate polish that would be great.
Click to expand...

Griots Garage Boss Correcting Cream. It’s all you’ll need. After that just simply apply your Powerlock or Collinite.

P.s. Don’t forget to claybar your paint 1st.
 
Eldorado2k said:
It’s not just as good, it’s actually better...
Click to expand...

What did you mean by the above statement? What is better?

Eldorado2k said:
Griots Garage Boss Correcting Cream. It’s all you’ll need. After that just simply apply your Powerlock or Collinite.

P.s. Don’t forget to claybar your paint 1st.
Click to expand...

Sweet... thanks Man. I did hear about the correcting cream before and I just must have forgot about it. There are so many products to chose from as you keep reading your like oh I’ll try that then another article mentions some other product and you kind of forget about the first one. Lol. But ya I’ll deff do a wash the. Clay then use the GG correcting cream then ipa wipe down and sealant. Should I use ironX before claying?

What pad would I want to use with Gg correcting cream? Like I said I don’t know how the paint is yet cause it is still shitty weather here but it’s black and it’s 3 yrs old so I’m sure it’s going to have scratches. Will an orange cutting pad remove the scratches and still finish with good shine?

Was also wondering about clay products. I hear 3m perfect it is the best with Meguiar a professional being a close 2nd. I want to try not scratching as much as possible. I also read sonus ultra fine clay is good and doesn’t scratch at all.

I was goin go to use CarPro immolube for the lubricant but was kinda thinking maybe I should get a detail spray or something so it cuts down on the number of products I have to buy. So I could use it for a lube and also as a detail spray. Or can you use immolube as a detail spray too?
 
slapjack said:
What did you mean by the above statement? What is better?



Sweet... thanks Man. I did hear about the correcting cream before and I just must have forgot about it. There are so many products to chose from as you keep reading your like oh I’ll try that then another article mentions some other product and you kind of forget about the first one. Lol. But ya I’ll deff do a wash the. Clay then use the GG correcting cream.
After that like I mentioned I was looking at using the Collinite 845 or Powerlock +. Those are both sealants right? So they can both be topped with a Carnauba to get a better shine? I’ve never used a sealant before so I don’t know how the gloss is on them but for my daily driver do I really need to top it? I mean a sealant isnt going to dull the shine right? It’s just you would want to top it with Carnauba for that extra little bit of shine like if you had a show car or something?
Click to expand...

My 1st comment was referring to that polisher you were comparing to the Porter Cable. That 1 you mentioned is actually better than the Porter Cable. It sounds like you know about getting a 5” Lake Country backing plate and pads so you’re on the right track.

Just a reminder: There’s Fast Correcting Cream and Correcting Cream. They’re both great and IME both of them finish down without having to do anything else for the most part... But unless your swirls are heavy stick with the regular Correcting Cream because it’s more than capable on most factory paint. That way you don’t go overkill for no reason.

As far as Colinite and Powerlock, I’ve never used those 2 but off the top of my head I believe the Colinite is a wax because it contains carnauba but it doesn’t go limp like most waxes and instead has the longevity of a strong sealant. I’m pretty sure Powerlock is a sealant.

I wouldn’t bother topping either 1 with a wax. It’s just unnecessary and IMO you’ll take away from the longevity of the sealants protection for minimal gain on looks. Sealants look good.
 
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