Polishing White, Dry-Erase Board

J

Jbirk

New member
Joined
Apr 2, 2015
Messages
74
Reaction score
0
Good Evening....

Question... I have a rather large dry erase board in my office at work and it is terrible... Simply put it does NOT erase even one-minute after writing something on it without a ton of ghosting and leaving marks.

My crazy thought is since it is an obvious, cheap melamine (i.e. painted) board it could in theory be polished right?

I mean, if I polish it to a clean/glossy surface that is completely non-porous, would it not work like new again?


It is just a thought... Let me know what you think and what products to use.
 
I have literally thought about this all day in school. Please try it!!
 
You should try it out for the gang. :)

My white board at work does the exact same thing.
 
I use a magic eraser with lots of summertime windshield washer fluid (bug wash). Wipe with microfiber. Takes off marker that has been on for years in the sun.
 
I have a old whiteboard in my office. Ipa usually takes off everything then I follow up with 303 speed detailer. It seems to erase easy for a while but eventually needs another ipa wipe down.

A good coat of collinte might be my next experiment.
 
Okay, I got an answer to this thread for all of you folks after five (5) years...

Now that I work from home and have nothing but a TON of time, I finally got around to trying to polish a dry erase board. It completely cleans up staining of dry erase markers, BUT the cheap melamine boards stain because they are not chemically resistant to the dry erase markers. A freshly polished board simply does not help much because the paint they use is not up to muster.

The process was I sprayed the board down with glass cleaner then I sanded the board with 1000 grit Trizact on a DA using Final Inspection as my lubricant. I hand sanded the corners, Once complete, I wiped it off with a microfiber and distilled water.

I then masked it very well and used this clear coat, which is an automotive 2K clear. Yes I verified dry erase markers wipe off of car

csm_2K-Klarlack-Klarlacke-und-Spot-Blender_afa09c6a77.png


Next, I applied a thin coat followed by three normal coats, which I thought was enough, so I sprayed one more coat, then I sprayed a light coat. A LOT of clear.


After leaving it in the garage for a few days, I DA sanded wet at 1500 until no shiny spots (to knock down the peaks). Then I did the same at 2,000 and 3000. Since I had some 5,000 Trizact and could not help myself, I did that disk as well. Next, I used a heavy foam polishing pad (LC Yellow) and Menzerna Heavy Cut 400... Then a regular cutting pad (LC Orange) and the same compound. Then it was a polishing foam pad (LC white)and several passes Megs 205. Next I used the LC blue and Menzerna 3800.

I am leaving it in the garage for a few weeks, but in spot testing, it is not staining at all. It actually erases.


After finishing, I realized the board is slightly off-white it always has been. I now think, that perhaps I should have shot a bright-white paint before I did the clear...:D but I am going to leave it.
 
Jbirk said:
Good Evening....

Question... I have a rather large dry erase board in my office at work and it is terrible...

Simply put it does NOT erase even one-minute after writing something on it without a ton of ghosting and leaving marks.

My crazy thought is since it is an obvious, cheap melamine (i.e. painted) board it could in theory be polished right?

I mean, if I polish it to a clean/glossy surface that is completely non-porous, would it not work like new again?


Let me know what you think and what products to use.
Click to expand...


You are on the right track. Check this out,

How to machine clean a dry erase board by Mike Phillips



Machine_Cleaning_Dry_Erase_Board_003.JPG



Machine_Cleaning_Dry_Erase_Board_012.JPG




:D
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top