Porsche single stage red maintenance

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todd230

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Hello,
After a lot of research I have come up with a plan to maintain the paint on a new to me 86 carrera with original guards red paint. I thought I would run this by The forum to see if it can be improved before starting.

The car is in excellent shape but has been driven so its not a garage queen. It's always been covered and garaged for storage and hasn't been driven much in the past 2-3 years so while it looks great I don't think it has been clean/waxed during those 2-3 years.

I have a porter cable da and have achieved some really nice results on previous cars using meguires products and the porter cable.

My goals are to maintain the original paint at or above its current state with minimal impact on the coating thickness. The edges on a few surfaces have been cut to the primer but I don't see any thin spots on the larger surfaces.

Here is my current plan..

1) Wash and clay the car.
2) Hand apply meguires #7.
3) apply meguires #21 with a polishing pad and porter cable.

Thinking this might last a year as I drive the car on the weekends and its covered in the garage during the week. Probably wont drive it in sunlight during the hot months here in Phoenix.

Any input would be much appreciated. Thx, todd
 
Hi Todd,

Welcome to AutogeekOnline! :welcome:



todd230 said:
Hello,
After a lot of research I have come up with a plan to maintain the paint on a new to me 86 carrera with original guards red paint. I thought I would run this by The forum to see if it can be improved before starting.


My goals are to maintain the original paint at or above its current state with minimal impact on the coating thickness.

The edges on a few surfaces have been cut to the primer but I don't see any thin spots on the larger surfaces.
Click to expand...


Sounds like you're on the right track. Sometimes what I do is place a piece of painter's tape NEXT to any thin spots, not ON the thin spots just to be uber careful.

The tape is to be a visual reminder to avoid buffing or even rubbing by hand any place that's already thin.

If you haven't already, after you're all done polishing and waxing the car, take a Red Sharpie Marker and lightly apply a little red ink to any thin spots. It's not a perfect match but actually works pretty good plus it's fast and easy.




todd230 said:
Here is my current plan..

1) Wash and clay the car.
2) Hand apply meguires #7.
3) apply meguires #21 with a polishing pad and porter cable.
Click to expand...


That looks like a good and very gentle approach to this old single stage paint. Single stage paints tend to be much softer than clear coats, (except for white single stage paints), so you aways what to treat them carefully if the car in question is important to you.


Be sure to take some before and after pictures...



:)
 
Thanks Mike! I read your article about #7. Great read and good timing for me as I wasn't knowledgable about the oils and proper single stage work. Appreciate the feedback. Todd. Will post a few detailed pics shortly and follow with the finished work in a week or so.
 
M21 is not a bad product, pretty easy to use. However, on red, you might want to try Souveran. Now that its available in the small size its relatively affordable and there might not be a more pleasurable wax to use. It looks awesome on reds.
 
Last picture shows some of the road rash/pitting which I'm hoping might be smoothed out a bit with #7. That edge with the reflection isn't primer - but in general the front 12-18 inches of the car looks like that shot. Have thought about using the road rash kit available on your site, but want to get the paint protected as priority #1. One other question - all of the rubber looks really good, is there a product/procedure you can recommend? Will try the sharpie - thanks again.
 
thanks for the other feedback as well. will look into those - a bit of a forum junky so don't mind looking up info on other products. Only reason I stick with Mequires it previous work. #21 really worked nice and was easy to work with. I like that it might last a bit longer than non-synthetic and the shine was awesome.
 
The Wolfgang Exterior Trim Sealant is a very good product. I rub in really well usually with a small piece of terry cloth or microfiber I cut from a full size cloth. Rub and work it over the surface really well and then wipe off any excess.

Been very surprised at how well the black trim on my fiancé's Honda is both looking and how long it's lasting. Car is parked outside 24 by 7 days a week.


The #7 plus a soft microfiber applicator pad or folded microfiber towel may be aggressive enough to clean up that paint, if not you'll need and want an ultra fine cut or fine cut polish and use it very carefully.


Cool car, can't wait to see the after pictures...


:)
 
This Mustang has a clear coat but it came out pretty nice with M21...


Pictures & Videos: 2006 Mustang by Ford - Show Car Shine by Autogeek!


Brandons2006Mustang010.jpg


Brandons2006Mustang011.jpg




:)
 
very nice! Thanks for the quick replies.. will give the forum back to the other folks now :-) Happy Holidays.
 
Finally got my car done. Not the best pictures or lighting but it looks and feels nice. I used an industrial paint pen on the cut edges. Can hardly detect the difference in color. Gas filler door looks much better. Thanks for the help. I applied the glaze by hand and the 21 with the da. Might go over it again with #26 yellow wax in a week or two.

image by todd2302000, on Flickr

image by todd2302000, on Flickr

image by todd2302000, on Flickr

image by todd2302000, on Flickr
 
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