Porter Cable/Trizact Sanding Stripes

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KenRobertson

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Hi All,

Some quick background. I'm restoring a '68 Firebird and it was painted about 6 months ago (BC/CC). I'm totally new to wet sanding and picked up a Porter Cable 7424XP and the suite of the the 3M Trizact sanding disks (1500/3000/5000).

I started with my trunk lid and used the Trizact 1500 sanding disks and they worked awesome. I have basically no orange peels left and the scratches remaining are barely noticeable. What is noticeable are sanding marks that are left behind from the Trizact pads. They basically look like tiger stripes.

Is it normal to have these marks left behind? Is this something that will buff out? (I also have the Perfect-It compounds #1 and #2)

I've attached a couple of pics below. Thanks in advance for any advice.

--Ken
 
That looks normal, for the best results you now need to go over it with 3,000 grit then buff, polish, LSP.
The issue I have had on the past was the edges of the sand paper chipping for lack of a better word and putting curly scratches in the paint. Nothing a little more sanding won't take out, but you just have to have enough paint.
 
Yeah, refine them as much as possible, especially if you're gonna remove them with the PC.

I went to a friends house to polish a work truck cab, and his 70 Chevelle wagon. He decided to wet sand the wagon with his finest grade paper 1500. All I had with me was my first gen PC, and some foam pads!

I gave it the old college try though...
 
Yes that's normal.

Just compound with a wool pad and a rotary to remove the sanding marks. Follow this with a foam pad and any orbital polisher with a medium to fine cut polish for hologram free results.

Then after 30 days seal the paint with your favorite LSP


Now how about some pictures?


Also, since this was your first post to the forum...


Welcome to AutogeekOnline!


:welcome:
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
Yes that's normal.

Just compound with a wool pad and a rotary to remove the sanding marks. Follow this with a foam pad and any orbital polisher with a medium to fine cut polish for hologram free results.

Then after 30 days seal the paint with your favorite LSP


Now how about some pictures?


Also, since this was your first post to the forum...


Welcome to AutogeekOnline!


:welcome:
Click to expand...

Thanks for the feedback everyone. How critical is it that I run a wool pad with a rotary vs my PC7424XP? I'm really liking my PC and am not real keen to go purchase a rotary unless it's going to make a big difference. (been looking at the prices on these things).

Thanks again,
Ken
 
KenRobertson said:
Thanks for the feedback everyone.

How critical is it that I run a wool pad with a rotary vs my PC7424XP?


I'm really liking my PC and am not real keen to go purchase a rotary unless it's going to make a big difference. (been looking at the prices on these things).

Thanks again,
Ken
Click to expand...


You can try to remove your sanding marks using the Porter Cable. I've done it and I'm sure others have too. The best way would be using either a fiber pad, like a microfiber pad or using the new grey 5.5" ThinPro foam cutting pads which are sharper than a knife so i.e. great cutting.

5.5" SUPER THIN FOAM PAD OPTIONS for your Dual Action Polisher


Lake Country 5.5" ThinPro foam pads

watermark.php






As long as you finish out with #3000, #4000 or #5000 it should go okay until you get in and around,

Corners
Tight areas
Thin panels
Extreme curved panels both convex and concave
Edges

Basically your PC will be good for removing sanding marks on the major flat panels. Removing sanding marks is where a rotary with a wool pad excells. And by removing, I mean 100% removal.



:)
 
Thanks again for all this Mike, I'm learning lots here.

I had already ordered a couple of your wool pads for my PC so I'll give them a try.
So just to confirm, the order you would do things are as follows...

1 - Trizact 1500 pads
2 - Wool Pad with the Perfect-It #1 Compound
3 - Trizact 3000 pads
4 - Trizact 5000 pads
5 - Foam Pad with the Perfect-It #2 Compound
6 - Wait 30 days and then use Perfect-It #3 Compound

Am I on the right track?

Thanks,
Ken
 
I ordered 2 of the the LC-41-005 wool pads. I emailed your tech dept and they confirmed it would work fine with my PC.
If it won't could you see if my order has shipped? My order number is 1104725.

Thanks,
Ken
 
This is where the 3M perfect it system on a rotary shines.
 
KenRobertson said:
I ordered 2 of the the LC-41-005 wool pads. I emailed your tech dept and they confirmed it would work fine with my PC.
If it won't could you see if my order has shipped? My order number is 1104725.

Thanks,
Ken
Click to expand...


Hi Ken,

I checked after you made the above post and "yes" your order has already shipped.

I just tested the LC-41-005 pad on a Porter Cable and I was able to maintain pad rotation. Just use the 6 speed setting and mark the back of your backing plate to make it easier for your eyes to monitor pad rotation.


Mark Your Backing Plate - Makes it easy to see Pad Rotation



With this combo you should be able to remove your sanding marks but my guess is it won't be as fast as using a rotary buffer.


:)
 
i would not use a wool pad on the porter cable, i would use the lake country thin pad, i would use the wool pad on a rotary to remove your sanding marks... the follow up with the porter cable and the foam thin pad with the polish to make that paint really pop !!!! hope this helps and welcome to the AUTOGEEK forum :)
 
or re sand finer with 5000 grit the you might just be able to use the foam pads
 
Thanks again for all the feedback. I'll have wait on the wool pads and give them a test. In the mean time I've also been looking at the Lake Country 5 1/2 Inch Thin Foamed Wool Pads (LC-58-1255B). The reviews that these are getting with the PC are really good. Anyone know how the cutting of these pads would compare to the Lake Country Grey ThinPro pad?

--Ken
 
KenRobertson said:
I've also been looking at the Lake Country 5 1/2 Inch Thin Foamed Wool Pads (LC-58-1255B).

The reviews that these are getting with the PC are really good.

Anyone know how the cutting of these pads would compare to the Lake Country Grey ThinPro pad?

--Ken
Click to expand...


I think the cut would be close. Fibers are a type of abrasive so the THIN Purple Foamed Wool pads are going to give you good cutting action with a quality compound. The foam used to make the grey thin ThinPro pads is very dense and sharp. We used these pad to remove some etched in water spots on a 1955 Chevy with what I would consider hard paint.

I would give the Purple Foamed Wool pads the edge simply because they're a fiber pad plus as foam becomes wet it softens up and you lose cut. The way around this is to have one pad per panel or more. Then as the pad becomes wet with product set it aside and switch to a fresh, dry pad.

After buffing out cars for years now I can tell you first hand, having lots of pads on hand for any detailing job that's important to you makes the process better in every way.


Here's an article I wrote about having plenty of pads...

How many pads do I need to buff out my car?




Here's the link to the full write-up for the 1955 Chevy





1955 Chevy Bel Air with a $15,000.00 Custom Paint Job - How to remove water spots

watermark.php




Here's the owner and his buddy Jay using the grey ThinPro pads on the 1955 Chevy for the initial cut.

watermark.php




I guess we could say it came out nice...

watermark.php


watermark.php
 
Hi Everyone,

I purchased the Lake Country 5 1/2 Inch Thin Foamed Wool Pads (LC-58-1255B) and tried them with the Perfect It #1 compound. I still can't seem to get a consistent shine even after following up with the Perfect It #2 compound and the thin Lake Country black foam pad.

It just seems for my particular paint job the PC just can't generate enough heat to blend in my Trizact 1500/3000/5000 sanding marks that are left behind. There are no scratches left behind only the trail marks left from the PC and the Trizact pads.

Below is a picture, it may be tough to see. To the left of the tape I have just compounded with (#1) and to the right I compounded and polished with (#2). The right has more shine definitely, but both sides still have area's that contain dull stripes.

At this point I'm feeling my only option is to go and get a rotary polisher unless anyone can shed any light on my issues.

Thanks for reading.


--Ken
 
Is the waiting 30 days for new paint to air or cure out? Factory paint wouldn't need this time right?
 
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