Powerlock or 845 on White Paint

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PRicci09

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Which would look better on white paint? Menzerna PL or Collinite 845 ?


Also curious which one you guys find sheets water better.
 
If it's pearl white with flakes, some would say PL.
I'll stay out of the LSP/looks debate.
 
Generally, waxes and sealants only show off the work you done before applying. If the paint is clean and swirl free, then just about any quality wax or sealant will bring out the gloss in the paint.
 
Do the "prep"...as AGO member eff has alluded to below:
eff said:
Generally, waxes and sealants only show off the work you done before applying.
If the paint is clean and swirl free, then just about any quality wax or sealant will bring out the gloss in the paint.
Click to expand...
Then read the following legendary-tutorial by AGO's Nick for all things Collinite #845! :props:

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...e-845-definitive-how-guide-legendary-wax.html


Be sure to enjoy your detailing...Then enjoy your gleaming ride.

:)

Bob
 
eff said:
Generally, waxes and sealants only show off the work you done before applying. If the paint is clean and swirl free, then just about any quality wax or sealant will bring out the gloss in the paint.
Click to expand...

I wish everyone would just realize this.
 
One is a sealant and one is a super durable wax--I don't think either are "cosmetic" LSP's. I've never used PL, but I'd wager they will look the same on the car.

As for sheeting/beading, #845 beads/sheets like crazy.
 
I agree with those who say prep is most important, but refering to paint protection I find Powerlock works best as far as lasting protection and appearence on my white pearl paint. Of course that's just my opinion on my car.
 
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PRicci09 said:
Which would look better on white paint? Menzerna PL or Collinite 845 ?


Also curious which one you guys find sheets water better.
Click to expand...


I prefer Klasse Sealant. I did my wifes white Altima in June with Powerlock and it didn't hold up real well down here in Florida. I stripped the hood and put Klasse on it a month ago and this was the beading on Saturday. Been maintaining it once a week with Sonus Acylic Spray.

 
My preference is Col 845, because it's just hard to beat.
 
Since the look will be about the same with either, I would definatelly go with PowerLock for ease of application. Just wipe on and wipe off. For Collinite you need to take an Advanced class to apply it ;) I was about to buy some a few weeks back then I started reading about having to heat it up to the right temperature or bagging it on tables until it reached the right consistency... who the heck has time to do that? ;)
 
Calendyr said:
Since the look will be about the same with either, I would definatelly go with PowerLock for ease of application. Just wipe on and wipe off. For Collinite you need to take an Advanced class to apply it ;) I was about to buy some a few weeks back then I started reading about having to heat it up to the right temperature or bagging it on tables until it reached the right consistency... who the heck has time to do that? ;)
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845 isn't hard to apply at all. Just don't cake it on and stick it in a bucket of warm water or put it in the sun while you wash the car.
Who has time to wait 12 hours for power lock to cure? Not me.
 
CDot said:
One is a sealant and one is a super durable wax--I don't think either are "cosmetic" LSP's. I've never used PL, but I'd wager they will look the same on the car.

As for sheeting/beading, #845 beads/sheets like crazy.
Click to expand...

Nope, as I understand it, Colly 845 is a hybrid, both a sealant and wax.

I've used both on my white Tahoe. An ultra hard pick!
Both are outstanding.
 
Calendyr said:
Since the look will be about the same with either, I would definatelly go with PowerLock for ease of application. Just wipe on and wipe off. For Collinite you need to take an Advanced class to apply it ;) I was about to buy some a few weeks back then I started reading about having to heat it up to the right temperature or bagging it on tables until it reached the right consistency... who the heck has time to do that? ;)
Click to expand...

yea 845 was a pain for me using it. Good thing i got it as a freebie and didnt waste money on it. Ended up trading it so thats the end of that
 
845 is really easy to get prepped if you follow the instructions that Nick has provided. Honestly, it only takes a few minutes and you're good to go. Super easy application as well. Great durability.

Having said that, I actually prefer PL. I've used both 845 and PL on the same vehicles and I prefer the look that PL provided on both. Same easy application and I get the same durability from both, about 4-6 months on my DD (metallic silver, lives outside 24/7) and 6+ months on of my wifes DD (metallic grey, garaged at home and at work with 10 minute commute each way).

My preference is PL, but you really can't go wrong with either.
 
Seriously if you have trouble waxing with 845 then detailing cars may just be too challenging.

Granted with a new bottle you have to put it in warm water to fully mix it, but it's a one time thing. It doesn't get any easier than put a few drops on a pad and machine apply thin. Then just mf wipe it off.

How on earth could that be hard?

PL is good too if you have the time for it to cure.

There is no way I'd wait 6 months to rewax but I gues it depends on your climate and use of the vehicle.

YMMV and most likely does.

PS; For white paint I prefer Duragloss 105 w/ 601 (bonding agent)
 
I have used both also, and in my experience Powerlock had awful durability, like that of a wax. I didn't like it, but it did look good on a Super White Camry I did. Collinite is the way to go for durability. I'll reiterate what everyone has said: Properly prepped paint will look fantastic with any product.

You should also consider Sonax Polymer Netshield, it's been getting fantastic reviews on gloss and beading action.
 
I think most of the people who have issues with #845 aren't consciously remembering that "less is more" and that it needs/is supposed to be pretty liquid-y when you use it.

Putting it in a bucket of warm water--if you even need to--takes a min or two max. I store mine in my laundry room so it doesn't get exposed to the temp changes throughout the year and it stays in liquid form. I can't comment on PL, but you can do no wrong with #845 if you use it correctly. I got roughly 7 months out of it the first time I used it...SEVEN months.

Just make sure it's mixed well in liquid form and you use VERY LITTLE. I bought my bottle 4 years ago and it's only halfway gone.
 
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