Pre-Winter Detail and Protection

7PaintGuns

7PaintGuns

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Next weekend I will be doing what I call an 80% detail to my newly purchased CTS. Not only to add some protection for the winter, but to also get a good idea of what I will need to do in the spring as far as my "100%" detail. I already plan to re-spray the front end and have quite a few scratches on the 1/4's but I'm going to buff, polish and seal the entire car regardless of my spring intentions. My 80% process will include decon, clay bar surface, 3M Perfect It 3 part buff job, Wolfgang Paint Prep and Wolfgang Paint Sealant 3.0. I have a few questions...

1. What do I have to worry about as far as Iron-X application?
(covering calipers and rotors, chrome trim, plastic trim etc...)

2. How many coats of WGS 3.0 should or can I apply?

3. Can I apply Collinite 845 over top of WGS 3.0? How soon after 3.0 application
and how many coats should I use? Should I even bother?

4. Are window polishes/treatments so much better than a few coats of Rain-X?

I'm sure I will think of a few more questions by next Saturday. Thanks in advance!
 
7PaintGuns said:
Next weekend I will be doing what I call an 80% detail to my newly purchased CTS. Not only to add some protection for the winter, but to also get a good idea of what I will need to do in the spring as far as my "100%" detail. I already plan to re-spray the front end and have quite a few scratches on the 1/4's but I'm going to buff, polish and seal the entire car regardless of my spring intentions. My 80% process will include decon, clay bar surface, 3M Perfect It 3 part buff job, Wolfgang Paint Prep and Wolfgang Paint Sealant 3.0. I have a few questions...

1. What do I have to worry about as far as Iron-X application?
(covering calipers and rotors, chrome trim, plastic trim etc...)

2. How many coats of WGS 3.0 should or can I apply?

3. Can I apply Collinite 845 over top of WGS 3.0? How soon after 3.0 application
and how many coats should I use? Should I even bother?

4. Are window polishes/treatments so much better than a few coats of Rain-X?

I'm sure I will think of a few more questions by next Saturday. Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...

1.) As long as you read the instructions you should be fine. Unless you're spraying willy nilly there should be no reason you get it on the brakes. The trim on the CTS and XTS is plastic with a brush chrome trim.

2.) I have never done multiple coats of anything. Today's products are designed to apply and wipe. Moreover today's clearcoats are designed for a high resin shine for the 95% of the population that thinks a drive through car-wash, once a year, is good enough. It has been my experience on newer GM vehicles, especially with metallic flake, that the clear-coat is extremely hard.

There is a point of diminishing return where over application can actually lead to nothing except wasting your time and money. Also, WG Paint Sealant requires 12 hours to cure (with no exposure to water).

With that said, I don't see the necessity to add 845. I think you will hit the point of diminished return, considering WGPS 3.0 seems to fit the bill.

"Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0 replicates the best qualities of carnauba wax – slickness and shine – but it has more than double the longevity of the average carnauba wax. Just a few drops will produce a show-stealing shine that withstands the elements, ultraviolet rays, infrared radiation, salt water, and environmental pollutants and armors your paint for months."

For the black pillars between the F & R doors, I suggest CQuartz D-Lux coating, however, I see you have the coupe. Lastly, I didn't think Caddy owners detailed their own cars?? :-)

Regarding the bumper cover, why not try the repair yourself?
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...er-repair-wet-sand-m105-205-dr-colorchip.html
 
1- The smell:). Not much just make sure your thoroughly rinse. It shouldn't harm any of the mentioned.

2-I've read the the 2nd application will really make it pop. I could be thinking of another product though.

3- Not sure on the wait time but I think it's 12hrs. It shouldn't hurt but probably isn't necessary.

4- Rainx isn't bad but there are more durable products. CarPro FlyBy30 is one that claims the last up to 8 months.

Note: I have little to no experience with any of the products, just info I have read here
 
#2- I think I was thinking of KSG, I didn't see much on WGS.
 
1.)
Just to be sure there's no unknown/unseen damages:

I endeavor to practice due diligence to not ever spray
IronX (or any of the very similar products) on any
braking components. As such: I always remove the
tire/wheel assemblies, if I want to remove any of the
iron decontaminates, that they may have accumulated.


2.)
One coat of WDGPS should suffice.
Two coats? Usually assures "complete" coverage.
Note:
Allow 12-24 hours cure-time between coats.


3.)
As a personal choice:
I hardly ever bother applying Collinite #845
over top of WDGPS. YMMV.


4.)
Except for cleaning products:
I don't use any auto-glass "treatments".
Again:
It's just a personal choice.


Bob
 
1. What do I have to worry about as far as Iron-X application?
(covering calipers and rotors, chrome trim, plastic trim etc...)

Its safe as long as you do not have uncoated aluminum wheels or carbon ceramic brakes.


2. How many coats of WGS 3.0 should or can I apply?

Follow directions on bottle. I imagine you will have no issue double layering.

3. Can I apply Collinite 845 over top of WGS 3.0? How soon after 3.0 application
and how many coats should I use? Should I even bother?

If you feel the need, I would wait a week. Apply the WGS 3.0 and let cure for week. Do a wash after a week and apply. (Just my opinion)

4. Are window polishes/treatments so much better than a few coats of Rain-X?

It was easy to upsell window coating when i lived in Upstate NY. In a nutshell, they make it easier to remove snow and ice off windshield. I love CarPro Forte.
 
I agree with John on the window treatment. Makes snow and ice much easier to remove. I caught this on bogo. It's like rain ex on steroids.
autogeek_2269_48529395
 
How long do the two of these last? Rain-x usually lasts around 3 or 4 weeks for me but I also have a little of the additive in with my washer fluid.
 
Well! I am about 80% done with my 80% detail (thank god)! Started around 8:30 this morning and left the shop around 3:15-3:30pm. Thursday and Friday I washed, clayed and Iron-X'd so I wouldn't have to waste time doing it today.

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Started off with a quick wash and sanded every panel with 2000 grit paper. It seems as if the previous owner let rheir five year old touch up the vehicle so I blocked all of that down too. Followed 2000 with 3000 with a hard DA sander.

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Buffed in 4 steps.

1. 3M Perfect-It Low Linting 9 Inch Wool Pad - 33279
2. 3M Perfect-It Plus Foam Compounding Pad 8 inches - 05737
3. 3M Perfect-It Plus Foam Polishing Pad 8 inches - 05738
4. 3M Perfect-It Plus Ultrafina Foam Polishing Pad 8 inches - 05733

1. 3M Perfect-It EX Rubbing Compound 32 oz. - 36060
2. 3M Perfect-It 3000 Rubbing Compound 16 oz. - 39060
3. 3M Perfect-It 3000 Machine Polish Swirl Mark Remover 16 oz. - 39061
4. 3M Perfect-It 3000 Ultrafine Machine Polish 16 oz. - 39062


Here's a cringe photo for every one who masks meticulously!
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Came home and applied Wolfgang Perfekt Finish Paint Prep followed with Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant. Currently waiting the 45 mins to buff! Damn my back hurts!:buffing:Im the MAN
 
After my over night Wolfgang Sealen cure if have to say it's definitely worth the money! Actually got to see the car in the sun today. That sealen really adds a nice wet look. Done untill spring!
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It's great being prepared for winter, but wouldn't you have been better off saving the hard work and clear coat thickness to make it beautiful in the spring?
 
It was just a quick skim over with 2000. I couldn't stand to look at it anymore.
 
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