Prepping 1st Quartz Coating - What do I need to know?

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lowroller21

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Hi Gang,

First time poster but I've learned a lot here over the past few years.

This is my ride. Purchased new in October 2015 and has been hand washed by me ever since; first using two bucket technique, later graduated to rinseless washing (which was a game changer!). I chose Deep Impact Blue deliberately to step up my detailing game, as it is challenging to keep looking fresh!



And a shiny one!


I've done a full single stage mild polish with my DA twice since new, but am starting to collect some fine scratches despite my best efforts. Plus a larger scrape that somebody gave me at the airport... So I'm planning on doing a heavier cut this time, followed by a ceramic or quartz coating.

The plan was Wash>Dry>Clay>Rinse>Polish>Polish>Coat. But I'm seeing new products like the C7 or the nano mitt or spray for iron contamination and am starting to get confused as to what I should be using. So far I've used leftover Meguires products and wax that I had on hand but will be purchasing new supplies for this. I'm looking for the smoothest, glassiest, hardest, longest lasting finish possible.

Any suggestions for technique or materials would be appreciated!

 
One more because I can't help myself! It's tough to capture the micro scratches, but they are there.
 
I'm not normally a fan of blue cars, but that is one sweet color...

If you're going to do the whole "shebang" including polishing then you can be a little looser on your techniques with what you do to prep the car. The iron remover products work to chemically loosen embedded iron particles from the paint which makes claying a whole lot easier. If I were you, I would spray my iron remover on a dry car prior to washing it. Let it dwell for 5 minutes (without letting it dry on the surface, you can mist more iron remover or a light mist of water if it is starting to dry) then wash the car. After rinsing, there's no need to dry. Use more car wash soap as clay lube. I'm a fan of the speedy prep towels because if you drop them you can just rinse them off and go back to work. Rinse again and don't go nuts drying here because polishing will remove any light water spotting on the paint.

I'm not sure what you mean when you say you've done a mild polish with your DA. What polish did you use? In nomenclature used around here we typically mean a polish to be a product with a light abrasive suspended in a lubricating carrier liquid. To remove your fine scratches this is what you will need. I would look into products made by Menzerna, some of the most reliable polishes out there IMHO. Menzerna Medium Cut Polish 2500, one step polish, swirl remover, finishing polish, car polish, german car polish, menzerna polishing compounds, power This is super reliable for a one step polish that removes a good deal of defects and leaves the finish ready to wax or seal.

After the paint looks great it's ready to protect. Since you want longevity either a synthetic sealant or a coating is in order. I like the Blackfire stuff and on your color, this would be excellent BLACKFIRE Wet-Ice Over Fire Combo. It will easily last 6 months, possibly more. The sealant is super easy to put on. Blackfire makes a rinseless wash and a spray wax that are excellent for maintaining the paint. Good luck!
 
Appreciate the reply.

I don't recall the name of the product I used previously. But it was a mild stage 1 abrasive and did the trick so far, but I need something slightly more aggressive now so that 2500 looks like it might do the trick. That was followed each time with some liquid turtle wax I had leftover (I know, I'm still learning!)

I think I'd rather finish with a ceramic coating than a sealant and wax this time. I only get a chance to do the full meal deal once or twice a year, and its my daily so I'm looking for maximum protection and lasting shine.

One more question; I've got a few chips in the hood and was going to fill with Dr. Colorchip before this. One in particular is pretty big. Any tips on doing a good job on that before sealing it in?
 
And to add a little more info; I've been using Optimum Rinsless Wash and Wax, followed by Lucas Speedwax as my general car care. Or Meguire's Gold Class car wash shampoo if extra dirty. But I'm almost out of everything so now would be a good time to switch products if needed in order to unify the full protection package.

 
lowroller21 said:
Appreciate the reply.

I don't recall the name of the product I used previously. But it was a mild stage 1 abrasive and did the trick so far, but I need something slightly more aggressive now so that 2500 looks like it might do the trick. That was followed each time with some liquid turtle wax I had leftover (I know, I'm still learning!)

I think I'd rather finish with a ceramic coating than a sealant and wax this time. I only get a chance to do the full meal deal once or twice a year, and its my daily so I'm looking for maximum protection and lasting shine.

One more question; I've got a few chips in the hood and was going to fill with Dr. Colorchip before this. One in particular is pretty big. Any tips on doing a good job on that before sealing it in?
Click to expand...

The Dr. Colorchip is good stuff, you just have to do it a few times to get the hang of the system. The important thing is to place your touchup just outside the chip then smear it into the chip with your finger. Depending on the chip, I've had to do 2 or 3 "smears" to get it right. Flash time is important too. Leave it long enough that the touchup bonds to the chip but not so long that the excess is tough to remove. When using the Sealact solution, let the weight of the cloth do the work, don't rub vigorously or you can take the touchup right out of the chip.
 
Found a picture of the damage from the airport. Car was dirty but you can see the scuff marks that I want to get rid of:

 
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