Problem with Meg#7 glaze

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cadd

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Ok...I have heard great things about the Meg#7 glaze and figured I would try it out.
Dont know if I am doing something wrong or what, but it seems difficult to buff off. My MF towel just kinds of rolls up in my hand when I attempt to buff it off. I applied it with a grey pan on my PC. I didnt really work it in long, as the directions said not to let dry. Although I am pleased with the results after I finished, but just wondering if this is typical for a glaze?
 
Here's what Meguiar's says;

DIRECTIONS: For use in the shade on a cool surface. Do not apply to vinyl or rubber surfaces. Dispense product SPARINGLY onto a clean, dry, quality, 100% cotton terry cloth towel, foam applicator or polishing pad. Work one section at a time. Using light pressure, spread the product evenly over the surface. Do not allow product to dry. Use a clean towel to wipe dry and buff to a deep gloss finish.

Even though applied it with a DA polisher my guess is you still applied too much thus the reason for the difficult removal. What I've found is that through the years I as well as many others have wasted a ton of product applying it too thickly. I always apply glazes, sealants, and waxes with my DA polisher with a gray or blue pad.

The function of a glaze is to temporarily hide minor imperfections in the finish. I do work it in to ensure that I'm filling those defects then polish it off.
 
#7 is very oily, you apply it and rub it over the surface and then wipe it off.

I use a technique called,


Breaking open a coat of wax and then creeping out


Kind of a weird title but it's all I can come up with that describes what you do using this technique.

Hang tight and I'll write an article explaining and showing this technique and the post the link to this thread.

This will help you to remove #7 or any hard to remove coating...

:)
 
+1 to what BobbyG said. you probably just applied too much of the glaze. But by the way you described the micro fiber towel rolling up in you hand when buffing kinda sounds like you let the glaze dry too. When i use a glaze i try to keep each work area to a 2x2' section at the MAX! also someone correct me if im wrong, but i think its best to work #7 in by hand since the product dries faster when using a PC(more friction). If #7 just isn't working for you i would try 3M or PB black hole glazes.
 
Here you go... brand new article right off the pixel press...

How to break open a coating of wax and remove it by creeping out...




Note because #7 is so oily, the breaking open technique won't work very well unless you have a thin coating, but the creeping out part will...

Remember, #7 is not a wax or a paint sealant, it's a water soluble, non-abrasive pure polish, it acts to increase gloss by imparting wetness to the paint.

For single stage paints it will penetrate into the paint increasing the richness of color...

Just like you don't want to apply a thick coat of wax or paint sealant to a car's finish, you don't want to apply a thick coat of #7 or any pure polish or glaze to a car's finish, it just wastes product and makes removal difficult.



Lots of information on this product here,

The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints


Excerpt...

Mike Phillips said:
The Secret of Number Seven
There is a way to restore single stage paints that is non-abrasive and as gentle as you can get using a product that’s been around since early paints were formulated. That product is called Meguiar's Mirror Glaze #7 Show Car Glaze.

#7 Sealer Reseal Glaze = Show Car Glaze
Here’s a photo of a few bottles of #7 from my car wax collection. I have some older bottles from before WWII, but this picture shows the transition from when the name changed from Sealer and Reseal Glaze to Show Car Glaze.

800_M07Collection.jpg

(Click here for a larger picture)
Click to expand...



:)
 
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