product that does'nt bead?

octane

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so a guy that I've known for a couple of years now, just bought a new black mustang GT, and he want's me to work on it, but he doesn't want beading on it because it leaves water spots if not dried correctly. he really like that DP coating I put on his explorer 2 years ago (probably all gone a long time ago)

He's in is late 50s and owns a couple of NAPA stores, type of guy who probably thinks that Turtle wax is the only thing I use... so when I said most products will bead water, and will need to be dried off, he had that confussed look...

any products out there that offer good protection, and don't bead very well? lol, never thought I would be asking a question like this!

Feed back please
 
The chemical guys second skin coating was reported to sheet far more than it beads.

Look into that.
 
If I'm remembering correctly...

The Meguiar's Chemists...that originally
formulated Gold Class Wax...designed it:
to not bead water/to not bead water very well.


Bob
 
If I'm remembering correctly...

The Meguiar's Chemists...that originally formulated
Gold Class Wax...designed it:
to not bead water/to not bead water very well.


Bob


No sheet?
 
If I'm remembering correctly...

The Meguiar's Chemists...that originally
formulated Gold Class Wax...designed it:
to not bead water/to not bead water very well.


Bob


Thanks Bob! that's a good option for the price range!
 
You could actually toss in Meguiar's NXT/M21 or Ultimate Wax into the mix if you are looking for a sheeting sealant.
 
You're right, most products will be slightly hydrophobic and bead to some extent, even clean and decontaminated clearcoat won't be completely hydrophilic and will leave spotting if you're parked next to a hard water source or don't dry the car off after a wash.

I agree with aim4squirrels,Bob, and Guz - both Gold Class and CG SS6 have lackluster hydrophobic properties that I've seen. Meguiar's Ultimate Wax and their NXT 2.0 are more hydrophobic than Gold Class but their water beading isn't at the level of other products. Meguiar's Paint Protect and ICE Shine Lock Sealant also left me with lower hydrophobic levels compared to most other products I've tested so far. Wolfgang Fuzion is also not a very hydrophobic wax at all.
 
My new coat of Duragloss 111/601 is sheeting instead of beading. It does make it easier to dry.
 
Maybe it is time to teach that old dog how to properly dry a black car.
 
Maybe it is time to teach that old dog how to properly dry a black car.

I would be more into why is he scared of water spots? If the paint is properly protected and maintained, the water spots arent a threat to damaging the paint.

I am on the other side of the equation, I like maximum water beading. The slicker my paint is, the less water remains on it at all, and the less likely it will be to have any spots or residue. And after I wash my car, I sheet water over it, and because of the intense hydrophobic property of my LSP, the water just flies off my car and its 90% dry at that point.

thats just my preference. And I love to see the beads!
 
We see a lot of bad water spots here from reclaimed water sprinkler systems. Just nasty.
 
here's what you need


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Klasse glaze sealant glaze .Made to sheet not bead.Called AG rep after using product and getting no beading.That 's what he said and that's my experience.
 
I've yet to get a good answer on this conundrum......

If your water contains minerals, then regardless of whether or not your water beads or sheets, the minerals are present. Minerals don't just jump out of the water because it's sheeting on the surface. Assuming that water doesn't sheet off the car but rather sits on the car in a sheet as I typically see, then minerals are spread evenly over the surface rather than concentrated into beads. Now you have a layer of mineral deposit on the surface that can attack the paint evenly rather than in isolated spots.

To me, a sheeting affect only prevents the one result of mineral deposits that is readily visible, namely a ring; sheeting doesn't prevent the mineral deposit, as such, those mineral that are distributed evenly can etch the paint evenly, leaving a surface that is completely etched rather than isolated etching. It further creates a condition where you cannot see a mineral deposit by the contrast found the waterspot. In this scenario, you can't necessarily identify a mineral deposit to then make a determination if the mineral deposit needs to be removed.

I'm open to opinion on either side of the issue, but until I hear something very compelling, I'll take my beading.
 
I've yet to get a good answer on this conundrum......



If your water contains minerals, then regardless of whether or not your water beads or sheets, the minerals are present. Minerals don't just jump out of the water because it's sheeting on the surface. Assuming that water doesn't sheet off the car but rather sits on the car in a sheet as I typically see, then minerals are spread evenly over the surface rather than concentrated into beads. Now you have a layer of mineral deposit on the surface that can attack the paint evenly rather than in isolated spots.



To me, a sheeting affect only prevents the one result of mineral deposits that is readily visible, namely a ring; sheeting doesn't prevent the mineral deposit, as such, those mineral that are distributed evenly can etch the paint evenly, leaving a surface that is completely etched rather than isolated etching. It further creates a condition where you cannot see a mineral deposit by the contrast found the waterspot. In this scenario, you can't necessarily identify a mineral deposit to then make a determination if the mineral deposit needs to be removed.



I'm open to opinion on either side of the issue, but until I hear something very compelling, I'll take my beading.


If there is good sheeting on the car, most of the water will run off the car taking the minerals with it to the ground. There should be little to no minerals left on the car.
 
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