Proper Ceramic Coating Decontamination Process

[1ian20]

About 6 months ago, I coated my car with two coats of Ceramic Pro 9H and one coat of Ceramic Pro Topcoat. Over the course of the winter, I noticed that the hydrophobic properties of the coating simply degraded in some areas, notably on the roof, rear window, and trunk lid. I decided to conduct some testing today to see what might be the best product(s) to use to restore the beading. First, I washed the trunk lid and rear window using Maxi Suds II (I forgot my Hyper Wash at home) followed by a quick air dry. Then, I sprayed the surfaces with Meguiar's Wheel and Paint Iron Decon and let dwell for 5-7 minutes. After rinsing, a lot of the beading returned, but I still wanted to try a few more products to see how hydrophobic I could get it. I then used D101 diluted at 10:1 and Carpro Eraser as well. After using each product, I rinsed and then followed up with the wash mitt to remove any reside that may have been left over.

I have two questions regarding my process:

1. Would any of these products have degraded the coating in any significant way?

2. What is the proper procedure for decontaminating a coated vehicle?

I have read lots of conflicting information across the internet about this process. Some have said to use IronX and TarX, others have recommended using a foam cannon with APC. Either way, something has to be done to restore the beading, but I want to know what the safest way possible is. I have considered purchasing Carpro Reset, but I have read that the Meguiar's Wheel and Paint Iron Decon has a degreasing package, so I don't know how necessary that would be. It may be safer to use Carpro Reset though over an Iron remover.

 

[Goonie75]

Wait for Guz to reply... lol

Never used Ceramic Pro. Just Mohs/Skin, CarPro.... and CSL and Exo. Not downing it but not familiar.

Shouldn't need to do all that so soon into it. Poor initial application maybe ITO prep or missed spot?.... typically the beads or "hydrophobic" properties disappear before the actual coating so to speak.

This is why folks might use "toppers" to add different looks and rejuvenate those beading properties... doesn't mean the coating is gone per se.... the CSL/EXO combo i use is pretty solid and works best for my weather, etc.... I will use C2V3 at times but I know the ceramic is still there on my clients vehicle.

Hope that helps and good luck....

Ryan



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[1ian20]

Wait for Guz to reply... lol

Never used Ceramic Pro. Just Mohs/Skin, CarPro.... and CSL and Exo. Not downing it but not familiar.

Shouldn't need to do all that so soon into it. Poor initial application maybe ITO prep or missed spot?.... typically the beads or "hydrophobic" properties disappear before the actual coating so to speak.

This is why folks might use "toppers" to add different looks and rejuvenate those beading properties... doesn't mean the coating is gone per se.... the CSL/EXO combo i use is pretty solid and works best for my weather, etc.... I will use C2V3 at times but I know the ceramic is still there on my clients vehicle.

Hope that helps and good luck....

Ryan



Sent from my SM-G965U using Autogeekonline mobile app

At the shop I work at, we had a car in that had been coated around the same time and it was beading up like crazy. Maybe it had been garage kept whereas mine sits in the driveway. It's possible that I missed some areas, but the problem area is very large, and I made sure to use plenty of Eraser after cutting and polishing. Here's a few pictures of before and after the Decon wash I did.

View attachment 73173

View attachment 73172

 

[Goonie75]

At the shop I work at, we had a car in that had been coated around the same time and it was beading up like crazy. Maybe it had been garage kept whereas mine sits in the driveway. It's possible that I missed some areas, but the problem area is very large, and I made sure to use plenty of Eraser after cutting and polishing. Here's a few pictures of before and after the Decon wash I did.

View attachment 73173

View attachment 73172

Wonder if it was a bad batch or going bad?... wish I could help more. Perhaps just use a good topper for a bit like C2V3 or Gyeon Cure.... one could always repolish and apply again.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Autogeekonline mobile app

 

[Goonie75]

At the shop I work at, we had a car in that had been coated around the same time and it was beading up like crazy. Maybe it had been garage kept whereas mine sits in the driveway. It's possible that I missed some areas, but the problem area is very large, and I made sure to use plenty of Eraser after cutting and polishing. Here's a few pictures of before and after the Decon wash I did.

View attachment 73173

View attachment 73172

Mohs/Skin

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[Coatingsarecrack]

What worked beat for me is an Alkaline soap. My choice was Mckee’s coating prep soap.

I had CqUk3.0 and it resists up to ph14. I like Reset for maintenance washes but didn’t work as a decon wash for me like it did for others.

Washed, blew somewhat dry, then Iron X, rinsed then washed again and she was beading like new


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[1ian20]

Wonder if it was a bad batch or going bad?... wish I could help more. Perhaps just use a good topper for a bit like C2V3 or Gyeon Cure.... one could always repolish and apply again.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Autogeekonline mobile app

I plan on adding another layer of Topcoat just because it's fun haha. If push comes to shove, I may just strip it off and re-do it on the affected panels. It seems like the decon wash worked pretty well though, so I'll keep an eye on it. Thanks for the advice!

What worked beat for me is an Alkaline soap. My choice was Mckee’s coating prep soap.

I had CqUk3.0 and it resists up to ph14. I like Reset for maintenance washes but didn’t work as a decon wash for me like it did for others.

Washed, blew somewhat dry, then Iron X, rinsed then washed again and she was beading like new


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'll look into the McKee's soap, thanks! I have a bottle of IronX which I will test on the roof to see how it does against Meguiar's Iron Decon.

 

[The Guz]

What type of weather has this been driven in?

Does the paint feel rough to the touch?

 

[1ian20]

What type of weather has this been driven in?

Does the paint feel rough to the touch?

It was coated in December, so winter was just getting started. It's faced an onslaught of salt, below freezing temperatures, and all the other aspects of an Indiana winter. I did let the coating cure for about a week in the shop from what I can remember. Paint doesn't feel rough at all.

 

[The Guz]

It is more than likely clogged like most experience in harsher climates especially with snow. I am in Southern California so I don't have to worry about that being an issue. Budgetplan has a good method to decon his vehicles from the harsh snowy conditions. I can't recall his exact procedure.

I also have not used any ceramic pro coatings but I imagine they are like any other coating when it comes to a decon.

You would want to start off with a contact wash. Possibly a wash like McKee's as mentioned or CarPro Lift. I have not had to resort to this kind of aggressive soap. I have used Gtechniq W4 as part of a chemical decon. An iron remover is a good idea. I have heard some use tarx or even something like CarPro Spotless as its a weak acid as part of the wash process. I have used tarx before and it seemed to work ok. Finally ending up with a wash with something like CarPro Reset and applying the topper of choice.

 

[1ian20]

It is more than likely clogged like most experience in harsher climates especially with snow. I am in Southern California so I don't have to worry about that being an issue. Budgetplan has a good method to decon his vehicles from the harsh snowy conditions. I can't recall his exact procedure.

I also have not used any ceramic pro coatings but I imagine they are like any other coating when it comes to a decon.

You would want to start off with a contact wash. Possibly a wash like McKee's as mentioned or CarPro Lift. I have not had to resort to this kind of aggressive soap. I have used Gtechniq W4 as part of a chemical decon. An iron remover is a good idea. I have heard some use tarx or even something like CarPro Spotless as its a weak acid as part of the wash process. I have used tarx before and it seemed to work ok. Finally ending up with a wash with something like CarPro Reset and applying the topper of choice.

I'll have to place an order on Autogeek here soon so I can get started with that. Thanks for the help!