Quest for paint depth and gloss

[arcwcb]

I have a black Mustang that I'm looking for better depth and more gloss. I currently use a Griot's random orbital with Griot's polishes and pads, and use Blackfire Wet Diamond for protection. I'm looking at maybe going to a coating like cQuartz, Opti-Coat, etc (with the appropriate prep work), but I want to make sure I pick the one that will provide the best "wet" look. The car is not daily driven, and is garage kept, I just want the OEM paint to look the best it possibly can.

Also, only looking for products and ideas that I can do myself, I take my car to a lot of shows and I take pride in it's appearance. If I just take to somewhere to be professionally detailed, I feel like that takes the fun out of it.

Thanks!

 

[FUNX650]

Wanting to create a Show Car "finish",
for showing a vehicle at a Car Show...

•IMO:
-After washing, and other decontamination
processess, the polishing step(s) is/are what
will offer the most dramatic improvement in
the appearance of a vehicle.

-Afterwards, a Carnauba Wax as the
protection-product...followed by a Glaze
application---once the vehicle is at the
Car Show...will probably provide the most
depth and gloss for these types of events.



Bob

 

[AutowerxDetailing]

Assuming the paint is already fully corrected, this is the process that I've found to provide the best gloss enhancement:

1. CarPro Essence. You'll see your black paint get darker as you apply this product. Metallic flake also "pops" like crazy.
2. CQuartz x4 layers. Something happens after the 3rd layer, it's unmistakable. The surface will darken dramatically.
3. CarPro Reload for an additional gloss boost.

 

[2black1s]

Here's my opinion as an old painter... While there are products and processes that can improve the appearance of just about any reasonable quality paint works, i.e., original equipment or better, the ultimate in gloss and depth doesn't come from anything you apply to a finish, it has more to do with the way the finish is applied.

Flawless preparation and application of the finish creates the ultimate depth and gloss.

Sanding between finish coats improves depth. Loading several coats of finish and then trying to sand it smooth prior to polishing is a far cry from sanding between each coat. The more sanding you do between coats, i.e., between every coat, every other coat, every third coat, etc., the smoother and more glass-like the finish will be, and that is where the ultimate in depth and gloss is achieved.

 

[Rsurfer]

Here's my opinion as an old painter... While there are products and processes that can improve the appearance of just about any reasonable quality paint works, i.e., original equipment or better, the ultimate in gloss and depth doesn't come from anything you apply to a finish, it has more to do with the way the finish is applied.

Flawless preparation and application of the finish creates the ultimate depth and gloss.

Sanding between finish coats improves depth. Loading several coats of finish and then trying to sand it smooth prior to polishing is a far cry from sanding between each coat. The more sanding you do between coats, i.e., between every coat, every other coat, every third coat, etc., the smoother and more glass-like the finish will be, and that is where the ultimate in depth and gloss is achieved.

You are correct, however I don't believe that the OP is willing to wet sand OEM paint. So, OP it's all in the prep work.

Try different polishes and pad combo's on different panels. What might work on your buddies Stang many not work on yours. Trial and error and most of all technique is the key. Happy polishing.:buffing:

 

[arcwcb]

You are correct, however I don't believe that the OP is willing to wet sand OEM paint. So, OP it's all in the prep work.

Try different polishes and pad combo's on different panels. What might work on your buddies Stang many not work on yours. Trial and error and most of all technique is the key. Happy polishing.:buffing:

You're right, I'm not really up for wet sanding my OEM paint. I have a good routine and I'm very happy with the finish, the car looks better than it did new. I just don't have much experience with the new coatings, and I'm not familiar with how much of a gain in appearence there is vs normal wax/sealant (I use either Griot's Best of Show or Blackfire Wet Diamond on my vehicles) or if the gain is just in durability. Either way, I think I'll give the cQuartz a try, maybe a harder coating will reduce how often i polish.

Pic of the car mid-polish (it's still on the hood and front fender haha) last time I detailed it, just as a reference of paint condition now:

 

[arcwcb]

Assuming the paint is already fully corrected, this is the process that I've found to provide the best gloss enhancement:

1. CarPro Essence. You'll see your black paint get darker as you apply this product. Metallic flake also "pops" like crazy.
2. CQuartz x4 layers. Something happens after the 3rd layer, it's unmistakable. The surface will darken dramatically.
3. CarPro Reload for an additional gloss boost.

I've never seen anybody apply multiple layers of cQuartz (maybe just due to cost). Do you have any threads where you show a car that you've done that to? I'd like to check it out and see the final results.

 

[Aaryn NZ]

Assuming the paint is already fully corrected, this is the process that I've found to provide the best gloss enhancement:

1. CarPro Essence. You'll see your black paint get darker as you apply this product. Metallic flake also "pops" like crazy.
2. CQuartz x4 layers. Something happens after the 3rd layer, it's unmistakable. The surface will darken dramatically.
3. CarPro Reload for an additional gloss boost.

Yeah, what Nicholas says here is pretty sound advice. Also CarPro have Essence+ aswell, which is intended for fixing/topping their range of coatings, so theoretically- once you have coated your Mustang, & you say it doesn't come out all that often, keeping it looking amazing is really rather easy given a little know how, care & attention.

Aaryn NZ. :dblthumb2:

 

[fightnews]

I have a black Mustang that I'm looking for better depth and more gloss. I currently use a Griot's random orbital with Griot's polishes and pads, and use Blackfire Wet Diamond for protection. I'm looking at maybe going to a coating like cQuartz, Opti-Coat, etc (with the appropriate prep work), but I want to make sure I pick the one that will provide the best "wet" look. The car is not daily driven, and is garage kept, I just want the OEM paint to look the best it possibly can.

Also, only looking for products and ideas that I can do myself, I take my car to a lot of shows and I take pride in it's appearance. If I just take to somewhere to be professionally detailed, I feel like that takes the fun out of it.

Thanks!

you'll fit right it, hope your not an impulse buyer? one can spend a lot of money in that quest lol....

 

[fightnews]

Here's my opinion as an old painter... While there are products and processes that can improve the appearance of just about any reasonable quality paint works, i.e., original equipment or better, the ultimate in gloss and depth doesn't come from anything you apply to a finish, it has more to do with the way the finish is applied.

Flawless preparation and application of the finish creates the ultimate depth and gloss.

Sanding between finish coats improves depth. Loading several coats of finish and then trying to sand it smooth prior to polishing is a far cry from sanding between each coat. The more sanding you do between coats, i.e., between every coat, every other coat, every third coat, etc., the smoother and more glass-like the finish will be, and that is where the ultimate in depth and gloss is achieved.

how do you find a painter that will do it the better more labor intensive way?

 

[fightnews]

You're right, I'm not really up for wet sanding my OEM paint. I have a good routine and I'm very happy with the finish, the car looks better than it did new. I just don't have much experience with the new coatings, and I'm not familiar with how much of a gain in appearence there is vs normal wax/sealant (I use either Griot's Best of Show or Blackfire Wet Diamond on my vehicles) or if the gain is just in durability. Either way, I think I'll give the cQuartz a try, maybe a harder coating will reduce how often i polish.

Pic of the car mid-polish (it's still on the hood and front fender haha) last time I detailed it, just as a reference of paint condition now:

one thing to mention about coatings, *i think* If you like using spray wax/detail products, the ones you have may not work with the coating

 

[arcwcb]

one thing to mention about coatings, *i think* If you like using spray wax/detail products, the ones you have may not work with the coating

That's ok, I have a few bottles of Speed Shine sitting around that can be used on the other vehicles. Is it just due to compatibility issues or do other sprays break down the coating?

 

[arcwcb]

Yeah, what Nicholas says here is pretty sound advice. Also CarPro have Essence+ aswell, which is intended for fixing/topping their range of coatings, so theoretically- once you have coated your Mustang, & you say it doesn't come out all that often, keeping it looking amazing is really rather easy given a little know how, care & attention.

Aaryn NZ. :dblthumb2:

So I should wash, IronX/clay the car, polish polish polish, then Essence, cQuartz cQuartz cQuartz cQuartz, then top with Essence+? Or is the Essence+ before the coating?

 

[AutowerxDetailing]

I've never seen anybody apply multiple layers of cQuartz (maybe just due to cost). Do you have any threads where you show a car that you've done that to? I'd like to check it out and see the final results.

All of my CQuartz Finest installs are minimum two coats. If you wanted to browse through our Facebook there are several examples of vehicles finished w/ Essence, x2 coats of CQFinest, and topped with Reload. In all honestly I never recommend anyone to purchase more than two coats because from a protection standpoint it is a waste. The car will (most likely) eventually get swirled out again and will need to be polished in a few years anyway, which will then remove most/all of the coating in the process. Although now there is the option of using Essence+ to fill in any defects picked up along the years. But Essence+ doesn't fill super deep swirls so if the vehicle is ever washed improperly (like with a brush, or at a dealership) the finish is doomed and will need correction and re-coating to repair. This is why I've never understood the quest for coatings that are "guaranteed" to last over 5 or 6 years or lifetime. What do people think the car is going to look like after 6 years of daily use? I'll let you in on a secret... even with the best care routine it will only look "okay" but it's not going to look showroom new no matter what coating is used. No matter how careful you are with washing there is going to be at least some light wash marring and if you have say a jet black paint job you'll most likely want it polished sometime in the future which will remove whatever coating is left.

With all that being said this thread was about achieving better gloss on OEM paint. If you are looking purely for the absolute BEST gloss and depth in my experience 4 layers of CQuartz is the sweet spot. Especially on darker colors you get a surreal depth and gloss that looks like an HDR photograph in real life. I have 7 layers of Finest on the hood of my wife's minivan (wanted to test if there was a noticeable difference with more coats) and I couldn't tell a difference after layer #4.

So I should wash, IronX/clay the car, polish polish polish, then Essence, cQuartz cQuartz cQuartz cQuartz, then top with Essence+? Or is the Essence+ before the coating?

Process would be:

1. Perform any correction necessary to achieve a flawless surface.
2. Apply Essence, remove residue, and allow vehicle to cure for at least 1 hour (maybe longer in cold temps).
3. Apply CQuartz to entire vehicle as directed. Allow each coat to cure the recommended interval before applying the next layer. I usually wait an hour between layers.
4. After the coating layers are fully cured, apply Reload for even more gloss.

On a freshly coated surface I don't think Essence+ makes a difference. I would save it for an annual maintenance treatment since it can be used sort of like a cleaner wax but since it's non-abrasive (and when used very carefully with a non-abrasive foam pad) it won't remove the coating layers from the vehicle.

 

[LEDetailing]

how do you find a painter that will do it the better more labor intensive way?

Go to any large car show or read about award winning cars and find out who did the paint. This level of paint will range from high four figures to well over $20k and much higher.

 

[Aaryn NZ]

So I should wash, IronX/clay the car, polish polish polish, then Essence, cQuartz cQuartz cQuartz cQuartz, then top with Essence+? Or is the Essence+ before the coating?

Sorry, you'll have to forgive me for the late reply - I'm on the other side of the planet. :xyxthumbs:

What Nicholas has said below is spot on IMO. I wouldn't be concerned about Essence+ until such time that you have some minor maring (inevitable) to "repair" - basically, you are working on the coating in this instance & not your precious clearcoat. If any deeper maring is inflicted over time, then repolishing/recoating will be necessary.

Nicholas has listed a great process to achieve your desired results below . . . good luck on your quest arcwcb.

Aaryn NZ. :dblthumb2:

Process would be:

1. Perform any correction necessary to achieve a flawless surface.
2. Apply Essence, remove residue, and allow vehicle to cure for at least 1 hour (maybe longer in cold temps).
3. Apply CQuartz to entire vehicle as directed. Allow each coat to cure the recommended interval before applying the next layer. I usually wait an hour between layers.
4. After the coating layers are fully cured, apply Reload for even more gloss.

On a freshly coated surface I don't think Essence+ makes a difference. I would save it for an annual maintenance treatment since it can be used sort of like a cleaner wax but since it's non-abrasive (and when used very carefully with a non-abrasive foam pad) it won't remove the coating layers from the vehicle.

 

[arcwcb]

All of my CQuartz Finest installs are minimum two coats. If you wanted to browse through our Facebook there are several examples of vehicles finished w/ Essence, x2 coats of CQFinest, and topped with Reload. In all honestly I never recommend anyone to purchase more than two coats because from a protection standpoint it is a waste. The car will (most likely) eventually get swirled out again and will need to be polished in a few years anyway, which will then remove most/all of the coating in the process. Although now there is the option of using Essence+ to fill in any defects picked up along the years. But Essence+ doesn't fill super deep swirls so if the vehicle is ever washed improperly (like with a brush, or at a dealership) the finish is doomed and will need correction and re-coating to repair. This is why I've never understood the quest for coatings that are "guaranteed" to last over 5 or 6 years or lifetime. What do people think the car is going to look like after 6 years of daily use? I'll let you in on a secret... even with the best care routine it will only look "okay" but it's not going to look showroom new no matter what coating is used. No matter how careful you are with washing there is going to be at least some light wash marring and if you have say a jet black paint job you'll most likely want it polished sometime in the future which will remove whatever coating is left.

With all that being said this thread was about achieving better gloss on OEM paint. If you are looking purely for the absolute BEST gloss and depth in my experience 4 layers of CQuartz is the sweet spot. Especially on darker colors you get a surreal depth and gloss that looks like an HDR photograph in real life. I have 7 layers of Finest on the hood of my wife's minivan (wanted to test if there was a noticeable difference with more coats) and I couldn't tell a difference after layer #4.



Process would be:

1. Perform any correction necessary to achieve a flawless surface.
2. Apply Essence, remove residue, and allow vehicle to cure for at least 1 hour (maybe longer in cold temps).
3. Apply CQuartz to entire vehicle as directed. Allow each coat to cure the recommended interval before applying the next layer. I usually wait an hour between layers.
4. After the coating layers are fully cured, apply Reload for even more gloss.

On a freshly coated surface I don't think Essence+ makes a difference. I would save it for an annual maintenance treatment since it can be used sort of like a cleaner wax but since it's non-abrasive (and when used very carefully with a non-abrasive foam pad) it won't remove the coating layers from the vehicle.

Thank you for the help! I'm going to get everything in order and post a thread of the process and the final results!

 

[Klasse Act]

I'm still a big fan of M101, maybe I'm old school but this product has been forgotten about and it only came out a couple years ago

I will always have this in my collection because it just flat out works and finishes just about LSP ready!

Sent from my LGLS990 using Tapatalk

 

[2black1s]

how do you find a painter that will do it the better more labor intensive way?

I'm not sure... I never had to find anyone else as I always did my own work. But I'm an old guy now and no longer painting.

My suggestion would be talking to folks at car shows and such. You might even find someone who works in the industry (body shop) as a day job and does special interest kind of work on the side out of their home. Generally speaking, (there are always exceptions), the best paint jobs won't be coming out of your run-of-the-mill production oriented body shop.

Restoration shops are another possibility if there are any around you.

Another issue is that I don't believe sanding between coats is a very common practice with today's urethane finishes. It was definitely more prevalent in the days of acrylic lacquers, but similar principles can be applied even with urethane finishes. I've done it.

 

[BudgetPlan1]

I'm still a big fan of M101, maybe I'm old school but this product has been forgotten about and it only came out a couple years ago

I will always have this in my collection because it just flat out works and finishes just about LSP ready!

Sent from my LGLS990 using Tapatalk

Love the M101 on Flex 3401 w LC Force Hybrid pads. The Rupes works nicely with D300 and microfiber cutting discs. When I was using a GG6 the D300 was also a go to on pretty nasty paint.