Question about 3M Compound?

weavers

New member
Joined
May 4, 2010
Messages
354
Reaction score
0
I am looking for a polish that is a bit more aggressive than m105 and a bit cheaper. So I was looking at 3M Super Duty Rubbing Compound and I saw a bottle of it at pepboys, but the label is different than whats sold at autogeeks and whats sold in a quarter online also has a different lable.

Question are these the same products? In the pic, the product on the far right.
3M Super Duty Rubbing Compound, auto compound polish, rubbing compounds, 3m rubbing compounds

by the way I have megs ultimate compound and m205. I use a griots DA and lake country orange and white pads, and purple wool when its tough. UC doesn't always cut it, and I've used up my m105. I just bought some surbuff pads and will try them with UC later today.
 
Re: Question about 3m polish

I was looking at the compound comparison chart and they have the same name and should be more aggressive than m105. But i dunno if they are the same product.

The quart size bottles online look like this:
enlarged.php

I dunno if the one at pepboys with the black bottle is an older model or if it will work as well. I don't want to spend 20 dollars and not see the results I want.
 
Re: Question about 3m polish

Oh, sorry, I looked at the wrong bottle in ur pic. I would be very wary of that product lest you induce compounding haze. 105 has a very small abrasive size for its amount of cut.
 
Re: Question about 3m polish


I was looking at the compound comparison chart and they have the same name and should be more aggressive than m105. But i dunno if they are the same product.


Setec Astronomy is suggesting that 105 will do the job, and leave behind a better finish so you don't have to spend all day removing the scratches you just instilled with the rubbing compound, and possibly an inferior technique, or pad/compound combination.

I've personally used the Menzerna line of polishes, and find that they are quite effective at removing defects not only easier, but simultaneously leaves behind a smooth, swirl-free finish :xyxthumbs:





 
Re: Question about 3m polish

I use a griots DA and lake country orange and white pads, and purple wool when its tough. UC doesn't always cut it, and I've used up my m105. I just bought some surbuff pads and will try them with UC later today.

You will love the results of the surbuffs if you havent already used them. They will definitly help you get some more cut then the Orange pads.

Are you doing only corrections or do you do alot with wetsanding that requires correction as well?
 
Re: Question about 3m polish

I hear what you are saying. I've used up 32oz of m105. It works great with the orange pad. But on hard paints I need to use purple wool, then orange pad with m105 then m205. Most of the time I do a two stage correction with meg ultimate compound+orange pad followed by m205 on white pad. on harder paints UC and purple wool does ok, but often times needs doing over twice, even with 6 passes with moderate preasure and a slow arm speed on my griots DA.

For times when I do a 3 stage correction I want to save a bit of money. So i've switched to megs ultimate compound. Not quite as much cut as m105, but close enough. Still I need a stronger compound and this 3m super duty compound is +30% cheaper and doesn't require shipping. Meguirs polishes have been good to me and I will keep using them, but m105 is just to pricey
 
Re: Question about 3m polish

You will love the results of the surbuffs if you havent already used them. They will definitly help you get some more cut then the Orange pads.

Are you doing only corrections or do you do alot with wetsanding that requires correction as well?

I've done some wet sanding. For peoples car I much rather correct and not sand. I don't have a paint thickness gauge. I will wet sand headlamps and they easily fix up with megs ulimate compound and orange pad followed by m205+white pad. Or I can use plastic x.
 
Re: Question about 3m polish

I am looking for a polish that is a bit more aggressive than m105 and a bit cheaper.

What are you working on?
What are you trying to accomplish? More speed? More aggressive cutting action?


I use a griots DA and lake country orange and white pads, and purple wool when its tough.


Keep in mind some compounds are NOT DA friendly, they will leave the paint looking scoured with haze from the abrasives.

I think the 3M Heavy Duty Compounds are for use with rotary buffers only, not DA Polishers. 3M Compounds in their Professional Line are targeted at body shops and in body shops they use rotary buffers for removing sanding marks, not DA Polishers.


UC doesn't always cut it, and I've used up my m105. I just bought some surbuff pads and will try them with UC later today.

The Surbuf pads cut pretty aggressively with M105, not sure you would want to get more aggressive than this with a DA style polisher. If you do, get some XMT #4, it's like liquid sandpaper and you WILL have to re-buff to remove the haze the XMT #4 leaves in the paint.

Instead of getting more aggressive with your compound, (M105 is formulated to remove down to #1200 grit sanding marks, that's pretty aggressive), maybe try tweaking your technique...

Shrink the size of your work area downward and use 5.5" pads as discussed here...

How to maximize the ability of the 1st Generation Porter Cable Dual Action Polishers



Or get a rotary buffer and simply use a more powerful tool...



:)
 
Instead of a title asking about a polish I changed it to a title asking about a compound...

Compounds are usually the big dogs in the liquid abrasive world and polishes can be all over the place. Some waxes and sealants that are not abrasive at all are called polish.


:D
 
3M 05954 is a rocks in a bottle type of compound that will cut paint right off of a car very quickly with a rotary and will never fully break down with a DA. I have experience with both this and 105 and there is a world of difference between the two products.
 
3M 05954 is a rocks in a bottle type of compound that will cut paint right off of a car very quickly with a rotary and will never fully break down with a DA. I have experience with both this and 105 and there is a world of difference between the two products.

That is just a awesome description.
 
That is just a awesome description.
It's true though, this stuff is actually like beach sand in a suspension fluid and is able to remove 800 grit sanding marks with ease. I have played around with it on junk panels and it doesn't take long at all to cut all the clear paint off of the car with a rotary. After using it with a PC style machine it looks like a brillo pad was used to scour the panel as Mike has already stated. It is a very good product for it's intended purpose which would be for cutting very severe defects out of very thick paint systems.
 
This stuff sounds brutal. I have used 3M rubbing compound for small scratches and that's it.
 
I tired the surbuff 5.5" pads with megs ultimate compound. I worked in 12"x12" areas. I tried on speed 5, with moderate pressure. On the roof it worked perfectly, almost no imperfections, but on the hood and trunk lid. I'm not happy with it. I tried the surf buff pads with m105 on speed 6 with slow arm speed and more pressure 6 passes. Then moderate pressure with lc orange pad and ultimate on speed 5 and then m205 on white pad on speed 5. again slow arms in a small work area. This was on a 2000 Toyota Camry. It just has absurdly hard paint. Its also really hard to photograph white paint for scratches.

Best before photo I could get. you can see how hazzy the light is and all of the small swirl marks.
PC153417.jpg


roof came out really well: surfbuff pad with ulimate compound speed 5 moderate pressure. followed by white pad speed 5 with m205.
P1064445-1.jpg



Final result on the hood. I somehow doubt they are rids. It is an improvement. I know its a white car and no one will see the swirl marks. I wanted it to be a lot closer to perfection. The customer is happy, but I am not.I wanted the hood to look as good as the roof.
P1054389.jpg


Maybe this car needed wet sanding or just an more aggressive product or a more powerful machine like a flex rotary. I don't want to wetsand(need more practice, but I like wet sanding headlamps). I dunno I was thinking the 3m polish would be it. But you guys have really scared me that it will scorn and haze and mess up the paint beyond repair. I've read other forums saying it works really well. I dunno, I'm out of m105 and surfbuff and UC is my most aggressive combo right now. I can't spend alot of money right now.

I guess I just need to learn to be happy with the results I get.
 
I dunno I was thinking the 3m polish would be it. But you guys have really scared me that it will scorn and haze and mess up the paint beyond repair. I've read other forums saying it works really well.

The 3M Super Duty is pretty aggressive. I have it and refer to it as sand in a bottle, it's been called rocks in a bottle in this thread... BUT it's just a figure of speech, the product is made for polishing automotive paint.

It can be tough to get it fully broken down with a DA, try very lightly spritzing the pad with lube or water 3/4's through the buffing cycle if more working time is needed. Under-work the polish and you might end up doing a bit of "clean up" polishing to correct the compounding marks. If you have to resort to this polish, the marring it leaves behind is likely not as bad as what it corrected.

Don't worry, there's no sand in it! :dblthumb2:
 
What about waiting for the new MF system from Megs? I am really anxious to see what this stuff can do. I will probably get some just because I want to try it but I need another compound/polish like I need a stick in my eye
 
3M 05954 is a rocks in a bottle type of compound that will cut paint right off of a car very quickly with a rotary and will never fully break down with a DA. I have experience with both this and 105 and there is a world of difference between the two products.

:iagree:Just about the only time I ever use 05954 is to prep a demo panel to try out other new products/procedures. Leaves a surface with plenty of defects to correct.
 
Back
Top