Question about CarPro reload

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I got a PM this morning from a forum member asking about CarPro Releoad. Taking a page from Mike Phillips, I opted not to answer the PM, rather post the question here and answer it. This does several things, it opens the topic up for discussion, and allows other to join in, secondly, it allows me to post on a method I use that may help someone else that is lurking, yet has the same issue.

[h=2]Question about CarPro reload[/h]
Hey there,

I just saw your thread on the maintenance detail for Red Porsche and I wanted to ask you a question.

I currently have Black BMW with ceramic coating and whenever I tried to apply CarPro reload after a wash, I can see a streak after a wipe and I will have to wipe again with a separate towel, but I feel like this process caused some swirls because I keep having to take an extra step and wipe my paint more than once.

What are you thoughts on this and any advice on how I can avoid having to wipe more than once? Maybe because my car is black, its more difficult?

I would greatly appreciate any input

Thanks

I would wager that there is nothing more soft than a Porsche 911 paint. Especially the 911 Turbo in question on this post: LSN Autodetailing - 2003 Porsche 911 Turbo Maintenance Day

My method of applying Reload starts with preparation. Ensuring the vehicle is absolutely free of any contaminants. The second step of preparation is ensuring you have all the right tools to do the job. For Reload, I start with

1.) Blue Ultima Microfiber Applicator Sponge: Ultima Autospa Microfiber Applicator, applicator pad

2.) Fresh new CarPro Microfiber Sued Towels: CarPro Suede Microfiber Cloths, suede microfibre cloths, microfiber towels, cquartz microfiber

3.) Fresh New (pre-washed) Gold Plush Jr. Microfiber Towels: Gold Plush Jr. Microfiber Towels 12 Pack

Here is the key to using Gold Plush Micro Fiber towels. I have mine graded, A, B, C, D, E, (etc.. even Private Stock). I have them separated in bins by the order of grade. A towels are for only removing LSP or Quick Detailer. These are super soft and as they degrade, they get demoted to B or C towels. Towels that remove compounds and polishes are B towels. C is for interior and D & E are for Door Jams, Engine Bays and wheels, etc...

CarPro Towels will only get used once then I degrade them to menial tasks such as interior or they are pretty good on glass (after you used a waffle glass towel).

Ok so now that we've separated out the towels, onto the process...

NOTE: I apply reload in the garage. It can be done in sunlight, and I've actually had success, but it's a but the work time is short and quick, which is why I prefer the garage bay.
a.) After the car is spotless, I use spray a liberal amount of Reload on the Ultima applicator. With LIGHT pressure, I work reload in a 16"x16" cross section and section pass it a few times. I do not wait as it will start to flash.
b.) Immediately I then take a fresh CarPro Towel (folded in 4ths) and LIGHTLY remove the excess Reload from the section. I flip the towel to the other side and gently wipe the same section.
c.) Take a Gold Plush Jr. and gingerly wipe the same area, flip the towel and repeat the process.

NOTE: If your dealing with a large panel like a hood, you will have to refold your towels to use fresh areas of the towel. Refreshing your towels is important. I try to only use one set of towels per body panel, and that includes refolding to fresh areas. One thing about working with coatings of any kind... Do not try to get away with using too few towels, they build up product and this is how you end up with high-spots.

d.) When done make sure you inspect from a few feet away to ensure you didn't leave any trace amounts as they will become high-spots. It doesn't hurt to have someone else inspect with fresh eyes.

I suspect your doing three things that is leading to your issue.
1.) I'm not sure how your are applying the product ---> Need more info there.
2.) Not using fresh towels
3.) Not changing towels out enough ---> If it's streaking after you wipe, I suspect that your not changing out fresh towels often.
4.) Bearing down too hard to remove excess product ---> This is likely the culprit, as the product dries you can marr the coating you just put down. I suspect the marring you see is in the coating not the CC.

Hope this helps!!!
 
Here is another maintenance I just did with the same process as reload:

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NDMyMDBENDRBMDdEQzFGODRDQUY6NmMxMDNlNTk0MDUyNTc1NGJiZWY4N2E1NWIxMmIwYzU=
 
The first thought that came to my mind after the mention of a simple re-wipe, then swirling occurring, was what Ceramic Coating was used?

I can understand maybe having soft paint, but not after a durable coating was applied.

IMO, one of the Carpro Coatings would be pretty difficult to swirl that easily, and especially after just being topped with Reload.
 
I would question weather he is causing these swirl marks from improper washing techniques rather than applying Reload. A simple wipe with Reload with a clean micro-fiber would not cause swirl marks.

A do agree with your assessment and use of towels. I'd also ask what soap he is using to wash the car? Is he using something such as Reset or using a soap with optical modifiers?
 
My God, you do some beautiful work.

OP, quick unrelated question if you will indulge me.

What's the point of a maintenance spray like Reload over a ceramic coating when you went through all the effort and cost of the ceramic coat itself, as a customer?

Meaning, is the ceramic coat not good enough, not what it's marketed to be? Or just naturally, it dulls out over time?
 
My God, you do some beautiful work.

OP, quick unrelated question if you will indulge me.

What's the point of a maintenance spray like Reload over a ceramic coating when you went through all the effort and cost of the ceramic coat itself, as a customer?

Meaning, is the ceramic coat not good enough, not what it's marketed to be? Or just naturally, it dulls out over time?


The idea behind a sacrificial product in this case is to extend the lifespan of the coating. The key is using a sacrificial product that will not mask or otherwise modify the visual properties of the ceramic coating.

It also is useful in cases where 100% curing is not possible via either IR lamp or the normal 12-24hr out-of-weather window, and so the sacrificial product actually will protect the coating as it finishes curing/crosslinking on the paint surface.


If used properly, 'extenders' like reload, cure, C2V3 etc can turn a 1 year coating into a 2-3 year coating with proper maintenance and care, and dependent upon the vehicle's usage and exposure to weather.
 
^^^ what he said! ^^^ great answer! Plus you're adding a second coat (per say) at a fraction of the cost of the actual original coating price. Reload and others mentioned are actually classified as "quick detailers" with SIo2.

The maintenance directions for CQquartz is:
Maintenance:

1 When washing always use a dedicated car shampoo and wash mitt. We recommend washing with IronX Soap Gel.
2 Remove bird droppings from the paintwork as quickly as possible to avoid damage to the coating. Cquartz will protect from those for the first day or two, but not long term.
3 Avoid using automatic car washes.
4 Use our Reload spray sealant to maintain the coat for longer lasting time.
 
Reload and others mentioned are actually classified as "quick detailers" with SIo2.

I don’t think Reload is classified as a “quik detailer” considering it has no cleaning ability. If someone were to use Reload as a quik detailer they’d swirl up their paint.
 
I don’t think Reload is classified as a “quik detailer” considering it has no cleaning ability. If someone were to use Reload as a quik detailer they’d swirl up their paint.

Ok, technically classified as a spray sealant. However, to that point, Pinnacle Crystal Mist is considered a Detail Spray, however it has no cleaning properties. The idea is rather than doing a full coating, every 3 to 6 months, one can wash the car and properly apply ReLoad to improve and enhance the existing coating. In some cases, Reload can be used on it's own as a "spray sealant".

Hope this clarifies things! :)
 
You know I was about to catch you again right there.lol.
 
In some cases, Reload can be used on it's own as a "spray sealant".

Thanks for the reply. Can you give an example here?

When you say that, I read this -- "In cases where you don't want to pay for a full ceramic... you can spray sealant" :)
 
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