question about fresh clear coat and re-clearing

[op1001]

I didn't know where to post this,, but i am hoping someone knows.

So i did some colour matching on my sisters rear acura fender.. and it came out great.. matched amazing,.

So i went to do the clear I was working on it.. and the stupid can started spitting and now there are runs and it doesn't look good.

So Can i just re-sand the area and reclear it? or do i have to wait to sand the Fresh clear?

 

[rmagnus]

Best time is when it's wet. Use masking tape and pull he run off the clear and reshoot it. Most of the time you can get away with it.

Now you have to sand out the run scuff the clear and reshoot. This is why a spray gun is better than rattle cans for clear. Put down a tack coat then wet coats with flash time inbetween.

BTW what color is the car?

 

[op1001]

it is like a desert silver acura rsx matelic colour, the blend went better than i expected, but the clear fudged me.

what is a tack coat?

I will probalby have to sand it out tomorrow and redo it.. what do you recommend? grit 400-600? dry or wet?

 

[erichaley]

What kind of clear are you using? If you aren't using a 2K clear, such as SprayMax, it's going to yellow over time. Now's the time to do it right if you aren't already.

 

[rmagnus]

it is like a desert silver acura rsx matelic colour, the blend went better than i expected, but the clear fudged me.

what is a tack coat?

I will probalby have to sand it out tomorrow and redo it.. what do you recommend? grit 400-600? dry or wet?

Tack coat is a light coat of paint or clear that gets tacky very quickly. That way when you spray wet it will not run.

Metallics are tough to blend but silver is the most forgiving. As suggested you must use a 2K clear outherwise it will yellow within a year and look bad. For me spraying clear is the most difficult to do it right. I don;t paint much anymore and getting all the settings and technique matched up to avoid orange peel is a challenge. Yea I know you can always sand and buff it smooth.

I'd go with 400 grit paper and dry sanding is easier but makes a bigger mess IMO. Nothing wrong with wet sanding though. Remove the defects first then scuff the clear for a reshoot. If you used 1K clear the best solution is sand into the color and reshoot both base and CC.

I was researching 3M tape yesterday and they have a blend tape that looks really interesting. Designed so you don't have to back tape to avoid hard lines in your paint when blending. Stuff looks pretty trick but I've never used it. You might want to research it.