Question about Iron X step

Eldorado2k

Eldorado2k

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Hey guys, I'd like to know your thoughts on using a product like IronX/DUB Wheel Cleaner, and following it up with claying..

Most of the info and vids I see describe going from IronX right to clay after rinsing the vehicle. I recently followed those steps, and while I was claying I ran into a bit of excess from the DUB Cleaner that hadn't completely rinsed clean coming from the cracks in the trunklid as I was claying.. But instead of clay, I was using a Speedy Prep Towel.

My question is: The label states that the Speedy Prep Towel is not solvent resistant. Will IronX/DUB Wheel Cleaner ruin the clay towel? If so, am I crazy to think it'd be a better idea to give the vehicle a quik wash with soap and a mitt and rinse prior to using the clay towel? Or am I overthinking it?

If the vehicle isn't overly dirty [nearly clean] would it be ok to:
1. Start with IronX on a cool, dry vehicle [no agitation w/mitt]
2. Rinse
3. Bucket wash
3. Rinse
5. Clay or clay towel to decontaminate
6. Dry
7. Polish

What are your thoughts?
 
If it turns gooy then it damaged it, I don't think it will. Now a tar product definitely will, I have done it with the sponge.

When using IronX I always flood rinse to flush all seams, moldings, and letters of product.
 
I've never duplicated this, but I had a fine grade Nanoskin sponge that I used with Nanoskin glide 1:7 after iron x that melted. Not a big meltdown, just portions of it. I could see that I had not completely removed some iron x from the hood. I didn't have tar x or trix at the time, so I know it wasn't that.

Coincidence? Not sure. I've never repeated that and thoroughly rinsed after iron x.

I believe the Mike Phillips aggressive method states to thoroughly rinse after the iron x step effort foaming up again for the decontamination mitts.

(Sent from my mobile device.)
 
I keep things simple and I don't overthink things.Lets use a 14 vette for example,wash first then iron x then clay with ironx still on car.I only use chemical guys black clay it's so effective and deosnt leave marring then rinse car and start polishing.That way you are saving a little time and the ironx deosnt eat up the clay.clay mitts I don't like,if you pick up a grit of dirt you cant hear the abrasion and destruction you are causing.with clay you can and some times will drag leaving you to inspect.The mitts are just to rough in my opinion .I wrecked a Mini Cooper with one of those mitts.The nano disc are great for heavey decon.
 
Because i use a grout sponge to lightly spread Iron X after i spray it on the vehicle i like to do a fairly good wash first. I don't want any dirt for my sponge to "wetsand" the paint with Iron X. I don't dry the vehicle but do rinse it thoroughly making sure i have flushed out the nooks, crannies, hood and trunk lips, trim etc. It always amazes me when i open a car door after a rinse and actually see soapy water sometimes. Or see soapy water dripping from the side view mirror housing. Knowing that, i don't want any residual Iron X or Tar X on my Nanoskin rubberized side so i spend another minute making sure i have flood rinsed as much as possible.

I've been doing it this way for maybe a year or so and haven't had any issues with my Nanoskin mitts. There was another thread recently about a good rinse effort after Iron X to avoid any purple "leakage" from mouldings etc. after the customer arrives or after their ride home in the rain (arggggghhhhh!). Good discussion here and good question, Eldo. I enjoy some of these procedural type discussions for others to share their logical perspectives. Some i agree with and others i don't but they're all good!
 
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