Question about layering These products:

Eldorado2k

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1st of all, I’m not the one doing this… Someone else on another forum just said he detailed his black late model luxury car and after machine polishing w/Chemical Guys VSS One Step Scratch & Swirl Remover, his lsp was:

-Chemical Guys Blacklight Glaze
Followed by:
-Chemical Guys Jetseal
Followed by:
-Chemical Guys Butter Wet Wax

Does that make sense to you? As I ask this question, it’s kinda starting to make sense, but at the same time I’ll hold my opinion for a bit. What do you guys think?
 
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Is it PB Black Hole Glaze? That's designed to be topped (per the mfg) and it worked great for me but I used it to hide swirls until I could polish.

Learned the trick from this forum. PB Glaze, didn't remove it and went right over with PB Blue Wax. Buffed it and looked great from 10ft.

This might be the cleanest outside after picture of that experience. I've got closer ones where it looks fine but the dealer provided extra swirls for me since they couldn't do same-day delivery


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Ive done exactly this to my sister's car because I didn't want to correct it since I know she goes through the car wash.


She has a Black Kia Forte and it came out great! The Blacklight hid scratches and then the other two protected the paint.

Not sure about how long the blacklight hid the swirls but it looked great when I was done.

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Ive done exactly this to my sister's car because I didn't want to correct it since I know she goes through the car wash.


She has a Black Kia Forte and it came out great! The Blacklight hid scratches and then the other two protected the paint.

Not sure about how long the blacklight hid the swirls but it looked great when I was done.

Sent from my SM-F956U1 using Tapatalk

I see… The glaze to help hide swirls & enhance gloss, sealant to protect, and wax on top of sealant to further enhance the shine.

However looking at the details of the Butter Wet Wax, there’s a couple of things that would make me consider not using it that way.

1. They say it only lasts 3 weeks.
2. And this is more concerning, which makes me think it’s capable of removing any existing protection and replacing it with its own, leaving you with a lsp of just 3 weeks protection.

[because if it cleanses paint to remove scuffs, bird droppings, road tar, tree sap & overspray, why wouldn’t it remove existing protection]?

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This combo makes sense, but is way to much work for what you will get.
Tell that boomer a 1 step polish + coating would be a better option
 
Like Flash is saying, that's an old school (from 20 years ago) process (which I completely believe CG's would be pushing today).

Eldo you should remember the Meg's process that was to use an abrasive polish, then follow that with a glaze (#3, #7, #82) and then top that with a wax.
Then there was "The Perfect Shine" which was Klasse AIO (cleaner), followed by Klasse SG (sealant), topped with P21S wax.

And plenty of people would polish, then use a sealant for durability, then top with a wax for pop/glow.

When Danase Wet Glaze came out about 20 years ago (and was followed by similar Poorboy's, CG, and Prima products), it was a polymer glaze that was sealant-compatible, so you could glaze, sealant, wax. Remember, this was in the days before SMAT polishes, MF pads, KB Method, forced rotation, long throw, etc. In those days it was accepted that you might not able to remove defects, so you might want to fill them with a glaze or a heavy wax.

To Flash's point, compared to today's products, the approach you are suggesting is a lot of work for not much result.
 
Like Flash is saying, that's an old school (from 20 years ago) process (which I completely believe CG's would be pushing today).

Eldo you should remember the Meg's process that was to use an abrasive polish, then follow that with a glaze (#3, #7, #82) and then top that with a wax.
Then there was "The Perfect Shine" which was Klasse AIO (cleaner), followed by Klasse SG (sealant), topped with P21S wax.

And plenty of people would polish, then use a sealant for durability, then top with a wax for pop/glow.

When Danase Wet Glaze came out about 20 years ago (and was followed by similar Poorboy's, CG, and Prima products), it was a polymer glaze that was sealant-compatible, so you could glaze, sealant, wax. Remember, this was in the days before SMAT polishes, MF pads, KB Method, forced rotation, long throw, etc. In those days it was accepted that you might not able to remove defects, so you might want to fill them with a glaze or a heavy wax.

To Flash's point, compared to today's products, the approach you are suggesting is a lot of work for not much result.
Those were the good ole days though for sure. Spending 2 days on 1 car was so much fun 😩
Ceramic coatings and ppf killed detailing as you and I knew it 😭
 
To Flash's point, compared to today's products, the approach you are suggesting is a lot of work for not much result.

Just to clarify, I’m not personally suggesting it at all. I would never do that process, especially with the Butter Wet Wax or any product that would come after the sealant that claims to have the type of “cleansers” that Butter Wet Wax claims to have, because it’s my belief that it would remove the sealant and replace it with its own inferior protection that only lasts 3 weeks.

I would never top a sealant with a wax, period. For me it’s 1 or the other, but not both.
 
Eldo you should remember the Meg's process that was to use an abrasive polish, then follow that with a glaze (#3, #7, #82) and then top that with a wax.

Yes, I remember this.^ However it’s not exactly the same as what the Chemical Guys layering that guy did because Meguiars wasn’t recommending using 2 forms of protection on top of each other.

1. Abrasive compound to remove defects.
2. Deep Crystal Polishing Glaze to darken paint & enhance gloss.
3. Carnauba Wax/NXT to protect.
 
Just to clarify, I’m not personally suggesting it at all. I would never do that process, especially with the Butter Wet Wax or any product that would come after the sealant that claims to have the type of “cleansers” that Butter Wet Wax claims to have, because it’s my belief that it would remove the sealant and replace it with its own inferior protection that only lasts 3 weeks.

I would never top a sealant with a wax, period. For me it’s 1 or the other, but not both.
Yes, I remember this.^ However it’s not exactly the same as what the Chemical Guys layering that guy did because Meguiars wasn’t recommending using 2 forms of protection on top of each other.

1. Abrasive compound to remove defects.
2. Deep Crystal Polishing Glaze to darken paint & enhance gloss.
3. Carnauba Wax/NXT to protect.
I understand. Were you around on forums for the endless arguments about layering NXT, and whether the "cleaners" would remove previous applications? When I say in the 20+ years I've been on detailing forums that everything has changed but nothing has changed, now we have endless arguments about whether my coating is still there, is it clogged, is my beading because of the drying aid I'm using, etc., vs. 20 years ago about whether the solvent in my wax topper was actually removing my sealant, etc.
 
I understand. Were you around on forums for the endless arguments about layering NXT, and whether the "cleaners" would remove previous applications?

Yes, but I was lurking during those years. I was lurking as far back as 2006 maybe even before that.

It took me many years before I finally broke down and made an account on MOL, a few months before they held their MOL 10th Anniversary Party in Irvine where I was able to meet a bunch of cool & “famous” people in the detailing world for the 1st time.

I remember feeling too modest to want to sign up for that 10th Anniversary Party because I had only made my account for maybe 3 months prior and wasn’t sure if I was worthy.. But I was quite active during my short time and besides I was very interested in going so I signed up at the last minute.

I finally made an account on here after lurking this forum for many many years. I never made an account on Autopia.
 
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