Question about PH Neutral Car Shampoos

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drtrech

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What are the real-world benefits of using a PH-Neutral car shampoo?

In my case on my daily driver, I've moved pretty quickly from using a traditional-type wax to using a spray-and-rinse SiO2 sealant (Hydro Blue), and it's something I do every time I do a traditional wash. So I'm really more interested in getting my car clean than I am in preserving the coating.

Also, does an SiO2 sealant react to an alkaline wash the same way that a traditional wax does?

From my online video viewing (yes, I've seen some videos from Dallas Paint Correction) it looks like in order for a shampoo to be effective it needs to be somewhat alkaline; which puts into question the notion that neutral PH is really of any benefit.

I'm a relative noob processing the information I see without a deeper understanding of what's involved, so I'm wide open to being educated.
 
When Dallas talks about needing a strong aka alkaline shampoo in order to really be effective he’s mainly referring to times when you’re dealing with customers or other peoples vehicles which haven’t been properly maintained or sometimes even washed for weeks or months before you show up and have to deal with the task.

If you’ve done the proper prep before applying any form of protection and stay on top of keeping that protection fresh and stong on your paint you shouldn’t need anything more than a PH neutral car shampoo because if the lsp you’re using is any good any and all dirt should float away with ease the moment you glide your soapy wash mitt across the surface.

You shouldn’t have to aggressively scrub anything unless you’re letting several weeks/months go in between washes.
 
And to add, if you’re using Hydro Blue after every wash, you could use semi-alkaline shampoo that may degrade the SiO2 some, since you are essentially re-doing Blue right after; but I would recommend just using ph neutral regularly as your car is always protected, cleaning should always be easy, and you will in some way just be repairing/refreshing the Hydro Blue each application (I’ve known it to build up and bead better after multiple applications).

SiO2 products are much more resistant to alkaline soaps (I believe), but it should still degrade it some. Waxes may be completely dissolved by an alkaline wash.
 
I use Dawn to wash and Spam grease as LSP. Works great..... try it..... no, really, try it!


Lol.... I believe Reset is gentle as a PH neutral soap but is slightly alkaline. Recommend that. I’m also a fan of optimum car wash but don’t know it’s PH situation


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
drtrech said:
What are the real-world benefits of
using a PH-Neutral car shampoo?

In my case on my daily driver, I've moved
pretty quickly from using a traditional-type
wax to using a spray-and-rinse SiO2 sealant
(Hydro Blue), and it's something I do every
time I do a traditional wash.

So I'm really more interested in getting my
car clean than I am in preserving the coating.


Also, does an SiO2 sealant react to an alkaline
wash the same way that a traditional wax does?


From my online video viewing (yes, I've seen
some videos from Dallas Paint Correction) it
looks like in order for a shampoo to be effective
it needs to be somewhat alkaline; which puts
into question the notion that neutral PH is really
of any benefit.

I'm a relative noob processing the information
I see without a deeper understanding of what's
involved, so I'm wide open to being educated.
Click to expand...
I’m going to strongly suggest to take the
time to read the below thread (highlighted
in Blue), paying real close attention to all
of AGO Forum member PiPUK’s postings
regarding pH neutral.

PH Balanced Shampoo ??

{Note:
Although the term: pH balanced is used
in that thread’s Title (instead of pH neutral)...
the differences between those two terms
are also clarified by PiPUK.}



Bob
 
Quwst: with a good wash soap like hyper wash from Meg's... Can you use more than the required amount? It seems that this current batch doesn't feel as lubricative... Noticed I said feel, I'm not saying doesn't at all lubricate.
 
MrOneEyedBoh said:
Quwst: with a good wash soap like
hyper wash from Meg's... Can you
use more than the required amount?

It seems that this current batch doesn't
feel as lubricative... Noticed I said feel,
I'm not saying doesn't at all lubricate.
Click to expand...
Sure...
You could use more than the re-quired/
recommended amount; but, then, wouldn’t
the idea of economizing [one of the main
reasons for buying a 400:1 ratio product to
begin with, IMO] be blown to smithereens?


Bob
 
The mechanism by which a soap "works" in order to remove dirt and oils has nothing to do with pH. Rather, it has to do with polarity, where the non-polar (hydrophobic) end of the soap molecule binds with the dirt and oils to remove them.
 
FUNX650 said:
Sure...
You could use more than the re-quired/
recommended amount; but, then, wouldn’t
the idea of economizing [one of the main
reasons for buying a 400:1 ratio product to
begin with, IMO] be blown to smithereens?


Bob
Click to expand...

This is true Bob, but its sooo darn cheap... lol
 
FUNX650 said:
Sure...
You could use more than the re-quired/
recommended amount; but, then, wouldn’t
the idea of economizing [one of the main
reasons for buying a 400:1 ratio product to
begin with, IMO] be blown to smithereens?


Bob
Click to expand...

I don’t think everyone’s reason for buying Hyper Wash is for 400:1 dilution economizing... some might just like that it’s a really high quality, sudsy car wash.
 
Don’t drink the Kool Aid. Really, those APC type shampoos may help speed up the full detail process on a neglected or trashed car. But any car with reasonable maintenance only needs a regular shampoo/car wash.

The bottom line is, you have to touch the car to get it clean with either type. People have been getting their normally maintained cars clean with regular soap for years.

There are more factors than go into getting paint clean besides the pH of the soap. If that wasn’t the case, we would all be washing our dishes with APC.

Despite what’s be insinuated, most of the people who make this stuff are not morons. Making car soap isn’t an evolving technology. People have been washing their cars with regular soap diluted in water for years and it’s worked fine.
 
Using non PH balanced soaps will aid in tar ,bug removal and depending on side of the pH scale, it'll remove iron and other contamination that a clay would normally remove.

If you use a combination of acid, alkaline and solvent you can chemically strip an LSP .

You most likely won't need all 3 to do so, but you also don't know which is needed to strip said LSP. they all have different tolerances where one may be stripped by acid and safe against solvent and alkaline . another will be stripped by solvents but acid won't do anything
 
FUNX650 said:
•IMO:
-That’s not exactly what I said.


Bob
Click to expand...

Right, it’s your opinion, and you’re asking him if it’s worth jeopardizing what, in your opinion, is one of the main reasons of buying it. I’m pointing out that economizing isn’t everyone’s main reason for purchasing items.
 
When it comes to washing, consider frequency of maintenance, degree of contamination and level of protection.

All three will have a bearing on what product and technique you use to wash a vehicle.

If you’ve not washed in a few weeks, it’s been raining over this time and you top protection every wash; go for a heavy pre-wash and shampoo.

Garage, wash every week and have ceramic coating; go pH neutral with a mild pre-wash.

Point being, it doesn’t hurt to have both heavy duty and pH neutral shampoo on hand to cater to multiple scenarios.
 
swanicyouth said:
Don’t drink the Kool Aid. Really, those APC type shampoos may help speed up the full detail process on a neglected or trashed car. But any car with reasonable maintenance only needs a regular shampoo/car wash.

The bottom line is, you have to touch the car to get it clean with either type. People have been getting their normally maintained cars clean with regular soap for years.

There are more factors than go into getting paint clean besides the pH of the soap. If that wasn’t the case, we would all be washing our dishes with APC.

Despite what’s be insinuated, most of the people who make this stuff are not morons. Making car soap isn’t an evolving technology. People have been washing their cars with regular soap diluted in water for years and it’s worked fine.
Click to expand...

Explain hydrofoam and all the many similar soaps then?

Anyway I always use more then recommended but Im trying to cut back. If one were worried about the PH of any particular soap you could always just use it more diluted with water. Use 1/2 the recommended amount for example. Or if you want more lubricity add something like N-914.

I'm always making my own mixed concoctions.
 
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