Questions about CarPro Essence

[astrophora]

Greetings.

Once the weather warms up I plan on using CarPro Essence prior to CQuartz 3.0 on my silver-ish Mazda 3. The paint is in fairly good condition, but there is definitely micro-marring thanks to the dealership as well as some minor water etching thanks to my own negligence. However, both defects are near invisible, I only just now noticed them because the sun finally coming out (I knew about the water spots but I was hoping they were only deposits - sadly they are etched).

First question, will Essence alone on a yellow BOSS pad be enough to remove the micro-marring and water etching? Second, about how many pads will I need for Essence and would I need to clean on the fly or is it not required with this product? Not trying to skimp out on pads, just trying to plan ahead.

Lastly I want to thank everyone here, this site has been an absolute blessing to me. I adore my car and I'm trying my best to keep it in the best condition possible. It would not be possible without the help provided by all of you. Thank you, truly.

 

[noorth]

A simple way to clean pads that I've seen Yvan Lacroix demo recently is simply dip the pad in a rinseless solution and spin dry. But honestly i have never tried.

I like to switch out pads after about a mid-size sedan bonnet. So on a small car at least 4 pads if you don't wash them on the fly. But it's not hard to hand wash a pad with some APC and throw it in the dryer for 20-30min. You can speed that up but spin drying on the polisher like i mentioned above.

I haven't tried washing on the fly frankly. I decon/clay/polish/protect select panels in one day. Like 2 doors or a bonnet. It keeps it fresh and doesn't turn into a job. Over the years my bonnet and roof have gotten the most love lol

The yellow BOSS pad is soft i might even try the orange to get a little more cut.

Have fun!

 

[DanaDetailingPros]

Greetings.

Once the weather warms up I plan on using CarPro Essence prior to CQuartz 3.0 on my silver-ish Mazda 3. The paint is in fairly good condition, but there is definitely micro-marring thanks to the dealership as well as some minor water etching thanks to my own negligence. However, both defects are near invisible, I only just now noticed them because the sun finally coming out (I knew about the water spots but I was hoping they were only deposits - sadly they are etched).

First question, will Essence alone on a yellow BOSS pad be enough to remove the micro-marring and water etching? Second, about how many pads will I need for Essence and would I need to clean on the fly or is it not required with this product? Not trying to skimp out on pads, just trying to plan ahead.

Lastly I want to thank everyone here, this site has been an absolute blessing to me. I adore my car and I'm trying my best to keep it in the best condition possible. It would not be possible without the help provided by all of you. Thank you, truly.

I haven't used Essence yet but I just bought both Essence and Essence Plus. Both really seem great for what there intended for. I think you could get by with on CP gloss pad and air it out after each pass. It's not like your compounding a ton of garbage. As far a the Micro and etching you first should try some smooth steady, slow passes on a small test section over the worst area. Then if it doesn't do the trick I would try a yellow Rupes over the same area and see if that cleans it up. Then follow up with the gloss pad at regular speed. That's what I would do if I was just using essence. If that doesn't get the paint perfect than maybe go up to a medium polish with the yellow. Hard to judge without seeing the severity.

 

[DFB]

Greetings.

Once the weather warms up I plan on using CarPro Essence prior to CQuartz 3.0 on my silver-ish Mazda 3. The paint is in fairly good condition, but there is definitely micro-marring thanks to the dealership as well as some minor water etching thanks to my own negligence. However, both defects are near invisible, I only just now noticed them because the sun finally coming out (I knew about the water spots but I was hoping they were only deposits - sadly they are etched).

First question, will Essence alone on a yellow BOSS pad be enough to remove the micro-marring and water etching? Second, about how many pads will I need for Essence and would I need to clean on the fly or is it not required with this product? Not trying to skimp out on pads, just trying to plan ahead.

Lastly I want to thank everyone here, this site has been an absolute blessing to me. I adore my car and I'm trying my best to keep it in the best condition possible. It would not be possible without the help provided by all of you. Thank you, truly.

I recently used Essence properly for the first time last week and really enjoyed using it.





Carpro recommend using their "Gloss" finishing pad for maximum gloss, for more correction they recommend using their microfiber cutting pad. Obviously, do your test spots to see what you will need.

In my case, I used an "intermediate" blue pad, similar to the Boss pad you mentioned. Also be aware that Essense has filling qualities, so the use of that medium pad, combined with the filling properties may be all you need.

For pad cleaning, I soaked them in a bucket of Carpro Lift overnight, rinsed under running water and then ran them through the washing machine with P&S Rags to Riches.

 

[noorth]

I recently used Essence properly for the first time last week and really enjoyed using it.





Carpro recommend using their "Gloss" finishing pad for maximum gloss, for more correction they recommend using their microfiber cutting pad. Obviously, do your test spots to see what you will need.

In my case, I used an "intermediate" blue pad, similar to the Boss pad you mentioned. Also be aware that Essense has filling qualities, so the use of that medium pad, combined with the filling properties may be all you need.

For pad cleaning, I soaked them in a bucket of Carpro Lift overnight, rinsed under running water and then ran them through the washing machine with P&S Rags to Riches.

How much lift did you use? I have a lot of pre-wash type products for a weekend warrior i like to use up.

And how you like the diamond pads? I just got an orange one, it looks really interesting. The face is closer to a rupes than lake country in diameter. Good price too.

And i just got the SPTA cordless that thing is really cool - i know yours is shinemate. I think i will be polishing more that's for sure.

 

[astrophora]

The yellow BOSS pad is soft i might even try the orange to get a little more cut.

Have you used Rupes pads? It seems yellow Rupes have a lot of success with Essence but I own a G9 and wanted to match pads. I was under the impression that yellow BOSS were similar to yellow Rupes thanks to an old thread on here. Mazda paint is soft so I hopefully won't need too much cut but I'll definitely look into orange pads instead if they would be a better option.

4 pads isn't bad, I wasn't sure how saturated the pads get while using Essence. I originally planned on buying 10.

Thank you for the advice.

 

[noorth]

The Rupes yellow is much closer to the orange BOSS pad.

You only need 2-3 small drops of essence on the pad for every section.

If you want direct advice i would pickup 4-6 orange lake country CCS/SDO pads. Lake country I believe makes griots pads actually - it might be buff and shine - but they are different.

The CCS pads glide over the paint nicer than flat faced pads. The rupes pad also has a larger face so it jumps easier IME Rupes is overrated anyhow. Nice pads but I'd rather use lake country - I have a shinemate diamond pad now that i can't wait to try!

 

[Eldorado2k]

Second, about how many pads will I need for Essence and would I need to clean on the fly or is it not required with this product?

A simple way to clean pads that I've seen Yvan Lacroix demo recently is simply dip the pad in a rinseless solution and spin dry. But honestly i have never tried.

Lets not mistake “cleaning on the fly” with cleaning dirty pads…

Cleaning on the fly is ALWAYS done. Unless you’re Chip Foose and supposedly use a Brand New pad for every panel/every buffing cycle the way he once claimed in a video when someone asked him. [if you’ve seen that old vid then you know what I’m talking about. Lol]

But yea, cleaning on the fly simply means taking a pad brush and brushing polish residue off the pad immediately after you’re done with a buffing cycle. It can also be done by tightly folding a cotton terry towel and holding it against the pad and turning the polisher on to clean the pad.


-Cleaning pads is a completely different thing that doesn’t need explanation.

 

[DFB]

How much lift did you use? I have a lot of pre-wash type products for a weekend warrior i like to use up.

And how you like the diamond pads? I just got an orange one, it looks really interesting. The face is closer to a rupes than lake country in diameter. Good price too.

And i just got the SPTA cordless that thing is really cool - i know yours is shinemate. I think i will be polishing more that's for sure.

For Lift, I didn't measure it out, just a generous amount into the bucket and then left to soak overnight. In a way, this sort of mimics using APC due to Lifts alkalinity.

Those diamond pads are similar in concept to Lake Country CCS SDO pads in that they reduce heat generation and being more user friendly. I have been using these for a number of years now, they perform well for an occational user like me. The cost is also much lower compared to comparable Rupes/LC pads.



These pads are also available in flat form, similar to regular Lake Country SDO or Rupes pads.

 

[Desertnate]

But yea, cleaning on the fly simply means taking a pad brush and brushing polish residue off the pad immediately after you’re done with a buffing cycle. It can also be done by tightly folding a cotton terry towel and holding it against the pad and turning the polisher on to clean the pad.

This is what I do with my pads. I started with a towel, and finally broke down and bought a brush last year. The brush is so much easier!

As for pad rotation, I will use a pad for an area about the size of a mid-sized sedan door. At that point I'll clean it on the fly, and rotate it out to another one. I keep 4~6 pads on hand and will rotate them as I go. This means I normally won't use a pad more than twice on a job. With cleaning and the rotation, the pads don't get saturated and they stay cool.

One note to my above comment: That's when I'm using pads of an identical cut. I also keep some additional, more aggressive cut pads on standby in case I encounter a bad spot that needs a little more attention.

 

[Eldorado2k]

This is what I do with my pads. I started with a towel, and finally broke down and bought a brush last year. The brush is so much easier!

I went through the same exact scenario… I’ve had a proper pad brush for years now, but initially it took me a good long while before I could justify spending the $14 dollars or whatever it is on that brush. It’s funny the little things we decide to cheap out on isn’t it? Lol.

I came up with the brilliant idea [sarcasm] of thinking I could get away with paying half the price and used a Tuff Shine Tire Brush to clean pads for a while. Except I didn’t actually buy a real Tuff Shine brush but instead bought the identical brush with the stiffer bristles because I found it locally, and while it did the job, the user experience sucked because it felt like I was borderline killing my pads everytime I cleaned them during a detail. Lol. [the price I paid for being stupid]

Once I finally paid the price for the proper brush you realize it’s 1 of the most important tools you can’t afford to be without. There’s a good reason they cost what they do, because it’s the only brush that’s perfect for doing what it does.

Moral of the story: Don’t be El Cheapo when it comes to certain things, like tools.

 

[opie2]

I went through the same exact scenario… I’ve had a proper pad brush for years now, but initially it took me a good long while before I could justify spending the $14 dollars or whatever it is on that brush. It’s funny the little things we decide to cheap out on isn’t it? Lol.

I came up with the brilliant idea [sarcasm] of thinking I could get away with paying half the price and used a Tuff Shine Tire Brush to clean pads for a while. Except I didn’t actually buy a real Tuff Shine brush but instead bought the identical brush with the stiffer bristles because I found it locally, and while it did the job, the user experience sucked because it felt like I was borderline killing my pads everytime I cleaned them during a detail. Lol. [the price I paid for being stupid]

Once I finally paid the price for the proper brush you realize it’s 1 of the most important tools you can’t afford to be without. There’s a good reason they cost what they do, because it’s the only brush that’s perfect for doing what it does.

Moral of the story: Don’t be El Cheapo when it comes to certain things, like tools.

I used a mf towel for a while until me elcheapo bought a brush...but honestly dont really use it since i have so many damn pads i swap out to a new one lol

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[The Guz]

Greetings.

Once the weather warms up I plan on using CarPro Essence prior to CQuartz 3.0 on my silver-ish Mazda 3. The paint is in fairly good condition, but there is definitely micro-marring thanks to the dealership as well as some minor water etching thanks to my own negligence. However, both defects are near invisible, I only just now noticed them because the sun finally coming out (I knew about the water spots but I was hoping they were only deposits - sadly they are etched).

First question, will Essence alone on a yellow BOSS pad be enough to remove the micro-marring and water etching? Second, about how many pads will I need for Essence and would I need to clean on the fly or is it not required with this product? Not trying to skimp out on pads, just trying to plan ahead.

Lastly I want to thank everyone here, this site has been an absolute blessing to me. I adore my car and I'm trying my best to keep it in the best condition possible. It would not be possible without the help provided by all of you. Thank you, truly.

One thing i would recommend is to use a waterspot remover on those water spot/etched areas to remove the mineral deposit prior to polishing. You may need a compound to remove them.

Don't expect a lot of cut from Essence as it is a fine finishing polish. The paint hardness is going to play into the amount of defect removal. You will have to do a test spot to see if it will work. The good thing is the paint is silver so it does a good job of hiding defects.

As far as the number of pads here is an old thread from Mike that is a good reference point. And yes to cleaning the pad on the fly.

How many pads do I need to buff out my car?

One last recommendation and that is to panel wipe with Eraser prior to applying the coating.

A simple way to clean pads that I've seen Yvan Lacroix demo recently is simply dip the pad in a rinseless solution and spin dry. But honestly i have never tried.

Essence gets weird when it comes into contact with water when polishing. Better to use it like a traditional polish.

 

[Eldorado2k]

I used a mf towel for a while until me elcheapo bought a brush...but honestly dont really use it since i have so many damn pads i swap out to a new one lol

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I don’t expect to change any minds, but I happen to think that using a microfiber towel for cleaning on the fly works pretty terrible compared to cotton terry. Same thing with mopping up dirty carpets. I’ve never had a good experience trying to use microfiber towels for that.

I realize I’m in the minority, but I’m ok with that.

 

[opie2]

I don’t expect to change any minds, but I happen to think that using a microfiber towel for cleaning on the fly works pretty terrible compared to cotton terry. Same thing with mopping up dirty carpets. I’ve never had a good experience trying to use microfiber towels for that.

I realize I’m in the minority, but I’m ok with that.

Nah all good, mf is what i had available at the time of doing the work. Never tried the terry towel on pads. Hell the last time i can even rememeber using a mf towel on a pad was on a mf pad lol...which was years ago.

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[opie2]

One thing i would recommend is to use a waterspot remover on those water spot/etched areas to remove the mineral deposit prior to polishing. You may need a compound to remove them.
.

How well does waterspot remover work? Never tried it. I have some on the roof of the wifes jeep which is coated with pure evo. Its black...and well the sun popped out and did me dirty last fall. Was going to try descale this spring when i decon it.

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[DFB]

How well does waterspot remover work? Never tried it. I have some on the roof of the wifes jeep which is coated with pure evo. Its black...and well the sun popped out and did me dirty last fall. Was going to try descale this spring when i decon it.

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How well a water-spot remover works will come down to a variety of factors; how long has it been there, the minerals that caused the spot, paint quality, even ambient or panel temperature when the spot formed, and on the day of attempted removal.

I always treat water-spot removers as an available option, but not the only option. If you are lucky and the product works, great, its saved me having to polish them out. If it doesn't, then at least you tried the less aggressive option first.

That concept applies to Descale too, just without the targeted and more concentrated ability of a dedicated water-spot remover.

 

[opie2]

How well a water-spot remover works will come down to a variety of factors; how long has it been there, the minerals that caused the spot, paint quality, even ambient or panel temperature when the spot formed, and on the day of attempted removal.

I always treat water-spot removers as an available option, but not the only option. If you are lucky and the product works, great, its saved me having to polish them out. If it doesn't, then at least you tried the less aggressive option first.

That concept applies to Descale too, just without the targeted and more concentrated ability of a dedicated water-spot remover.

Copy that, i wont be polishing them out if the dont come off thats for sure, the coating is not even a year old yet. I only notice them when i am drying a wet panel, once its dry they are not visable

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[Coatingsarecrack]

Copy that, i wont be polishing them out if the dont come off thats for sure, the coating is not even a year old yet. I only notice them when i am drying a wet panel, once its dry they are not visable

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I may be wrong but I think Guz meant to use even if your polishing to remove mineral deposits before hand. Hopefully works on its own.


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[grovlet]

I may be wrong but I think Guz meant to use even if your polishing to remove mineral deposits before hand. Hopefully works on its own.
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That would be the best option - use it to at least soften up the mineral deposits (pre-polish).

Essence does handle light defects using a heavy cut pad - I like to pair it with Buff & Shine URO Fiber pads. Then if I have spots that need extra cleanup I'll go over them with another Uro Fiber pad + supercut. Then another pass with Essence.....

Also don't forget to wipe down the entire car with Eraser pre LSP applicationrops:

Edit: Ohh and the orange pad brush works great on Uro Fiber Pads for on the fly cleaning!