quick review question on TSR 3.0

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The product was pretty dusty at first but once I applied more it stopped doing it.

These two pics are after 10 passes ( I am not in a hurry just want to get as much as I can out)

Having said that these before and afters I can still see some scratches, I know it's not a miracle product I am just wondering if that's really as good as it can get.

Also will the finishing glaze take care of those finer scratches?

Thank you


Before
945365_10151431852653364_501098140_n.jpg


After
481786_10151431853188364_737596270_n.jpg
 
Try the finishing glaze with a polishing pad and see what happens. What machine and pads were you using with the TSR?
 
Try the finishing glaze with a polishing pad and see what happens. What machine and pads were you using with the TSR?

I think you brought up again, a very good point, in what Pads get teamed with a product will vary its effectiveness.

Case in point, I was using WGTSR yesterday on my White Tahoe's Hood, and a few days ago on the Roof.

I chose to use my PC7424XP on speed 6 with the LC 3.5" Backing Plate, and the Meguiars 4" Power DA Yellow Polishing Pads.

These are extremely soft Pads, I don't know exactly where they'd fit in the Lake County Heirarchy, but I suspect just as soft as the LC White Pad, and maybe even softer?

Thus, swirl correction was exemplary, the Tahoe's paint is on the hard side, the WGTSR finished out LSP ready, but I did see just so very few light RIDS still remaining. I'm talking so slight, you'd have to put your eyeball 2" away from the paint to see them.

I wasn't too concerned, that I only maybe got 99.9% correction, as sometimes "less is more". I didn;t wish to go to a more agressive product, or Pad, but those few RIDS probably could've been gotten with an LC Orange Pad.

Otherwise, without a doubt, I'd have to say WGTSR is really a killer product, and will always be keeping this on hand.
 
I've been trying to find some more info. If you want to extend the working time of the product you can just spray a bit of water on the pad?
 
I've been trying to find some more info. If you want to extend the working time of the product you can just spray a bit of water on the pad?

You could a little bit, it will make the cut more aggressive. But TSR has a pretty good work time. If the polish is drying up , its time to stop the buffer, clean the pad, inspect the area, and repeat if required.

The people that formulate a polish know it best and try to make the formula work in the parameter of what the product is made to do. Changing the composition of the product by adding water shouldn't be necessary, unless you have an odd situation. This doesn't apply to cerium oxide glass polishes though.
 
That's great info. Someone also mentioned that because of an orange lc pad and tsr 3.0 it could actually be clear that is what seems like dusting. I
Am an amateur but playing around I have already seen improvements on my pressure, work time etc.
 
I think its the polish dusting primarily. There may be some clear coat, but its a small amount. TSR does dust a little but its not too bad. I've found practicing my technique and using just the right amount of polish helps with dusting issues.

Generally, the more aggressive the polish in a manufacturers line of product, the more dust it makes.
 
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