The only pad I have is a black Meguiar's sanding backing pad E-7200. Will that do?
I don't have experience with that particular product, but from what I know of it, it's essentially the same as my Flexipads pad. The problem is: as it is, it's too big to limit the sanding to an inch by inch area or so. So, you'd need to cut off a smaller piece or stripe off it (I did it with a carpet knife, but a scissor should be good, too), and wrap a small piece of the sandpaper around that (in a U shape, obviously) so you will have more control over the area you're sanding.
Amazon sells some 3M 5000 grit paper, I will try that. As I said before, if I just let it be without doing anything, the damage was hardly noticeable, now I made it slightly worse, and I would prefer not to make it even worse, though I need practice. Hopefully 5000 grit will just plane the high spot down.
Obviously you will need to work it more than a 2000 grit sandpaper to abrade the same amount of clear coat, but in return your will be able to remove the sanding haze in just a single pass with a medium cutting pad and a medium cut (or even probably light) compound. And of course you will have - again - more control over the process, and for ex. won't remove more of the cleat coat than necessary and needed, just because you only checked after 10 passes with the sandpaper over the spot, and not after every second.
If you do remove too much, you'll have the same problem as with the original dimple of the touch up paint, ie. that if you look at it, it will not be perfectly flat, but you'll see a valley in the paint. And of course if you remove even more, you might burn through the clear coat. This will be still possible with a 5000 grit sandpaper, but you'll have to work harder to do it, than with a lower grit sandpaper (which will cut faster). Of course a paint thickness gauge is a must here to avoid serious mistakes, even though the affordable ones won't work on plastic parts, so there you'll have to fly blind, and go by feel and expertise.
Also make sure to wet (spritz on) the sandpaper over and over, so it won't clog up with the already abraded particles from the clear coat. This can happen more easily with a 5000 grit sandpaper than with a 2000 grit sandpaper.
Though I'll have to fill the middle of the cavity with an extremely tiny dot of paint first and let it dry. It appears that the force of the extrusion on a 80 degree day here pushed/etruded the paint into a raised area with maybe a spot of air in it or tiny fractured micro chunks of paint with some cracks in between.
Again, I'm not sure I understand exactly what you mean, but if your touch up paint has cracked, then you applied it too thick, and you need to redo it with a thinner coat, or multiple coats, if necessary. Otherwise the cracked will accumulate dirt and water, and will get uglier and uglier, and ultimately the paint will peel off. And if the paint has cracked around the edges of the touch up, then you didn't clean the surface of the defect correctly, and the touch up paint could not bond to the existing paint.
I am having trouble with the sealact and the Dr. Colorchip paint. It is a black honda accord and the Dr. Colorchip paint, I only let dry maybe 10min and could not dissolve/blend it with the sealact. The sealact also made the black Dr. Colorchip paint turn gray from deep black. I am going to talk to the Dr. Colorchip folks.
Sounds like you used too much of the solvent. Also, black paint is the finickiest and the hardest to repair properly. (Well, it's hard to do touch-up repair properly anyway, but with dark and especially black paints, it's a challenge even for pros.) So, don't expect perfect results, because you just won't be able to get that.