Reaqdy to bite the bullet for opti coat 2.o

unclestu

unclestu

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I plan on doing an opti Coat treatment on my two new Cadillac CTS'S. They are a coupe and a wagon. They are brand new 2011. My questions are as follows:

1) As the cars are brand new and there is absolutly no paint correction needed would it be OK to just wash, clay and chemicaly strip and clean the paint before the application of the Opti Coat or would it be better to do a light polish with some 85rd before the Opti Coat?

2) To do these two cars would I need one or two packages of Opti Coat 2.0?

Now for the really stupid question LOL
3) It has been written that after the Opti Coat has been applied you must wait for it
to flash.
What is meant by flash?

4) What would be recommended for removing anything that is on the paint from the dealer befor I apply the Opti Coat? Should I use Optimum power clean? or just an IPA wipe down?

Thanks

Stu
 
1. If it were me, I would still refine the surface with 85rd to get that better than new look, and really cleanse the paint. This is the last chance you get to touch it in a while, make sure it is perfect.

2. I think you will be fine with 1 tube. I used less than 10cc to do two standard sized vehicles. Prime the applicator pad with an X of product, then only 4-5 drops at a time until it stops spreading on the surface. If you are applying to a black vehicle, consider using a MF applicator pad.
The top tube is new, the bottom one I used to coat my Legacy, wife's Prius, and a set of wheels:
IMG8023-S.jpg


3. By flashing, the product goes from being wet on the surface to being completely clear. If you see any areas that are still wet, or rainbow color in appearance, this is a high spot that you should touch up with a microfiber cloth, otherwise it will dry hazy. In my experience and in a number of others I have read, the product flashes almost instantly. Experiment with the light you are using and the angle you are looking at the surface. Check each panel from multiple angles and light sources to make sure there are no high spots/spots that have not flashed.

4. I do an OPC soak and rinse (after polishing) followed by an IPA wipe down. IPA wipe down is recommended and used by myself and others.
 
unclestu said:
1) As the cars are brand new and there is absolutly no paint correction needed...

4) What would be recommended for removing anything that is on the paint from the dealer...
Click to expand...



Which is it, that there is no paint correction needed, or that the dealer put something on that needs to be removed? Because IME those are two mutually exclusive conditions. If the dealer touched the car, it is no longer "brand new". Even if you are lucky enough to have gotten the cars without the dealer doing prep, unless you took the thing right off the trailer and it still had all the film on it (even then I've had scuffs on the side where the driver rubbed against the dirty paint taking it off the trailer), it's going to have some fallout on it from transit and sitting on the lot.

If they are truly pristine, you should be able to just decon them and go, or has been suggested you can jewel them up a bit first.
 
Since even the most gentle claying can leave some marring on the finish I would probably jewel the paint before applying the Opti-Coat.

And the Menzerna PO85rd is an excellent choice.
 
Since dealers are notorious for telling the truth I'd treat the finish as I would any new car.


  • Wash
  • Clay
  • Polish - Menzerna PO85RD gray or blue pad
  • Foam
  • Power Wash
  • Dry
  • Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0
 
:iagree:

I'd wash the car thoroughly with Power Clean to reveal any dealer installed swirls, inspect the paint and then decide how to proceed. At minimum I would gloss the paint using Menz PO85RD and then rewash with PC. Once you get the Opti-Coat on the car it's gonna stay that way for a couple years. This is your only chance to get out any hairlines or swirls.
 
stu, i did the cts and srx and has about 5 cc left over. i did one mistake and was occasionally squirting the product onto the paint which is ok but i didnt see 3 drops hit the rear bumper. they dried and now need rubbing out. always put the product on the pad. two days after finishing the wifes car she ran through road paint yellow. thank goodness the opti coat was there the entire side needed cleaning. just a quick plastic razor blade. now how the hell do i do the wheel wells. another project. flashing will be real tough on the lighter colors. rub rub rub until it squeeks. you will develop a feel quickly. i topped the cts with fuzion and no problem whatsoever with shine/gloss. i will be using up the remainder for lots of little places. trunk plastic, hood plastic etc.. enjoy
 
BobbyG said:
Since dealers are notorious for telling the truth I'd treat the finish as I would any new car.


  • Wash
  • Clay
  • Polish - Menzerna PO85RD gray or blue pad
  • Foam
  • Power Wash
  • Dry
  • Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0
Click to expand...

Thanks for the quick reply Bobby,
I didn't see any mention in your reply about an IPA wipe down and by power wash are you meaning the Optimum Power Wash?
It seems like a pretty simple procedure. Oh I just noticed, in your reply you mention foam after the 85rd if I don't have a foam cannon should I just do the power wash twice?
Thanks

Stu
 
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