Reccomended polish for hard clearcoat (and ceramiclear)

11B250

11B250

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Hey there,

I put this here for mike to answer, but anyone with experience in this field can of course chime in...

I'm curious what the recommendation is for vehicles that have a factory hard clearcoat (like corvettes, or mercedes, porsche, bmw etc). I know some mercedes have the ceramiclear, but I don't think they have been using that for some time now (my '11 CL550 does not have the "C" in the paint code which is built in germany).

I know the rupes UHS was actually engineered for this, but I don't have a rupes, and I'm not sure when I'll be making a 500 dollar purchase towards one (currently using flex 3401).

I see wolfgang 3.0 says it was designed for clearcoats, but I think their products are too expensive. I was thinking maybe mckee's 37 polishes (compound, polish, jewel) but I don't see any mention of it being designed for hard clearcoats.

Thanks!

ps. I have read the ceramiclear post that was made in the past, which is why I'm trying to be cautious and wanting to ask...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...estions/47152-ceramiclear-paints-careful.html
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...iclear-paint-code-location-mercedes-benz.html <-- How I determined I don't think I have ceramiclear.
 
Menzerna makes short work of polishing German paint systems.

Start of with FG400 and SF3500 and you are set. What pads are you driving with the 3401?
 
I use the Blackfire SRC duo with great success. The compound is more like a heavy swirl remover which finishes out LSP ready. The polish is very versatile too and is icing on the cake when pared with the compound for a two-step polishing job.
 
Desertnate said:
I use the Blackfire SRC duo with great success. The compound is more like a heavy swirl remover which finishes out LSP ready. The polish is very versatile too and is icing on the cake when pared with the compound for a two-step polishing job.
Click to expand...

and that works with german clears? :)
 
I have been with mercs for the last 7 years, have 2 now, black metallic, and a single stage white (crazy hard)....

I have practically had to step up a level in pads and compounds to achieve parable correction on these... (relative to GM / Ford / Toyota / Mazda / Volvo)
To correct deeper scratches I am now on wool and rotary
To smooth these I am on DA and compound / heavy cut foam pads (LC blue and yellow, Scholl Blue spider and white spider) and typically Scholl s3 gold..
To refine I am using scholl blue s20+ blue spider through to scholl orange or LC orange
To Jewel I am on Car pro reflect and white pads.. (rotary)

Summary is you can get there on a DA and harder thinner foam but is isn't quick...

Biger issue is the orange peel.. i'm about to take that on Denim and rotary, then heavy cut and foam rotary, then finish with a DA.... likely another 20hrs on it........ thats another story..
 
Just to chime in...

The hardest paints I've ever worked on were on Audis. BUT I've also worked on Audis wit paint that was soft as butter so don't ever discount the importance of doing a Test Spot.


As for PPG Ceramiclear paints. I can't count how many times I've read someone somewhere state how hard "they think" these paints are?

I simply disagree.

Anytime I'm buffing on a Ceramiclear paint job I pay attention and my experience is that these are the nicest buffing paints on the market and the perfect balance between too soft and too hard.

The MOST IMPORTANT practice when it comes to Ceramiclear paints is to use the least aggressive approach so you PRESERVE the .02 mils of fumed mica that makes a Ceramiclear finish a Ceramiclear finish.

Also, owners of cars with Ceramiclear finishes need to know and understand what they have and then,

NEVER take their car to an automatic brush style car wash.

Never take their car to any type of hand wash car wash

Either take ownership of the car wash process and do-it-yourself or hire a professional detailer that knows how to carefully hand wash a car or take it to a touchless wash.


As for choosing products and pads for buffing out a daily driver, here's a good rule of thumb.

If a foam cutting pad and a quality compound doesn't remove all the deeper defects then chances are they are deep enough that you should learn to live with them instead of removing more and more precious clearcoat.

After a compound with quality pads and product the paint is going to look GREAT s then just polish it and seal it and move on to the next project in life. Drive the car an enjoy it, don't get so focused on removing each and ever defects as factory clearcoats are thin.I think I have an article on that somewhere around here...

:)
 
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