Recommendation on DA Polishers

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cleantechwa

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Hi All,

I am relatively new, worked on about 6 cars for Paint correction and Ceramic coating. I worked on Small sedans, large trucks, Cross overs and a SUV. I realized i need a second polisher so the helper and me can get through polishing the car fast, as its causing us to go slow and wasting time. Currently i use TORQ DA Polisher, i can switch between 5 inch to 3 inch backing plate. I am looking for a little better DA/Random polisher where i can switch plates, or can i use the regular rotary polishers (any recommendations) with the 6 cars i have under my belt. Appreciate all your help!

Best
 
I like the Rupes polishers, but if $400 is out of reach for you, I would go for the Griot's G9 (under $200) which has a lifetime warranty. The Flex 3401 is another good polisher, but then again your in the $400 range.
 
cleantechwa said:
Hi All,

I am relatively new, worked on about 6 cars for Paint correction and Ceramic coating. I worked on Small sedans, large trucks, Cross overs and a SUV. I realized i need a second polisher so the helper and me can get through polishing the car fast, as its causing us to go slow and wasting time. Currently i use TORQ DA Polisher, i can switch between 5 inch to 3 inch backing plate. I am looking for a little better DA/Random polisher where i can switch plates, or can i use the regular rotary polishers (any recommendations) with the 6 cars i have under my belt. Appreciate all your help!

Best
Click to expand...

I would go with a rotary (Flex PE 150) , especially if you're doing 2 stage corrections. You can get a 3 in. backing plate for it also.

Have the first guy blast it with the rotary and the second guy follows finishing with the da.

When done right it really does not take much to clean up after compounding with a rotary.

You will make some serious time doing it that way
 
Agree with 98...if doing 2 steps i would invest in the flex 14-2-150.

If you are still wanting to upgrade your da (which i would if working for money) i would invest in the flex supa beast(10-8-125). Run a 6 inch backing plate. It truely is a beast and will significantly reduce your machine time!

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
 
I don’t see a point in 1 guy polishing at a time and having to wait in order to begin a 2nd step.

Why not both knock out the vehicle at the same time? If he bought a G9 they could accomplish that.
 
Eldorado2k said:
I don’t see a point in 1 guy polishing at a time and having to wait in order to begin a 2nd step.

Why not both knock out the vehicle at the same time? If he bought a G9 they could accomplish that.
Click to expand...

If you're referring to my post, 2 guys would be polishing at the same time. The guy with the da would follow right behind the rotary. The rotary guy would be a panel or two ahead.
 
cleantechwa said:
Hi All,

I am relatively new, worked on about 6 cars for Paint correction and Ceramic coating. I worked on Small sedans, large trucks, Cross overs and a SUV. I realized i need a second polisher so the helper and me can get through polishing the car fast, as its causing us to go slow and wasting time. Currently i use TORQ DA Polisher, i can switch between 5 inch to 3 inch backing plate. I am looking for a little better DA/Random polisher where i can switch plates, or can i use the regular rotary polishers (any recommendations) with the 6 cars i have under my belt. Appreciate all your help!

Best
Click to expand...

How much experience do you or your helper have with a rotary polisher?
 
You dont need to be using a rotary right now
I agree with rsurfer except I do not recommend any griots polishers-
If you plan to be doing this quite a bit go with the Rupes or flex 3401- but you can still leave buffer trails with the 3401
 
Oh? How is that? Ive never seen buffer trails from the 3401 DA. Do you think it will cause it is direct drive?
 
I left buffer tails with a Flex "Finisher" on a black Mercedes hood. I was buffing off car wash brush marks using too coarse a pad (coarse blue Uro Tec) with an AIO. I went to a softer pad and more aggressive polish and all was well. My 90 yr old Godmother still loved it
 
Ive never heard of buffer trails from any da, forced or free spinning. They are pretty much stupid proof.

Maybe your talking about da haze?

If you are new to a rotary you shoukd practice on some junk panels first but rotarys are not as scary as folks make them out to be...unless your buffing on fresh or super soft paint. Everybody thats used them has had their first day using one.

Also depends like mentioned b4 if doing alot of 1 or 2 steps. No point in a rotary if all they pretty much do are 1 step jobs.

2 steps...then yes why not use a rotary/coumpound to cut then 2nd guy comes right behind to clean it up with maybe 3d 505 or speed.
Its Faster.

Like someone said b4 skip the griots and go the flex forced rotation route. Griits has its place but not for repeated jobs for profit. Flex will save you so much time....and TIME=MONEY.
It literally cut my machine time in half when i got my supa beast.


Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
 
98CayenneTA said:
If you're referring to my post, 2 guys would be polishing at the same time. The guy with the da would follow right behind the rotary. The rotary guy would be a panel or two ahead.
Click to expand...

I hear what you’re saying, it’s just that things don’t always go as planned.
 
I like the idea of knocking it down with a rotary first and having your DA helper simply 1 panel behind. You'd get a 2 step correction done almost as fast as going around the vehicle once.
 
I honestly haven’t used rotary polisher yet. So no experience at all? :-(
 
opie said:
Ive never heard of buffer trails from any da, forced or free spinning. They are pretty much stupid proof.

Maybe your talking about da haze?

If you are new to a rotary you shoukd practice on some junk panels first but rotarys are not as scary as folks make them out to be...unless your buffing on fresh or super soft paint. Everybody thats used them has had their first day using one.

Also depends like mentioned b4 if doing alot of 1 or 2 steps. No point in a rotary if all they pretty much do are 1 step jobs.

2 steps...then yes why not use a rotary/coumpound to cut then 2nd guy comes right behind to clean it up with maybe 3d 505 or speed.
Its Faster.

Like someone said b4 skip the griots and go the flex forced rotation route. Griits has its place but not for repeated jobs for profit. Flex will save you so much time....and TIME=MONEY.
It literally cut my machine time in half when i got my supa beast.


Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Seems like rotary is the way to go… can I use multiple backplates for flex?
 
98CayenneTA said:
I would go with a rotary (Flex PE 150) , especially if you're doing 2 stage corrections. You can get a 3 in. backing plate for it also.

Have the first guy blast it with the rotary and the second guy follows finishing with the da.

When done right it really does not take much to clean up after compounding with a rotary.

You will make some serious time doing it that way
Click to expand...

Flex would be ok for a guy who never used rotary polishers?
 
Thank you all for your responses!! Weird I subscribed for immediate notifications and the forum didn’t send me any notifications. I was wondering why no one responded !!
 
cleantechwa said:
Seems like rotary is the way to go… can I use multiple backplates for flex?
Click to expand...
Yes you can buy multiple different sizes of backing plates for a rotary. I use a 3 inch and a 6 inch. Flex makes damn good machines. If your looking to purchase a rotary i would go the flex route. Amoung many other reasons the big noticable difference is the wieght...they are pounds lighter than other brands.

Like i said b4, just get some junk panels to practice on so you can get a feel for it. Also when buffing...a lil tip...check the panel for how hot your making it. Heat is one main reason of how you burn through the clear. Edges of panels is another area to not spend to much time.

Just look up mike phillips as he has countless videos and threads on how to use a rotary machine. It will no doubt help you out when learning the rotary. I know it helped me, as i had nobody else teach me the ways of it

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
 
The versatility of BP sizes is why I use my rotary so much... 2" to 6". Simply unscrew and screw on the next size needed.

That plus the precision in tight spots i.e. no oscillating shadow of the pad and bp.
 
I own the G9 from Griots as well as the Bigfoot LHR21. Honestly both machines are fantastic. For the price the Griots is fantastic. Certainly less “refined” than the Rupes but for the price difference I can live with it. With the G9 you can swap between a 5” and 6” backing plate. You may even be able to find a deal where you get the G9 and G8 for less than a Rupes. Also just saw an Adams swirl killer combo with a 12mm and 15mm for $299. Good deal as well.
 
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