Recommendations for Black Acura TL that needs TLC

M

mustang1971

New member
Joined
Oct 12, 2013
Messages
9
Reaction score
0
I am new to the forum and have a couple of questions like I am looking for advice on.

1) As a fall back position, do you have recommendations for a good auto detailer in Atlanta (Mid-town toNortheast area preferred) that you would recommend.

2) We have a black 2000 Acura TL that our youngest daughter drives that has the scratches, tree sap, etc. you would expect from a car of this age. What would be your recommendations for steps to take, and products to use to bring this car to an appearance you would be proud of? I am not looking for a show car appearance, but would like to remove as much of the oxidation and scratches as possible, protect the car, and return the car to a nice appearance.

Where would you suggest I look on the site, or search for in order to get the best information as quickly as possible. I don't have hours to spend searching forums and would appreciate any guidance. I am sure I will need to invest in a rotary polisher such as the Porter Cable. What polishes, waxes, clay systems would you recommend?

I realize I am being selfish, but figure there are lots of folks here who are very experienced in detailing that can save me a lot of time.

Thanks in advance!
 
If people answer you're going to get a 50 different recommendations. If you don't have experience in detailing a rotary is not the place to start. Most people start with a Porter Cable DA style polisher. If you understand how to use a floor polisher you could probably start with the Flex 3401 VRG which works much faster. Or, you could start with a Rupes 15" which might be safer than the Flex. I've never used a Rupes but I believe you could do a nice job the first time out with it.

I don't personally know any detailers in your area but someone may chime in. If you want to start with the Porter Cable let me know and I'll sell you one that's been used twice. That's how long it took me to get ready for a Flex 3401 vrg HD.

Let's see ... tree sap... Goof Off on a MF towel and immediately wash off the residue. I wouldn't let Goof Off dwell on it for long at all. It takes it off in about 10 seconds. You'll need some good car wash soap and I'd use Carpro Iron X Snow Soap to get rid of microscopic iron particles embedded in the clear coat. Here's a link to the snow soap: CarPro Iron X Snow Soap, paint decontamination soap Rinse it off without letting it dry but leave it on and possible rewet so it has time to work well. Rinse well and clean your tires and wheels. Use a Daytona Speed brush which comes with Wolfgang tire and wheel cleaner right now. Here's a link: Wolfgang - Daytona Jr. Wheel Combo. Use multiple detailing brushes on your tires and wheels to you get all the areas. It looks nice to clean the wheel wells also. A long handled brush helps. You can always use an older MF towel to clean wheels. Once you've cleaned the wheels and tires and rinsed off the snow soap use a ph balanced car wash such as high foaming DP car shampoo. Link: DP Xtreme Foam Formula High Yield Foaming Auto Shampoo- Foamaster gun car wash You don't need a foam cannon or gun to use this soap but it helps. You can get a nice one at AG or a cheap one at Walmart or just use the soap with water in a bucket with a grit guard. Link: Grit Guard, Grit Guard insert, bucket grate, bucket grid, Two bucket washes are recommended but you can get by with one bucket it just depends on how far you're willing to go. 2 bucket wash method utilizes one bucket to rinse out dirty wash mitt prior to dipping back into the clean soapy water. This helps prevent adding in swirls while washing. Now you have it washed so let's dry it with a waffle weave guzzler MF towel. Link: The Guzzler Combo Kit Now that you've washed and dried the Acura it's time to check the paint utilizing teh baggie test or just go right to claying because I have a gut feeling it's necessary. Plus claying will help take off small specks of tree sap and other unwanted surface products. Link: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...nspect-above-surface-bonded-contaminants.html
Claying can be done with clay of course or a speedy towel my favorite, or nanoskins. Link: Detailer’s Speedy Surface Prep Towel Combo, clay towel, clay bar towel

After claying your paint should be ready to polish out. Some strategic taping is a good idea. Tape off elevated edges and any area splatter will be difficult to remove.

Choosing polisher, pad, and polishers takes experience so how to spoon feed you this part isn't easy. You want to remove as little clear coat as possible and still get what you want for shine. Most cars that have been neglected respond well to Menzerna FG400 on a tangerine pad then follow up with Menzerna SF4000 or 4500 on a white or cyan pad. Another option is Meguiars M105 on the tangerine pad followed by M205 on a white pad. Results may vary. BTW...I wouldn't recommend

You might want to try the book "The Art of Detaing" by Mike Phillips for better reading, better recommendations, a complete explanation, and a better outcome on what you're attempting to accomplish. Mike Phillips Detailing Book & DVD Combo, how to detail, how to use a polisher
 
Bryan is a top notch detailer in Atlanta----

Bryan Burnworth
Atlanta Car Detailing
Peachstate Detail LLC
Selected as one of the top nine detailers in the US by Autoweek
Follow Peachstate Detail LLC on Facebook here.

If you want to do this on your own you'll need to invest some time (not only correcting and protecting the paint, but study time reading and watching videos for technique) and money--

Here's some estimates--

Griots Garage Random orbital polisher $140 (DO NOT use a Rotary)--Could also use Harbor Frieght polisher for about $50

5" backing plate $15
10 Pads (4 orange, 3 green, 2 black, 1 red in Buff & Shine line) $60
Compound $10-25
Polish $10-25
Sealant or Wax $20-40
MF towels $20-50
Wash Mitt $10-20
Nanoskin Sponge $13 (in place of clay)
Lube for above (Optimum No Rinse) $16

Hope this helps!
 
mustang1971 said:
I am new to the forum and have a couple of questions like I am looking for advice on.

1) As a fall back position, do you have recommendations for a good auto detailer in Atlanta (Mid-town toNortheast area preferred) that you would recommend.

2) We have a black 2000 Acura TL that our youngest daughter drives that has the scratches, tree sap, etc. you would expect from a car of this age. What would be your recommendations for steps to take, and products to use to bring this car to an appearance you would be proud of? I am not looking for a show car appearance, but would like to remove as much of the oxidation and scratches as possible, protect the car, and return the car to a nice appearance.

Where would you suggest I look on the site, or search for in order to get the best information as quickly as possible. I don't have hours to spend searching forums and would appreciate any guidance. I am sure I will need to invest in a rotary polisher such as the Porter Cable. What polishes, waxes, clay systems would you recommend?

I realize I am being selfish, but figure there are lots of folks here who are very experienced in detailing that can save me a lot of time.

Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...

Sorry, didn't see this post first. (Replied to your other one already.) ;)

The PC is a random orbit unit (DA) not a rotary. You'd want to go for the PC or the GG6 if you're wanting to learn to do it yourself. It's a great hobby for sure and something that you will get a lot of personal satisfaction from.

I see you've got a recommendation for Bryan already, and yes he is quite talented. Not at all inexpensive however, but a great guy and his work stands for itself. There are only a few really high-end detailers in the Atlanta market, and they do tend to both be booked, and of course be reimbursed well for their talent. One of them I've worked with this year on several occasions including hi-line units, one being 355GTS that I told him then was a very rare color. I later looked it up on the 355 registry to find that it is one of one ever produced in those color combinations. :xyxthumbs: Bryan I have not worked with however, but again, his work is known to is top notch. Both of these guys will spend days on a vehicle really bringing out the best.

The Acura shouldn't be that hard. Tree sap maybe hit it with TarX, mineral spirits, IPA, clay, Nanoskin pad, even WD40, (I have them all, and have used them all at one point or another). Of course there are paint cleaners with mild abrasives as well such as Duragloss 101 (which I also have). Come to think of it maybe even using Eraser on it could work. (Have it too, just haven't tried it for sap.)

The DG101 may be all it needs, who knows. Knowing it's a Daily Driver "DD" and depending on how bad the etching is afterwards it may be fine to just hit it with Megs 151 Paint Conditioning Cream as an AIO. It can be used with several different pads and will finish down nice plus it leaves a bit of wax behind.

I have everything from Griot's polishes 1~4, AIO, glaze, boat loads of Meguar's of all shapes, sizes and cuts, even a Menzerna trio. ;)

Honestly it probably just needs a paint decon, good nanoskin/clay treatment and then either a light two-stage or the Megs 151. Follow that with any number of polymer sealants, like Megs 21 2.0 or even a WOWA sealant like Wolfgang or Blackfire (have both of them as well).

If you want to drop me an email at the addy on my sig line. I'd be more than happy to give you my number, (you can call anytime) and share anything and everything you'd like to know, (about what I know) with ya'. :)
 
I would second the Griot's Garage 6" random orbital for just starting out. Easy to learn on and good price point.

I'd give Meguiars Ultimate Compound a try using an orange CCS pad on the GG6. Probably will need at least 6 slow passes on that old of paint if it's never been polished. I wouldn't be surprised if you find some clear coat failure, like crows feet, on the hood. I found these on my 2003 Accord first time I compounded it this spring. Never noticed it until I cleaned up the paint...go figure.

After you Megs UC, you can throw a sealant on. Use the GG6 with a blue or red CCS pad.
 
Anthony,

FWIW, the reason I only mentioned AIO's and the like earlier is because; 1: you are not interested in a "show car finish" and 2: (the most important part) Acura's are known for having soft paint, (black being the worst of it) sometimes horrendously so.
For that matter black, from anyone is the softest due to the pigment being carbon black, whereas white tends to be the hardest, with titanium dioxide being the pigment there.

I have a feeling that your daughters car over the last 14 years has been run through more than it's share of car washes and is likely swirled to death. That will take it's toll on soft black for sure. Soft doesn't mean it can't be corrected, just that you have to be much less aggressive with it. Hence my suggestion for a decent AIO to start with. Can even use two different pads, one with light cutting and another with no cutting ability to finish down better. ;)

Although, the Menzerna trio of PG1000/S34A, PF2500/PO203, SF4000/PO106FA will make for an awesome finish even on soft black.;) Actually I doubt the PG1000 would be needed at all. (These are actually the ones I use.)

Getting back to what you might like to use on your cars....
There are literally dozens of options and they all vary depending on the paint. You own some with hard paint, and others with soft so there really isn't a 'right' or 'wrong' answer.

To work with the Acura and make it "something you'll be proud of", just depends on where you want to take it, (correction wise) and from there how you want to maintain it. It honestly doesn't make sense to do a 3 step paint correction then drive it through a automatic car wash with brushes whirling everywhere weekly or even monthly. :rolleyes: OTOH, once it's where you want it, it isn't that hard to keep it reasonably close to that point with proper washing and drying technique.

When my daughter was in college she managed to wreck her car THREE TIMES! (Only 1 being her fault.) Seems we were getting at least parts of it painted once a year for a while there! :eek: Luckily though, her 2006 Pontiac G6 GTP has reasonably hard paint, even the aftermarket paint. Just keeping it polished and a coat of M21 2.0 has kept it looking great.

My son otoh drives a 98 4Runner and we have been lucky with that one as far as the paint goes. Bought it as a one owner truck (father then son) with meticulous records on it. It'd never been painted but was in great overall shape on the exterior. It's a silver truck, all factory paint, and is hard as a rock. The SECOND DAY he drove it to school he sideswiped a little white Ford Ranger backing out of the parking space!
This:bat: then this :argue: then I wanted to do THIS! :bash:

Got lucky in that in ripped the stainless fender flair from the RF and only put a small crease above the bumper between the front of the fender up underneath the marker light. All the paint and scuffs buffed out, (of both vehicles) and his just needs a little PDR and you'd never know it was there. (I refuse to pay for it, that's a lesson he needs to learn on his own.)

He graduated last year and once he was out of school we took some time with it and removed the faded pin stripes, removed and repainted the luggage rack and did a total paint correction on it. That was back in January and it still looks fantastic! E en after he helped put all that work in it, seems I'm usually the one that starts the wash process only to have him come (all huffy and puffy) once his mother gets after him about ME washing the truck. :laughing: If only I could get him to keep it as clean as *I* would like him to keep it. :dunno:
 
mustang1971 said:
Thanks to all for the feedback and input:xyxthumbs:
Click to expand...

Hey no problem Anthony. Like I mentioned earlier, if you want to drop me an email I'll give you my cell # and be more than happy to help with whatever questions you may have.



Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using AG Online
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top