Recommendations on this? Escalade touch-up paint

GenesisCoupe

GenesisCoupe

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Hello Everyone,

I picked up a 1-step correction for this weekend, it is a Black 2007 Escalade. Part of the 1 step includes me doing the "best i can" on this scuff mark. It's pretty large in size but the owner did NOT want a repaint. He provided me a small touch up bottle.

Thoughts? Recommendations?

Thank You!!!!





 
Give the bottle back to him. You can compound, polish, seal, wax, etc., the light, white abrasions.

Large areas with the touch up will show. Especially after it's shiny in those areas. I didn't find my small dealer-touched-up spots in my black car until I clayed, etc. Now they stand right out.

Or, get him to sign something.

Airbrush and blending (at minimum!!) would be the closest to no show.
 
Thanks! There are some deeper grooves so maybe i can touch that up a little bit and just polish the rest out as best as i can.
 
GenesisCoupe said:
Thanks! There are some deeper grooves so maybe i can touch that up a little bit and just polish the rest out as best as i can.
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Might want to put adhesion promoter in the deep grooves first. If you only have spray, spray some in a cup and use a very fine brush or a sewing needle. Just a light coat or two.

You'll have to wait a day before messing with the touch-up paint area. Hair dryer or heat gun will help a little.
 
i recently did something similar, and told the customer that the only way to truly get rid of the damage would require a repaint. this is the best i could get from using my FLEX 3401 w/orange pad and FG-400. some were just to deep and down to bare metal
 
Most of the white paint transfer can be compounded and the deeper scratches filled with touch up paint. However, that ding near the bottom of the tail light looks like it will need a body shop.
 
#1...make sure you clearly understand what the customer expects as the final outcome.

Hopefully, the paint transfer will come right off. Beyond that???
 
I remember reading a really good post on this by Mike P. His recommendation is to work the area by hand first. Here's the link to his thread: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/28170-how-remove-paint-transfer.html

Here's a quote to sum it up: “Most of the time the paint transfer to your car's paint will be so strong that you risk heating up good paint to an extreme in your effort to remove the offending paint. A safe approach is to remove the offending paint transfer by hand as you can exert a lot of pressure to just 2-3 fingers to reduce your footprint or worked area to focus just on the transferred paint.

Then once you remove the paint transfer re-polish using a rotary buffer or whichever electric tool of choice you use to remove any scratches or marring you may have inflicted from the hand process.”

Hope that helps. Look forward to seeing your final results.
 
refreshauto said:
i recently did something similar, and told the customer that the only way to truly get rid of the damage would require a repaint. this is the best i could get from using my FLEX 3401 w/orange pad and FG-400. some were just to deep and down to bare metal
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That's great advice, i'll give that a go first.

Sicktred08fsi said:
I would have them sign a waiver too relieving you of liability.
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I would too, too bad he is out of town. But when we discussed he seemed to understand what i was telling him.

Rsurfer said:
Most of the white paint transfer can be compounded and the deeper scratches filled with touch up paint. However, that ding near the bottom of the tail light looks like it will need a body shop.
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Yes, by that taillight is the worst. I think he hit a concrete pillar or something. Thanks!
 
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