Remove Powerlock?

YankeeFan

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Prepping car for winter but having difficulty finding a thread that tells me if I need to do anything special to remove this?

Thanks,
Howard
 
Right now have Powerlock with Fuzion. Both were applied late June. Though was to put Powerlock back on with Collinite 476.
 
If you're still seeing strong beading then a strong prep wash and clay barring will probably not be enough to remove the remaining sealant & wax. You could go over the car with a paint cleanser and a black or white pad if you don't want to remove clear coat. Or you could go over the car with a finishing polish and a black (or white) pad and perform a small amount of correction & gloss enhancement. All three processes can get you to a clean surface to reapply the Powerlock. You need to decide at which starting point you are at.
 
If you're still seeing strong beading then a strong prep wash and clay barring will probably not be enough to remove the remaining sealant & wax. You could go over the car with a paint cleanser and a black or white pad if you don't want to remove clear coat. Or you could go over the car with a finishing polish and a black (or white) pad and perform a small amount of correction & gloss enhancement. All three processes can get you to a clean surface to reapply the Powerlock. You need to decide at which starting point you are at.

+1 on this one. This is what I would do. I will do this regardless if it needs it or not if I am changing the brand or type of LSP.
 
If you're still seeing strong beading then a strong prep wash and clay barring will probably not be enough to remove the remaining sealant & wax. You could go over the car with a paint cleanser and a black or white pad if you don't want to remove clear coat. Or you could go over the car with a finishing polish and a black (or white) pad and perform a small amount of correction & gloss enhancement. All three processes can get you to a clean surface to reapply the Powerlock. You need to decide at which starting point you are at.

Huh, curious, what if I use a prep wash to remove the wax, this may also remove powerlock in some areas but at least the wax is gone. Now reapply powerlock, 24 hrs later apply Collinite. Since the surface is clear of wax wouldn't the sealant be strong?
 
You just don't really ever know what you're removing and what is left behind. If you're trying to avoid using a polisher, you can do your prep wash, clay bar (if needed) and then wipe the car down with something like Kleen-Strip Prep-All. It is pretty cheap for a gallon at somewhere like CARQUEST. If its good enough to prep panel prior to painting it should be more than good enough to provide a clean surface for the Powerlock. It should do some serious damage to the 4 month old Powerlock and may remove it entirely. The paint should be squeaky clean after that.
 
I like to remove any traces of the previous LSP even if I'm putting a fresh layer of the same stuff right back on. My reasoning is based on thinking there may be some stronger areas of the previous LSP here or there. I don't like the idea of trusting the new, fresh layer trying to bond to any of the remaining previous layer and having both give up their grab from my paint.

I've never been lucky enough to have PL last more than 3-4 months on my black car in FL. Depending on how your's was driven and stored you may or may not have much of it left. You say it's still beading well so you may be luckier than me with it. Plus, like you say, if you've topped it with Fuzion, did it prolong the life of the PL.

I also feel the need to at least clay and then polish after 4 months anyway and that satisfies me that I've removed the last layer of PL.
 
Yes, its still beading quite well. Think you getting those afternoon showers often and my car parked in the garage each night certainly make the difference. Will see if northeast has a snowy winter and how PL holds up.
 
I like Mother's Step 1 for this task. Very limited polishing, probably the pad doing most of the work. It also leaves the paint super squeaky clean. Like all Mother's products it is very user friendly. And it's cheap!
 
You just don't really ever know what you're removing and what is left behind. If you're trying to avoid using a polisher, you can do your prep wash, clay bar (if needed) and then wipe the car down with something like Kleen-Strip Prep-All. It is pretty cheap for a gallon at somewhere like CARQUEST. If its good enough to prep panel prior to painting it should be more than good enough to provide a clean surface for the Powerlock. It should do some serious damage to the 4 month old Powerlock and may remove it entirely. The paint should be squeaky clean after that.


Yes, I will try to just use a chemical to remove the wax, if PL goes with it that's fine as I'll apply a new coat anyway. Maybe next year I can plan to polish but right now all that stuff is packed away in the basement. Appreciate the help!
 
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