removing bonded contaminants and polishing in ONE step???

mwoywod

mwoywod

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Hey guys, let me start by saying I understand that the decontamination process exists for a reason and I'm not asking this question so I can completely skip the claying process.

I'd like to know if anyone has used a 1-step polish or AIO that in their experience is slightly better at breaking down and removing extremely LIGHT contamination than others? For example, in my experience, Meguiars D151 Paint reconditioning cream is WAY better at removing water spots and light tree sap mist than other AIO polishes like HD Speed and Menzerna 3n1. I know this is probably primarily due to the aggressiveness of the abrasives. But it got me thinking that maybe some of you guys have had a similar experience with a polish, cleaner wax, or AIO that chemically works better at removing small amounts of bonded contaminants to the point where you've actually been able to combine the decontamination process and polishing process together as 1-step.

There are polishes that have successfully combined the polishing and PROTECTION process into 1-step and although they may not be the best at refining the surface nor the best at protecting the paint, these products do exist. So that's why I thought maybe there have also been products developed that could decontaminate and polish? Looking forward to hearing your experiences!!

Thanks guys!!!
 
Good post and questions...


mwoywod said:
But it got me thinking that maybe some of you guys have had a similar experience with a polish, cleaner wax, or AIO that chemically works better at removing small amounts of bonded contaminants to the point where you've actually been able to combine the decontamination process and polishing process together as 1-step.
Click to expand...


Remember, for stubborn bonded contaminants, softer foam pads, even polishing pads can glide over contaminants instead of kicking them off or abrading them off.

The more you increase the cut of the pad the great the chance to leave pad marring or a combination of pad marring and abrasive marring from a one-step process.


:)
 
Mike Phillips said:
Good post and questions...





Remember, for stubborn bonded contaminants, softer foam pads, even polishing pads can glide over contaminants instead of kicking them off or abrading them off.

The more you increase the cut of the pad the great the chance to leave pad marring or a combination of pad marring and abrasive marring from a one-step process.


:)
Click to expand...

will compounding also remove bonded contaminants like clay does? i was wondering about that i would think that it would
 
^Yes it can remove them, but if you care about what you are working on you would want to remove them before the compounding step.

If you care about the paint, you probably would not want to have iron deposits, hardened sap, tar with road grit mixed in, and other things collecting on the pad face while you are trying to improve the surface.
 
Short cuts lead to poor results. Some people don't care what the car looks like. I personall y don't do just one step. It has to look good to me more so than the customer.
 
WAXOFF said:
Short cuts lead to poor results. Some people don't care what the car looks like. I personall y don't do just one step. It has to look good to me more so than the customer.
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You are really so process driven and focused on what is most important to YOU that you wouldn't even consider that what is most important to your customer may differ? By your "no shortcuts" allowed logic, Even with hardly any bonded contaminants, you will always insist on using your clay bar to systematically remove every single bonded contaminant on the entire car......because god forbid you use a clay bar alternative to speed up the process and miss a few contaminants.

As you implied, I'm clearly a hack for focusing on learning new "short cuts" to add to my detailing process in hopes of giving my customer more of what they want. Unlike you on the other hand..... a true professional, that's focused one thing. Yourself. Way to go boss.
 
Mantilgh said:
mwoywod, have you tried the clay disks for the DA like Nanoskin sells?

Nanoskin Car Care Products, nanoskin autoscrub system

They can take a lot of work out of the claying process if you are planning on polishing after. Spots that would take many passes with clay, clay towel/mitt are removed quickly.
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yes I do use the nanoskin autoscrub system and love it. Although I do wish they were a bit more durable. Thank you so much for the suggestion
 
There have been times after i've used my nano mitt and while compounding, or at least cutting more aggressively for scratches and swirls, that i will find a tiny piece of debris still stuck on the paint...i.e. above the paint. Many times the compound action doesn't even remove it as they seem almost super glued on. However, it doesn't surprise me when that happens. To me its a density thing...clay or nanoskin like material is similar or harder than the debris its trying to remove. A liquid product on a flexible foam pad is less dense and doesn't have as much "hardness" to work it off the paint. Yup, there are abrasives in the compound but they are so fine they are probably just shining up the debris. I also have thought a chemical based paint cleaner product may be more effective...Nope.

I get a neighbors car that lives outside and under a tree. That car always has these little blackish specks that, like i said, seem to be super glued on. Maybe the size of a pin head. He is a classic AIO job customer. He'll run it through the tunnel wash several times before long. I use my nanoskin over it (maybe 10-15 mins of time) and i always find a few of those little buggers after! I can AIO right on over them and they stay. I toothpick flick them off.

I mention all of this in response to your question of compounding or even just polishing effectively decontaminating the above surface debris. It probably does for the easily removed stuff but not as much as a dedicated clay or more thorough nanoskin effort. Plus, as previously mentioned, I don't want my pad to pick up that stuff either.

(Basically that's my long winded explanation of what Mike P. just said above!)
 
mwoywod said:
You are really so process driven and focused on what is most important to YOU that you wouldn't even consider that what is most important to your customer may differ? By your "no shortcuts" allowed logic, Even with hardly any bonded contaminants, you will always insist on using your clay bar to systematically remove every single bonded contaminant on the entire car......because god forbid you use a clay bar alternative to speed up the process and miss a few contaminants.

As you implied, I'm clearly a hack for focusing on learning new "short cuts" to add to my detailing process in hopes of giving my customer more of what they want. Unlike you on the other hand..... a true professional, that's focused one thing. Yourself. Way to go boss.
Click to expand...

Are you Darren Priest?
 
i was just wondering because i dont think my eagle one mitt did a good job it was my first time using it but there was probably nothing on the car i clay it with fine grade clay all the time
 
Remember clay and chemical decontamination agents are relatively new about 30 years ago clay may have only been used in body shop environments, so I would say either contaminates where still embedded after all steps or they were removed via compounding, polishing, cleaner wax. When I was in the MILITARY (GERMANY) learning how to detail (mid - late 80's), we never had clay or chemicals (Change colors) we washed,rubbing compound, buffing compound, (hand glaze) hand wax. we didn't even know about the baggie test, lol old school detailer just went in, new (young guys wash vehicle, old timers give you a hand on demo of grinder sorry I mean rotary buffer and their watchful eye and guide you, you would have to wipe off all product and things of the caliber, they would do most of buffing (machine) but coach you awhile until you pretty much had it down but that would be months, lol. Damn sorry flashback sorry for rambling,lol
 
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