Removing Emblems??? and detailing mystic paint!!

WiSh4SvTs

WiSh4SvTs

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First off I would like to get some advise on how to remove the side emblems on my car without hurting the paint underneath? Theyre attached with double sided tape and im getting new ones as these are old so I dont care about the emblems themselves, just the paint.

Second, My paint is making it difficult to see any imperfections like the swirls or hazing. I know is there but the work light is bright and is making the paint shift damatically, making it hard to see if its done or not. I can see the swirls in the sun but i cant detail in direct sunlight.Any ideas?

Also I'm using 105, 205, 85rd. Most of the paint is just light swirls so it doesnt really need 105 on an orange pad. So would yall step the 105 down to a white pad, then 205 on a white, or not use the 105 at all and go with 205 on an orange then 205 on white? Either way its followed up with 85rd on a gray pad. Or maybe even 205 orange and 85rd white??
Im kinda lost here??

I only needed 105 on a couple of spots, I took a couple before after pics. It didnt get rid of it totally but alot better than it was.....

Before:
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg254/BRITTNEY2007690_2008/166.jpg

After:
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg254/BRITTNEY2007690_2008/181.jpg
 
M205 is a very light cleaner/polish, it's probably not going to remove scratches as deep in your before photo but you can try?

One thing for sure, if a little buffing removes a little bit of the defects than a lot of buffing with the same product and pad will remove more and more of the defects, so it's kind of up to you as to how much time you want to invest.

You can use M105 with polishing pads and I even think I've seen a picture of Mike Pennington using UC with a finishing pad.

SMAT product offer a lot of options just by changing your pad type, pressure and buffing time or buffing cycle.


Before
166.jpg



After
181.jpg




Also, in your post you have the correct URL Address for your pictures, you just need to click on this little button and copy and paste the URL Address into the dialog box to make them show up instead of the URL.


Insert Image Button -->
insertimage.gif



:xyxthumbs:
 
I used a hair dryer to heat up and soften the adhesives on the emblem and then used dental floss to saw through it. It works surprisingly well and it did not damage the paint.
 
termigator said:
I used a hair dryer to heat up and soften the adhesives on the emblem and then used dental floss to saw through it. It works surprisingly well and it did not damage the paint.
Click to expand...
That's some great advice the dental floss works great.I actually have some special tools for removing interior parts and emblems without scratching the finish it's called a bone tool made of hard plastic and has a pointed end.Volvo recommends this tool and that's what we use in my shop.Also use some 3M adhesive removal to remove the left over tape.
 
termigator said:
I used a hair dryer to heat up and soften the adhesives on the emblem and then used dental floss to saw through it. It works surprisingly well and it did not damage the paint.
Click to expand...

+1 Easy, effective and cheap. Like Harley guy, I've also used 3M adhesive remover for the left over residue.
 
I just had a flex fuel decal removed by an autobody shop and they left 3 little chips in the paint!
I should have done it myself.
I have been told to use some monofilament fishing line like 20 pound test and just get it underneath the decal and saw back and forth with the fishing line. Then you need some glue cleaner to get the glue off the paint.
 
1flyfisher said:
I just had a flex fuel decal removed by an autobody shop and they left 3 little chips in the paint!
I should have done it myself.
I have been told to use some monofilament fishing line like 20 pound test and just get it underneath the decal and saw back and forth with the fishing line. Then you need some glue cleaner to get the glue off the paint.
Click to expand...

I've thought about the fishing line bit too, especially when the the floss broke while I was doing it. I'm thinking braided fishing line might work better. It's thinner, stronger and I think it would have more of a sawing effect as opposed to the slickness of mono.
 
I'm sure either would work just fine.


termigator said:
I've thought about the fishing line bit too, especially when the the floss broke while I was doing it. I'm thinking braided fishing line might work better. It's thinner, stronger and I think it would have more of a sawing effect as opposed to the slickness of mono.
Click to expand...
 
ThanKs alot guys.... Got it off easily! I just rubbed the glue off with my finger and the clay bar took care of what was left.
 
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