removing oil, sludge in the engine bay
- Thread starter mikbik
- Start date
tedj101
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- Oct 15, 2013
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I used to use Griot's Engine cleaner and a cheap paintbrush followed by a pressure wash.
I have recently tried Maguires Super Degreaser which is a bit more versatile.
Both work well.
<TED>
Gunk reminds me of the good old days!!!! That stuff always worked fantastic when I worked on old beaters. I still keep a couple cans around for the lawn equipment.
Mike Phillips
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- Dec 5, 2022
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sadler
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- Sep 8, 2013
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A couple cans of gunk gel, a toothbrush, a toilet bowl brush(i know but works great in areas), and a medium size hand brush and go to town. rinse with high pressure, but don't spray sensitive electricals with high pressure. I find simple green work good too but don't use it on plastic since it will leave a white residue in scratches.
cfiiman
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- Jul 22, 2014
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Best thing I have found for removing actual oil is brake cleaner. Obviously you have to be very careful about overspray, breathing it, and if the surface you are spraying won't be harmed, but you literally spray it at the oil and it eats it away. I only have done this on my daily driver that had a small valve cover gasket leak and was very difficult to get in there to clean the area. A few spritz of brake cleaner and it was clean. This obviously would be for isolated areas with thick residue that can't be removed by another means.
BobbyG
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- Dec 29, 2009
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That stuff works really well Bill and I even like its smell..... I started using it in the mid 70's to clean engines and apparently they've kept the formula pretty much the same....I think!
oldmodman
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- Sep 25, 2007
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I still use it and I buy it in gallon tins. Then I use a garden sprayer to make it easier to reach the hard to reach areas.
They still have it from time to time in gallons at Walmart.
- Thread starter
- #10
I saw a lot of different gunk engine cleaner/degreaser ranging from foam, original, hd gel? which one of this will solve a really 'bad' dirty engine bay.
after cleaning, what would be a good second stage to make it shine and maintain that new engine shine 'gray clean look'
after cleaning, what would be a good second stage to make it shine and maintain that new engine shine 'gray clean look'
Mike Phillips
Active member
- Dec 5, 2022
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Did I miss it? Did the OP ever tell us what he was working on? :dunno:
Actually I agree with you, a toilet bowl brush, ( clean one), works great for getting into hard to reach areas and then just toss it when you're done.
I don't recommend people to use my method to their own cars but here's what works for me to remove decades of sludge...
Here's a shot of the engine compartment painted with Hammerite...
Actually I agree with you, a toilet bowl brush, ( clean one), works great for getting into hard to reach areas and then just toss it when you're done.
I don't recommend people to use my method to their own cars but here's what works for me to remove decades of sludge...
Here's a shot of the engine compartment painted with Hammerite...
Don M
Active member
- Jan 8, 2010
- 2,254
- 14
Did I miss it? Did the OP ever tell us what he was working on? :dunno:
Actually I agree with you, a toilet bowl brush, ( clean one), works great for getting into hard to reach areas and then just toss it when you're done.
I don't recommend people to use my method to their own cars but here's what works for me to remove decades of sludge...
No, he never said ...makes me wonder too.
Mizzoutiger
New member
- Dec 28, 2012
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For engine bay, I use P21S Total Auto Wash is German nobility in a spray bottle! to clean and Sonus Trim & Motor Kote, acrylic protectant, black plastic protectant, engine dressing to seal.
Mike Phillips
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- Dec 5, 2022
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I would say most people would not care for the "hammered" look as compared to normal high gloss finish.
The benefit to the Rustoleum Hammered paints is they fill and cover like a sun-of-gun and touch-ups are very easy to blend.
I've never used the Rust Bullet brand you mention but the Rustoleum Hammered line of paints are also available in non-hammered or high gloss finish.