Removing Orange Peel Before Clear Coating?

[Marty]

Hi. I am new at doing any of this. I am repairing and painting parts of my 08 black Honda Fit that were scratched and gouged by vandals. I will be painting with aerosol cans. If I notice orange peel before clear coating, I would think wet sanding is done before clear coating. Is that correct? If so, what grit-2000, 2500? I'd do this by hand. I also noticed some CarPro pads for a circular polisher, which I have, that are advertised to be used for this after clear coating. Could they be used before clear coating if that's done?

Thanks for helping,
Marty

 

[Stampe]

Hi. I am new at doing any of this. I am repairing and painting parts of my 08 black Honda Fit that were scratched and gouged by vandals. I will be painting with aerosol cans. If I notice orange peel before clear coating, I would think wet sanding is done before clear coating. Is that correct? If so, what grit-2000, 2500? I'd do this by hand. I also noticed some CarPro pads for a circular polisher, which I have, that are advertised to be used for this after clear coating. Could they be used before clear coating if that's done?

Thanks for helping,
Marty

If you are using base coat you can't sand on that, if you do you need to put another layer of bc on the surface again.

The prep befor painting with the bc is werry important. Just get the surface you gonna paint as flat as possible. After you have clear coated you can do corrections.

Sorry for my bad English

 

[Marty]

Hi. Thanks very much for getting back to me. I was wondering about sanding just bc after using aerosol cans because of the thickness of paint I'd be applying. Have you had any experience with those CarPro pads using for removing orange peel after cc?

Thanks again for your time,
Marty

 

[Stampe]

I am not rely sure I understand you, re you thinking about sanding the bc because you are applying to mutch bc?

The only things I concentrate on when I am painting.

Metallic bc - make sure it looks dappled? Don't know if it is the right word.

Solid bc - I just make sure I overlay the surface, with paint.

There is nothing special you can do about the structure at that time, the only thing that you can do that influence is the prep work at that time.

Cc - there you have something to work with but it is hard to compare aresol cans with a real paint gun ( iwata ) but what I do there, I apply 1 layer pretty thick, and then wait a while and then apply one more and I try to duplicate the structure Of surrounding panels. Hope this helps

No I have not tried the discs :-(

Kind regards
Magnus

 

[rmagnus]

Aersol cans can be sprayed pretty well. Depends what parts you are painting as to the process. Basically avoid spraying dry this may be what you are referring to as too orange peel in the base coat.

Clear coat should be 2k clear. Spray a tack coat followed by 3-4 wet coats with flash time I between the wet coats. Wet sand with automotive sand paper and machine polish.

Wear a respirator mask and gloves for protection.

 

[BillE]

Maybe I'm missing something (sure wouldn't be the first time), but I can't see any reason why you couldn't sand the base prior to shooting the clear.

The only thing that I see where a problem may arise is, sanding thru the base and possibly have too smooth a surface (not enough 'bite') for the clear to adhere to.

Bill

 

[erichaley]

Aersol cans can be sprayed pretty well. Depends what parts you are painting as to the process. Basically avoid spraying dry this may be what you are referring to as too orange peel in the base coat.

Clear coat should be 2k clear. Spray a tack coat followed by 3-4 wet coats with flash time I between the wet coats. Wet sand with automotive sand paper and machine polish.

Wear a respirator mask and gloves for protection.

I use SprayMax 2K Clear, and IME, it finishes out much smoother if you spray at a distance of about 10", and make two passes per coat. This results in a heavier, wetter coat.

The other thing to watch out for is something called "urethane wave", and is something you'll really only see after wet sanding. If you look at the panel you'll see a certain waviness to the reflection. Chasing after it with 1000 grit and higher sandpaper will not remove it as the sandpaper will just ride along the texture, remove clear, and drive your blood pressure through the roof.

To eliminate urethane wave, block the surface using 800 or 600 grit sandpaper on a long, firm sanding block. This will shave off the peaks of the wave and level the surface.

There's lots to say on this topic, so please feel free to ask any questions.

 

[rmagnus]

Maybe I'm missing something (sure wouldn't be the first time), but I can't see any reason why you couldn't sand the base prior to shooting the clear.

The only thing that I see where a problem may arise is, sanding thru the base and possibly have too smooth a surface (not enough 'bite') for the clear to adhere to.

Bill

erichaley provided you some good info.

Only reason to sand base coat is it wasn't sprayed correctly to start with. If its not right by all means corrct it. All paint systems have a process and instructions. Unlike detailing they should be followed. Detailing allows for much greater variance and experimentation.

I've mostly familiar with House of Kolor urethaines and clears. Some systems use a mechanical bond and some use a chemical bond. Mechanical allows you to sand using sanding scratches to allow the paint to bond or bite.

Following instructions means shooting the paint within the window for each coat. Manufactures put a lot of research into their instructions and it's usually best to follow them.

With the lower cost of paint guns today if you have a compressor get a HVLP spray gun vs aerosol cans. I understand when just touching up parts thanks can be more convenient but spray guns allow better adjustments.

 

[Stampe]

Maybe I'm missing something (sure wouldn't be the first time), but I can't see any reason why you couldn't sand the base prior to shooting the clear.

The only thing that I see where a problem may arise is, sanding thru the base and possibly have too smooth a surface (not enough 'bite') for the clear to adhere to.

Bill

It is like rmagnus says and...

Bc should just have a even surface, if you sand it it will have a different appearance, so I suggest to never ever sand unless you are planing to paint with bc again!

And if you sand on metallic bc you will effect it even more since you will sand on the ( don't know if I translate it right now ) effect pigments? In the bc.

 

[erichaley]

It is like rmagnus says and...

Bc should just have a even surface, if you sand it it will have a different appearance, so I suggest to never ever sand unless you are planing to paint with bc again!

And if you sand on metallic bc you will effect it even more since you will sand on the ( don't know if I translate it right now ) effect pigments? In the bc.

Exactly. There are few, if any, practical reasons for sanding a successful base coat of a base coat / clear coat finish. If sanding is necessary, starting over should be ranked higher on your list of options.

 

[BillE]

Thanx guys!

It all makes a LOT of sense (now).

Thanx again for the answers...

Bill