Removing polishing compound?
- Thread starter FishyX
- Start date
Paul A.
New member
- Dec 21, 2007
- 5,276
- 1
Good ole clean MF towel. If you're getting stuck on small patches you're using too much or overextending your pad saturation. In that case change out to a fresh pad with less product and run over the patches again.
I also love Car Pro Eraser for dealing with stubborn residue.
I also love Car Pro Eraser for dealing with stubborn residue.
DaveT435
Active member
- Jun 23, 2012
- 3,982
- 0
If it's a sealant I would say IPA wipe down. If it's actually a coating I will usually use the manufacturer of the coating brand paint cleaner.
TiredOfPaintStains
New member
- Aug 2, 2017
- 33
- 0
I'm not a pro by all means, but I found using the correct MF towel and Mike Philips 10% IPA dilution works for me. When I say the correct MF towel, I mean some MF towels don't wipe well, they smear. I haven't tried ALL the MF towels, but Meguiars MF towel works well and fits the bill. This towel also doesnt scratch soft paint like some has for me. However, it can leave very fine lint on the surface.
Mike Phillips
Active member
- Dec 5, 2022
- 51,004
- 6
Are you going from a polishing/compound straight to sealing?
If so, what polishing compound?
What are you using to "seal" with?
Little details can make a huge difference.
Mike Phillips
Active member
- Dec 5, 2022
- 51,004
- 6
And just to note so there's no confusion...
The ONLY reason I wrote the below article was because a YEAR before I finally broke down and wrote it there were a few super smart experts telling everyone on this forum to wipe their paint down with IPA.
Except for one thing - they never included ANY EXTRA INFORMATION. Just a one-liner like this,
"use IPA to wipe the paint"
I know from first hand experience that if too strong a solution of IPA is accidently left on the surface it can harm the paint.
So I asked for someone else to make up for their expertise (or lack thereof), and write an article. NO ONE took on the responsibility for one year. So finally, in an effort to provide REAL helpful and accurate information I wrote the article. It taught me that a lot of people like to pretend to be an expert but when it comes to actually doing a little research and then typing out something they can attach their name to - crickets.
Note I my self don't use IPA. Never have, rarely ever do unless it's all that's around and NOW DAYS there are so many real options on the AG store I don't think I'll ever use IPA. Didn't before I wrote the article, never did after I wrote the article. I wrote the article to make-up for other people's lack of helpful information and their willy-nilly manner of just slinging their stupid advice all over the blogosphere.
Below the article.
Note the word important is RED and BOLD and then you learn why from y research for writing the article.
And then for this post, I'm going to make another pertinent portion bold red. In the second paragraph, the first sentence that is now in red font, that's me being very very nice by not stating the actual reason for writing the article and naming names.
How to Mix IPA for Inspecting Correction Results
WARNING
Do not chemically strip FRESH PAINT. Fresh paint has not fully cross-linked, dried and hardened. Introducing any type of solvent to the surface and allowing it to dwell could have a negative effect on the paint.
Note: The below article is NOT an official recommendation by Mike Phillips or Autogeek. It is an attempt to clear up any confusion on the topic of chemically stripping paint with the common products used for this procedure as discussed on detailing discussion forums. If you choose to chemically strip your car's paint, or your customer's car paint, all the risk is yours. Anytime you use a new product or procedure, it's a great idea to first test in an inconspicuous area and check the results before moving forward.
Common, easily found options for Isopropyl Alcohol also called IPA
Anyone wanting to use IPA I recommend reading the entire article.
How to Mix IPA for Inspecting Correction Results
Me?
I tend to use either Wolfgang Perfekt Paint Prep or BLACKFIRE Crystal Coat Paint Prep, or CarPro Erasure, or GYEON Prep.
Heck I would drive to Lowe's and buy de-odorized Mineral Spirits before I used straight IPA. Good enough for the chemists at Meguiar's, good enough for me.
TiredOfPaintStains
New member
- Aug 2, 2017
- 33
- 0
thanks for clearing it up Mike. Now, you just added more stuff to my shopping list...=p
- Thread starter
- #10
Are you going from a polishing/compound straight to sealing?
If so, what polishing compound?
What are you using to "seal" with?
Little details can make a huge difference.
I use Ultimate compound and Ultimate polish. Lately I've been sealing with the DG 111/601 combo.
dlc95
Well-known member
- May 18, 2013
- 6,062
- 26
I've used that combo a lot, and have never used any sort of panel wipe with it.
I also like using 111 after Menzerna SF4000, which is a pretty oily polish, and haven't seen any type of negative effect.
I think I remember Mike P saying that if the instructions don't say to strip the paint, then it's not necessary to strip the paint.
The label on 111 indicates that it can remove tree sap, and bugs. I tend to think it wouldn't have any issue with whatever Ultimate Polish might leave behind.
I use M105/M205, so M205 before I seal. The M205 removes easily with MFs and ONR solution at QD strength. The M105 can be hard to remove. If were going to seal right after using M105, I would just hit with my buffer, a soft pad, and whatever sealant I was going to use. It makes a sealant/M105 film that's easy to wipe off. Then get a fresh pad, hit it again with sealant, and you're done.
TTQ B4U
Well-known member
- Jan 20, 2016
- 5,504
- 70
i'm with several of the others here in using CarPro Eraser. Works great and tends to provide a type of lubrication vs feeling dry and potentially marring the paint yet leaves no residue. It goes a long way so buying say a 32oz bottle is good for a while for me.
