Repainted hood quality compared to oem?

[fightnews]

I have a chance to get my hood repainted in a couple weeks for 500. I'm wondering if it will look showroom new when done assuming the guy does decent quality work.

It's not in too bad shape to a normal person it just has a lot of stone chips and little pits when you look close. It is Oem now. If I get the respray does the value automatically go down?

I figure if I have him respray he can go heavy on the clear then I can sand and buff to perfection?

 

[FUNX650]

I have a chance to get my hood repainted
in a couple weeks for 500. I'm wondering
if it will look showroom new when done
assuming the guy does decent quality work.

It's not in too bad shape to a normal person
it just has a lot of stone chips and little pits
when you look close.

It is Oem now. If I get the respray does
the value automatically go down?

I figure if I have him respray he can go
heavy on the clear then I can sand and
buff to perfection?

•Diminished Value?
-I’m not sure if this re-spray/repair can be
categorized as such; it’s being done mostly
as a cosmetic procedure...not because it
incurred damage(s) from being in an accident.


Quality work:
•I’ll try my best to paraphrase what I’ve
seen Mike Phillips post before:
-‘The quality of the paint job hinges on the
guy that does the “cut & buff”.’

-As such:
I personally wouldn’t accept, and sign-off on
the re-spray, if it wasn’t “cut & buffed” to show-
room new condition—(that’s an integral part
of the overall paint job that I’m paying for).

•Then again:
-I keep in mind that the lighting in most
Showrooms isn’t intended to perform as
“swirl finders”.


Bob

 

[RaskyR1]

$500 seems a bit low IMO but as long as the painter is properly prepping and sanding out the pits/chips, is using quality paint and materials, AND he know's what he's doing. It should look as good as the OEM paint.

Keep in mind it may need some wet sanding for texture match and denibbing of dust specs. If so it will almost certainly require someone else "you" to properly finish the paint as Bob noted above.

Is it a reputable shop doing the work or some friend in his garage?

I would also be concerned about color match to the adjacent panels. What color is the vehicle?

 

[fightnews]

•Diminished Value?
-I’m not sure if this re-spray/repair can be
categorized as such; it’s being done mostly
as a cosmetic procedure...not because it
incurred damage(s) from being in an accident.


Quality work:
•I’ll try my best to paraphrase what I’ve
seen Mike Phillips post before:
-‘The quality of the paint job hinges on the
guy that does the “cut & buff”.’

-As such:
I personally wouldn’t accept, and sign-off on
the re-spray, if it wasn’t “cut & buffed” to show-
room new condition—(that’s an integral part
of the overall paint job that I’m paying for).

•Then again:
-I keep in mind that the lighting in most
Showrooms isn’t intended to perform as
“swirl finders”.


Bob

I figure if its not perfect I can do a cut and buff myself? Maybe ask the guy to use extra clear coat?

The car is going in for a new bumper and that will be painted so I could hold off and see how that comes out before I do the hood

 

[fightnews]

$500 seems a bit low IMO but as long as the painter is properly prepping and sanding out the pits/chips, is using quality paint and materials, AND he know's what he's doing. It should look as good as the OEM paint.

Keep in mind it may need some wet sanding for texture match and denibbing of dust specs. If so it will almost certainly require someone else "you" to properly finish the paint as Bob noted above.

Is it a reputable shop doing the work or some friend in his garage?

I would also be concerned about color match to the adjacent panels. What color is the vehicle?

That is on the quote for the new bumper. The car is black so hopefully it will be easier to match. He is using all oem parts on the bumper by request so Hopefully he got the oem paint.

The shop has good reviews online but I picked it randomly. It's the first time I'm having any work done. They have been in business a long time but the shop is kinda dumpy looking. I guess that doesn't mean they do good work though. I feel good about it though. I could wait to see how the bumper comes out.

 

[WillSports3]

The difficult part and you won't know for a while is if they let the colour coat cure for long enough before they lay on the clear coat. A friend of mine had the clearcoat on his roof rushed a few years ago from ice storm repairs. Now, there's obvious signs of the roof needing to be completely resanded and repainted with clearcoat. But it never showed up until two or three years later.

 

[fightnews]

The difficult part and you won't know for a while is if they let the colour coat cure for long enough before they lay on the clear coat. A friend of mine had the clearcoat on his roof rushed a few years ago from ice storm repairs. Now, there's obvious signs of the roof needing to be completely resanded and repainted with clearcoat. But it never showed up until two or three years later.

That sucks, the guy says he needs the car for 5 days so I doubt he's rushing. Hopefully they have a curing lamp or whatever

 

[MattPersman]

Do you know what paint the oem robot used at the plant? I doubt the painter does either he is just going to use the paint brand he uses everyday on every car. Could be between two companies. But most shops use one like sherwin Williams or ppg etc


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[FUNX650]

I have a chance to get my hood
repainted in a couple weeks for 500.

$500 seems a bit low IMO...

That is on the quote for the new bumper.

!(*´∀｀*)尸


Bob

 

[fightnews]

!(*´∀｀*)尸


Bob

It's going in for a new bumper which will be painted. I can do the hood too if I want

 

[Eldorado2k]

That sucks, the guy says he needs the car for 5 days so I doubt he's rushing. Hopefully they have a curing lamp or whatever

5 days is nothing... Body shop once kept my car for 2 months to re paint and install the front bumper, hood, + 2 fenders from a donor car that I provided to them. Those dudes take a long time for everything.

 

[RaskyR1]

Do you know what paint the oem robot used at the plant? I doubt the painter does either he is just going to use the paint brand he uses everyday on every car. Could be between two companies. But most shops use one like sherwin Williams or ppg etc


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The paint used at the OEM is totally different then what body shops use.

 

[RaskyR1]

5 days is nothing... Body shop once kept my car for 2 months to re paint and install the front bumper, hood, + 2 fenders from a donor car that I provided to them. Those dudes take a long time for everything.

3-5 days is about right assuming the parts are at the shop. I had my bumper replaced, painted, and vehicle back the next day, but that was through my old mans shop.

2 months is ridiculous if they have all the parts so I would assume that wasn't an insurance job?

 

[Gillyz]

All the shop needs is the paint code that’s on the car. They’ll know where to look if they know what they are doing. It doesn’t have to be the same paint brand as long as they are using a quality brand. The reason they are only doing it for $500, is because it won’t be that much more work when they are doing the bumper. If you do the hood separate from the bumper, the price will go up I’m sure.

The price of the car isn’t going to drop if it’s a newer car unless it’s something exotic, but since the bumpers being replaced and resprayed, it’d devalue for that anyway.


Sent from my iPhone using AGOnline

 

[Eldorado2k]

3-5 days is about right assuming the parts are at the shop. I had my bumper replaced, painted, and vehicle back the next day, but that was through my old mans shop.

2 months is ridiculous if they have all the parts so I would assume that wasn't an insurance job?

Correct, it wasn’t an insurance job but instead out of pocket and it wasn’t cheap, even after I was able to knock $700 off their original estimate.. 2 months and it actually worked out great as I had another vehicle to drive + When they finally called me I actually ended up needing an extra 3 days to come up with all the cash.

In the end they did a fantastic job matching the Cadillac pearl white paint. I was impressed as was everyone I showed it to.

Here’s a picture of the donor car [top] and a couple of pictures of the recipient and the last Eldorado I owned.

 

[fightnews]

All the shop needs is the paint code that’s on the car. They’ll know where to look if they know what they are doing. It doesn’t have to be the same paint brand as long as they are using a quality brand. The reason they are only doing it for $500, is because it won’t be that much more work when they are doing the bumper. If you do the hood separate from the bumper, the price will go up I’m sure.

The price of the car isn’t going to drop if it’s a newer car unless it’s something exotic, but since the bumpers being replaced and resprayed, it’d devalue for that anyway.


Sent from my iPhone using AGOnline

I don't see why they are installing OEM parts it should be good as new. plus I'm paying myself so no accident report

 

[fightnews]

Correct, it wasn’t an insurance job but instead out of pocket and it wasn’t cheap, even after I was able to knock $700 off their original estimate.. 2 months and it actually worked out great as I had another vehicle to drive + When they finally called me I actually ended up needing an extra 3 days to come up with all the cash.

In the end they did a fantastic job matching the Cadillac pearl white paint. I was impressed as was everyone I showed it to.

Here’s a picture of the donor car [top] and a couple of pictures of the recipient and the last Eldorado I owned.

Nice! How was the new paint good as new? They aren't keeping my car that long ill raise holy hell on earth. I'm going to be paying for a rental.

 

[Eldorado2k]

Nice! How was the new paint good as new? They aren't keeping my car that long ill raise holy hell on earth. I'm going to be paying for a rental.

Well, I’ll be completely honest.. At 1st it was perfect [the only minor indication of it being re painted that I ever noticed was the thin strip on the very bottom of the body kit reflected light a bit differently than the original paint on that thin strip along the rest of the car vs. the repainted part on the front end] But that was such a minor thing and it was only visible at night with a bright light shining on it + the strip was only 2-3” in height. It was never enough to bother me as the rest of the paint on the fenders, hood, and bumper were a perfect match in every way as far as my eyes could see.

I had the car for about 4yrs. after the body shop painted those panels and it spent the final 9 months parked outside in my driveway due to needing major engine repairs. And while everything seemed fine prior to it being parked, those final 9 months saw the paint on the hood go from perfect to nearly completely cracked and peeled off all the way down to bare metal.

It started off like this, but eventually it got severe to the point where the paint curled up and was fubar x2.

[I got this example from the internet]

Every other panel on the car remained just fine, but the hood somehow took a nosedive. I never knew for sure if it was due to the time I did a noob 3 step correction by hand, or if it was the body shops fault. I figured it was more than likely the body shops fault, but in the end it didn’t matter, because I never got the car running again...There were so many things to fix under the hood and even though there was more than enough money in the bank, I couldn’t bring myself to pull the trigger and invest so much back into it, so I made the regrettable decision to part ways with it after it sat for 9 months.

The difficult part and you won't know for a while is if they let the colour coat cure for long enough before they lay on the clear coat. A friend of mine had the clearcoat on his roof rushed a few years ago from ice storm repairs. Now, there's obvious signs of the roof needing to be completely resanded and repainted with clearcoat. But it never showed up until two or three years later.

The explanation given hereby WillSports [along with the little research I just did] seems to finally make clear sense of what most likely caused my situation to happen. Make sure to keep your receipt and try to get verbal guarantee with a handshake. Because I clearly remember the warranty on my receipt stated the paintjob was guaranteed for any defects for just 1yr. maybe 2.. Handshake agreement is worth the second it takes, you might get lucky and find an honorable person.

And make sure to be clear about your expectations of the repaint to match the rest of the vehicles paint quality. Otherwise you may be left getting what you pay for as their excuse. Good luck!

 

[fightnews]

Well, I’ll be completely honest.. At 1st it was perfect [the only minor indication of it being re painted that I ever noticed was the thin strip on the very bottom of the body kit reflected light a bit differently than the original paint on that thin strip along the rest of the car vs. the repainted part on the front end] But that was such a minor thing and it was only visible at night with a bright light shining on it + the strip was only 2-3” in height. It was never enough to bother me as the rest of the paint on the fenders, hood, and bumper were a perfect match in every way as far as my eyes could see.

I had the car for about 4yrs. after the body shop painted those panels and it spent the final 9 months parked outside in my driveway due to needing major engine repairs. And while everything seemed fine prior to it being parked, those final 9 months saw the paint on the hood go from perfect to nearly completely cracked and peeled off all the way down to bare metal.

It started off like this, but eventually it got severe to the point where the paint curled up and was fubar x2.

[I got this example from the internet]

Every other panel on the car remained just fine, but the hood somehow took a nosedive. I never knew for sure if it was due to the time I did a noob 3 step correction by hand, or if it was the body shops fault. I figured it was more than likely the body shops fault, but in the end it didn’t matter, because I never got the car running again...There were so many things to fix under the hood and even though there was more than enough money in the bank, I couldn’t bring myself to pull the trigger and invest so much back into it, so I made the regrettable decision to part ways with it after it sat for 9 months.



The explanation given hereby WillSports [along with the little research I just did] seems to finally make clear sense of what most likely caused my situation to happen. Make sure to keep your receipt and try to get verbal guarantee with a handshake.�� Because I clearly remember the warranty on my receipt stated the paintjob was guaranteed for any defects for just 1yr. maybe 2.. Handshake agreement is worth the second it takes, you might get lucky and find an honorable person.

And make sure to be clear about your expectations of the repaint to match the rest of the vehicles paint quality. Otherwise you may be left getting what you pay for as their excuse. Good luck!

Thanks man that sounds legit A.F. I'm thinking I'm just going to have them fix the bumper. These last few days I'm starting to get the bug to trade up on the car. I do love it and I'm still paying for the guy to use the OEM parts but I'm seriously considering trading it now.

 

[WillSports3]

You gotta remember, most customers don't see the insides of a body shop. The shop my company uses for our fleet vehicles is a nightmare. I remember going into the back to remove some sensitive things we kept in the cars and I'm watching a guy sand a panel next to a guy spray painting a door and beside them, a guy eating a sandwhich. I walked out shaking my head and one of the guys said to me "ya I know I wouldn't bring my car here either."
Ask to see their operations if you go with the bodyshop. See if they're actually doing a decent job or not or of they're just painting and sanding panels in the open.