replacing the mini DA with a mini rotary in the arsenal....what are your guys' thoughts?

[JCDetails]

Currently, I see 3 polisher roles as it relates to my work. The big guys (Boss G15 or MT300), a Mini (gg3 in my case currently) and a micro (nano, which I don't have yet).


It's really the off season for me and as such I'm looking at where to invest my money to further my business when the good weather comes around. I'm completely satisfied with my Boss G15 and see no reason to bother with a 21mm machine. But an area I think I can take advantage of upgrading is in the mini role.

Currently I have a GG3 and while I can sometimes get decent correction out of it on high speeds, it feels like it lacks. I typically use it with thinpros (orange and white mainly) and it's been great for my production jobs w/ M37 360, but if I were to get into more serious correction work, I doubt it would really be enough and definitely would leave a noticeable gap between the results it provides and the results that the G15 can provide, even with the 2" conversion kit I purchased for it.

So I've been thinking of upgrading it. In the running for that upgrade are the Rupes LHR75e, the Flex XFE-7-12-80 and the Zentool 12e all of which are DA. However, I've also been toeing the line toward rotary lately, and options such as the PE8 have caught my eye. The ability to use 1", 2", and 3" pads as well as extensions for harder to reach spots is really nice.

It seems to me that although you'd need to be a lot more careful with RPMs with the movement being spread over such a small area, the pe8 as a rotary should have more correcting power. But for those who've used both, does it really?

I'm basically just trying to understand where I should spend my money before I plunk down $300+ on a Rupes or Flex mini and only end up disappointed (read: the results aren't significantly better than the GG3 for the money), when a mini rotary is less money and at least according to physics, should be able to correct better. If it helps any, I'd been leaning toward the Rupes 75 or Zentool 12e until I started considering the pe8.

 

[Ronin47]

On a rotary the smaller the pad the less the cut.

On a DA the smaller the pad the greater the cut.

Hence the mini rotaries need high speeds in order to cut. DA with small 3-4” pad and long 12mm throw cuts more.

 

[JCDetails]

On a rotary the smaller the pad the less the cut.

On a DA the smaller the pad the greater the cut.

Hence the mini rotaries need high speeds in order to cut. DA with small 3-4” pad and long 12mm throw cuts more.

Interesting, and points out a serious flaw in my logic.

With that in mind, the rupes/flex/zen at 12mm and 3” pad should outperform my gg3 significantly. How are they with pad stall though?


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[Ronin47]

All DA’s can and will stall-period. I have the Rupes/Flex/Shinemate mini DA’s along with Flex PE-14 with 3” bp and PE8, all the DA’s cut and finish better. I prefer the stalling when it does on certain tight spots as its much safer when clipping an edge.

 

[wing commander]

I think you might consider a PE-8 from flex with extensions

A PE-8 can be used for sanding on headlights, front bumpers on road rashed daily drivers, bottom section around the car, precise compounding and polishing guided by a steady hand. Thus, eliminating the need for tape in many cases.

I use my rotary to save my good DA pads from damage caused by the stuff on these areas that commonly have tar,cement,gum,sharp edges etc... Use a durable cutting pad on a slow speed with a gentle polish. Remember this is for daily drivers and rough jobs.

This is my favorite pad to use so far https://www.autogeek.net/3-inch-hd-blue-pad.html because it is wider than the 3" backing plate.

 

[DaveT435]

I had a PE8. It's a great machine but didn't get into tight spots very well, even with the extensions you usually ended up at San awkward angle. I had a Rupes mini and the Flex mini. I do,d the Rupes. Both are great machines, just figured it would be easier to sell the Rupes. Those machines are great, very useful. I also bought an ibird. That is a great little tool. It is definitely the tool for tight areas. With the 12mm throw even with the 1 1/4 inch pads it corrects pretty quickly. More power than I thought it would have also. It's a great little rotary too.

 

[wing commander]

I also have and love the Ibrid but I believe the OP is needing a AIO light correction production detailing set-up. I think the Ibrid is better to use on larger dollar jobs. My Ibrid stays home when I am doing cars that just need to shine again.

 

[barrybudden]

On a rotary the smaller the pad the less the cut.

On a DA the smaller the pad the greater the cut.

Hence the mini rotaries need high speeds in order to cut. DA with small 3-4” pad and long 12mm throw cuts more.

It's the size of the pad that dictates the cut if you like, on one rotation at the same speed a 3" pad will travel less distance than a 5" pad so therefore the 5" pad will polish a larger surface area.

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[JCDetails]

I had a PE8. It's a great machine but didn't get into tight spots very well, even with the extensions you usually ended up at San awkward angle. I had a Rupes mini and the Flex mini. I do,d the Rupes. Both are great machines, just figured it would be easier to sell the Rupes. Those machines are great, very useful. I also bought an ibird. That is a great little tool. It is definitely the tool for tight areas. With the 12mm throw even with the 1 1/4 inch pads it corrects pretty quickly. More power than I thought it would have also. It's a great little rotary too.

Notice any significant difference between the rupes and flex?

I also have and love the Ibrid but I believe the OP is needing a AIO light correction production detailing set-up. I think the Ibrid is better to use on larger dollar jobs. My Ibrid stays home when I am doing cars that just need to shine again.

For sure, the iBrid won't be coming out for most daily driver/AIO production jobs. But I think it's inevitable that I will need it particularly as I try to expand into more high-end and classic car work. My father's F-type R in the spring will be the first of that kind of higher end work that I'm doing.

It's the size of the pad that dictates the cut if you like, on one rotation at the same speed a 3" pad will travel less distance than a 5" pad so therefore the 5" pad will polish a larger surface area.

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For sure, from a surface area or 'quantity of paint touched per rotation/stroke' perspective, that totally makes sense. My assumption was more that a smaller pad at the same RPM on a rotary would be concentrating more 'work' in a smaller area, generating more heat and cutting more aggressively. Ronin says otherwise, though. I'm still kind of trying to wrap my head around it.

 

[barrybudden]

If you're using a larger pad one rotation will cover more distance than a smaller pad so the larger pad will generate more heat and polish more paint than the smaller pad. If you have a rotary after you have warmed up the pad try tilting it on its edge and do a few section passes then finsh of with it flat. The part of the pad that is in contact with the paint will generate more heat and cut more that if it was flat on the surface, as it travels through the air it cools down again. But make sure you have properly primed the pad!

 

[oneheadlite]

For sure, from a surface area or 'quantity of paint touched per rotation/stroke' perspective, that totally makes sense. My assumption was more that a smaller pad at the same RPM on a rotary would be concentrating more 'work' in a smaller area, generating more heat and cutting more aggressively. Ronin says otherwise, though. I'm still kind of trying to wrap my head around it.

It's been my understanding that the larger the diameter pad on a rotary, the larger circumference means more pad in contact with the paint per revolution. That means more speed at the outer edge also.

3" pad circumference: 9.42"
6" pad circumference: 18.84"