Restoring Mini Cooper R90 wheels

[bcgreen]

I am going to polish out the oxidation that has invaded my aluminum wheels. The lips are what visibly are showing the oxidization and so I have decided to take apart the wheels and strip out the clear coat before I sand and polish the alum.
At first I thought the oxidization was only along the lips, but now that I have taken the wheels off of the car and looked in behind the wheel, I can see oxidization in the barrels as well.
What I would like to know is, how important is it to get rid of the oxidation from the barrels.

 

[Just02896]

If your going to be stripping the clearcoat, why not do the barrels as well? Are you planning on re-clearing the wheels after polishing to protect your hard work?

 

[jamesboyy]

If it was me I would remove the oxidation off the face, and barrel cause to me it's a complete job, and if you dont do the barrels it will stick out like a sore thumb(cause of our OCD) but you have to ask yourself how much work(love) are you willing to put back into these wheels

 

[ShaunD]

Have you taken the center/spokes off yet? You can get some aircraft stripper(think that's the name) that is safe on aluminum and strip the clear off instead of sanding the lip.

 

[bcgreen]

If your going to be stripping the clearcoat, why not do the barrels as well? Are you planning on re-clearing the wheels after polishing to protect your hard work?

I am just going to use alum. polish every week or whenever it looks like it needs it.

 

[bcgreen]

If it was me I would remove the oxidation off the face, and barrel cause to me it's a complete job, and if you dont do the barrels it will stick out like a sore thumb(cause of our OCD) but you have to ask yourself how much work(love) are you willing to put back into these wheels

I am a fellow OCD, my vehicles always look like I am ready for a showing.
When I am done only prof. will know the lips are not chromed.

 

[bcgreen]

Have you taken the center/spokes off yet? You can get some aircraft stripper(think that's the name) that is safe on aluminum and strip the clear off instead of sanding the lip.

Centers are not off yet - taking my time gathering supplies. I have a can of Jasco spray.
After the clear coat is stripped, then comes the sanding, with 400 and 800, then the fun part of buffing with a couple of buffing wheels and compounds. It will be a jewel when I am done.

 

[Just02896]

I am just going to use alum. polish every week or whenever it looks like it needs it.

I did this once years ago and ended up doing a final polish and having the wheels cleared due to being sick of polishing them every week! It was just too time consuming. Took almost 2 hours to polish them to my liking every time. Bare aluminum soaks dirt in like a sponge.

 

[bcgreen]

I did this once years ago and ended up doing a final polish and having the wheels cleared due to being sick of polishing them every week! It was just too time consuming. Took almost 2 hours to polish them to my liking every time. Bare aluminum soaks dirt in like a sponge.

Having them cleared just invites something getting under the clear and causing oxidation again. Also, CC, will yellow after a period of time. I don't mind polishing wheels often as it is, I am dusting and washing every 3 days when the cars sits outside. When inside I am dusting every couple of days. Just too much time on my hands.

 

[Just02896]

Having them cleared just invites something getting under the clear and causing oxidation again. Also, CC, will yellow after a period of time. I don't mind polishing wheels often as it is, I am dusting and washing every 3 days when the cars sits outside. When inside I am dusting every couple of days. Just too much time on my hands.

Lol! I hear ya! Winter is giving me cabin fever so the house is REALLY clean lately!

 

[FUNX650]

Having them cleared just invites something getting under the clear and causing oxidation again. Also, CC, will yellow after a period of time.

-Never heard of oxidation occurring in this fashion.
-What kind of wheel-specific CC are you referring to that yellows after a "period of time"?
-Oh yes...How long is this period of time?

Bob

 

[swanicyouth]

I'd just pay to have them powder coated brilliant silver correctly. That's what I did at least. I can't see polishing wheels by hand on a regular basis, nor can I see any home applied clear coat holding up for very long.

 

[Vegas Transplant]

..then comes the sanding, with 400 and 800...

Any reason you chose these particular grits?
Kinda a big jump without inbetween step/grit.

 

[bcgreen]

-Never heard of oxidation occurring in this fashion.
-What kind of wheel-specific CC are you referring to that yellows after a "period of time"?
-Oh yes...How long is this period of time?

Bob

There are plenty of examples of this type of oxidation. Mine is minor compared to others. Just go to a Bimmer site where BBS wheels are popular.
CC rims or aluminum will yellow after a time. Time period exactly I can't tell you, but I don't want to have to take the wheels apart again.

 

[bcgreen]

I'd just pay to have them powder coated brilliant silver correctly. That's what I did at least. I can't see polishing wheels by hand on a regular basis, nor can I see any home applied clear coat holding up for very long.


I had asked that question on another site and they cautioned that fitment can be a problem. I really don't mind polishing the lips on my car as its just a small strip of alum. that need polishing anyways. My Audi wheels take longer than doing the R90s.

 

[bcgreen]

Any reason you chose these particular grits?
Kinda a big jump without inbetween step/grit.

I could get a 600, but the polishing compounds will take care of any surface scratches from the 400 anyway. No need to make it a bigger job than necessary. I could get carried away like some people and go from 320 up to 3000, but I will get great results with less time and effort.

 

[ShaunD]

Have you sanded aluminum before starting with 400? That seems more aggressive than may be necessary. A test spot is definitely in order before sanding a whole lip.

 

[Vegas Transplant]

I could get a 600, but the polishing compounds will take care of any surface scratches from the 400 anyway. No need to make it a bigger job than necessary. I could get carried away like some people and go from 320 up to 3000, but I will get great results with less time and effort.

I'm always perplexed with those that sand out to a high degree then hit with a rough compound and stiff wheel.

Once the compromised clear has been removed it's highly probable that compound alone can do the job...dunno as you didn't state scratch issues.

I stripped and polished sets of wheels similar to damage pictured. Most times the damage is the clear and barely into the aluminum, if at all.

Your forum handle rings a bell...howdy!

 

[bcgreen]

Have you sanded aluminum before starting with 400? That seems more aggressive than may be necessary. A test spot is definitely in order before sanding a whole lip.

That's why I suggest starting with 600.

 

[bcgreen]

I'm always perplexed with those that sand out to a high degree then hit with a rough compound and stiff wheel.

Once the compromised clear has been removed it's highly probable that compound alone can do the job...dunno as you didn't state scratch issues.

I stripped and polished sets of wheels similar to damage pictured. Most times the damage is the clear and barely into the aluminum, if at all.

Your forum handle rings a bell...howdy!

I am on other forums as well with that handle, maybe we've talked, do you use any other handle?
I noticed I have some oxidation in the barrel as well. I am assuming the whole wheel is alum. but I am not sure once I get rid of the oxidation in the barrel, do I need to anything with these areas afterwords? I don't mind keeping the lips polished every month or so, but I can't see having to take the wheel off to do the barrels.