Restoring/Preserving old Single Stage Paint - Carnauba? Sealant? Or both?

jawsplace

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I've extensively read Mike's process for restoring and preserving old single stage paints (he has a lengthy article restoring a 70's lincoln). I have a 40 year old Scout II with all its original paint intact that's in excellent condition for its age.

I've followed Mike's steps for cleaning, clay bar, and polishing with Meguiars 7 Glaze. I invested in Dodo Juice and am ready to apply the wax. But I've been reading various opinions about first applying a quality sealant followed by the carnauba. Some claim the combination gives a deeper color and gloss and provides the sealant's durable protection under the carnauba.

I like the idea of giving the paint rich, deep color and gloss (the color is yellow). It's also desirable to have added protection of a durable sealant between periods of reapplying carnauba.

My questions:

Any advice on using sealant + carnauba on 40 year old paint? Mike's prescribed process didn't include any sealant, just quality carnauba after the glaze. Will sealant topped by carnauba be safe and effective for single stage paint?

Anyone with experience and results applying wax-on-sealant this way? Is it worth the effort?
 
I work on a lot of SS paints and I am more of a nuba guy. So basically I just go with a nuba of my liking. If you choose to use a sealant then a nuba that is fine and A-OK for SS paints! Just wait 12 hours after applying the sealant to top with a nuba so the sealant has proper time to bond.
 
I've done the entire process a few times and have become quite a disciple of Mike's preachings. I don't think there's actually a single correct answer to your question. Mike likely used Dodo Juice Banana Armour in the article because of its compatibility with the gold paint on the Lincoln, but specifically states "For this step you could substitute any quality finishing wax or paint sealant".

Personally, I prefer a durable sealant or hybrid for the first step. With all the labor I've expended, I want to lock in the gloss I've achieved as long as possible, since I know my tired old paint will continue to deteriorate every day. The OEM burgundy lacquer on my Camino is very susceptible to streaking, so my first pass is usually with Meguiar's NXT paste on the ultra-sensitive horizontal panels since it's the most user-friendly, and 845 on the less-sensitive verticals. After that step, I've tested Griot's Best-of-Show, Optimum, Dodo Juice Doublecoat hard and three Meg's products: Gold Class, M26 Hi-Tech Sealant and M16 paste. Nothing really stood above the rest to my tired old eyes, as all of them gave a nice 'nuba glow, so subsequent boosters are chosen at random.
Just my thoughts.
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Bill
 
Thanks for the great feedback. Now I've got another related question..

I've already clayed and polished my Scout with M7 glaze - great results! I've applied carnauba wax only to the hood. Again, looks great. But now I'd like to go the sealant-before-wax route.

What am I faced with to rid my hood of the carnauba in order to apply a sealant?
 
I guess my question is, do I need to completely strip off the carnauba and if so how? Could I remove it using the M7 glaze?
 
Not sure about M7, but many use Dawn dishwashing liquid to strip wax/sealants from cars.
 
What am I faced with to rid my hood of the Carnauba in order to apply a sealant?

If it were me and the vehicle and specifically the paint on the vehicle were important to me, (as in preserving it instead of repainting it), I would simply use a light paint cleaner to remove the wax or a fine polish. You can apply both by hand or machine.

This would be the safe way to remove the wax without harming the porous single stage paint. It's a way of working forward in the process, not backwards.

That is everything you do takes you closer to the goal, not away from the goal.



I guess my question is, do I need to completely strip off the Carnauba and if so how? Could I remove it using the M07 glaze?

I believe you can remove the wax using the #7 not because #7 is abrasive or a chemical cleaner but just the act of rubbing a smooth, creamy lotion with some type of application material can have a "polishing effect", which is a kinder, gentler way of saying an abrading effect.

Abrading can be aggressive, or very gentle, so don't be alarmed by the use of the word abrading, it just depends upon,

The product
The application material
The manner in which the product is applied (machine or hand and if by hand gently or with great force, you control all of this)
I have an article on this here,

Factors that affect how aggressive or non-aggressive a product is


If working by hand you might like these from my article list....


Polishing Paint by Hand

Foam Applicator Pads at Autogeek.net

Priming your pad when working by hand

How to use a hand applied abrasive polish or paint cleaner by hand




Not sure about M07, but many use Dawn dishwashing liquid to strip wax/sealants from cars.

Dawn or any detergent dish washing soap will remove most of any water based compound or polish. It might remove some waxes and paint sealants, depends upon the product as a lot of waxes and paint sealants have been introduced that are detergent resistant.

In the case of a new car with a clear coat finish this would be the fast way to go...

If a person is working on something that is important to them and the paint is single stage, especially original, antique or even just old single stage paint, then keep in mind single stage paints tend to be very permeable, that is porous and you can put polishing oils into them and your can leach or strip polishing oils out of them, it just depends upon the product you choose to use.

If it were me and the paint was important to me I would use a light paint cleaner or fine polish to remove anything off the surface. The effect is beneficial and working forward in the process.

Washing with a detergent wash on an old single stage paint might clean it really well but it also acts to dry out the paint as well as dull the surface.


:)
 
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