Mike@DedicatedPerfection
New member
- Feb 26, 2011
- 12,365
- 0
Remove paint drips and runs quickly and conveniently.
Meguiars Unigrit Sanding Blocks
From the Autogeek webpage,
Last week a co-worker asked me if I could cut the runs out of his freshly painted door in which he had a few small runs at the bottom.
So today after looking over the door that was painted and seeing the minor paint runs I decided to take a different approach than the normal sand paper that is usually used to level the runs. Another option is to razor blades the runs out but I dont feel comfortable doing that nor do I care to learn that method after using Meguiar's sanding block.
Meguiar's sanding block is just that. A rectangular gray block that has sanding material on every single edge and is perfect for cutting the high spots of the run, drip, sag etc. This block allows you to flatten the high spots of the run without touching any of the lower areas. This will allow for uniform material removal in that the runs are cut flat to the surface before engaging the painted surface. This ensures the best possible defect removal.
Pros,
- Incredible control on what you are doing compared to using sand paper and a sanding block.
- Excellent leveling characteristics without touching other areas until needed.
- Did I mention easy to use?
Cons,
- Price. $19.99 for each little block
Here is the block in the packaging.
In the bottom right corner you can see the different grits availible. I am reviewing the K-1000 or 1000 grit media.
Here is the block itself. It is very hard and sturdy.
The block needs to soak in soapy water for 15 minutes minimum. I had it soaking for 20-25 minutes before use.
Here are the runs that need to be leveled with the surface.
Now you can see how the block allows you to start working on the high spots to flatten them before the surface below is touched.
When the runs start to level you have to keep going until you cant tell a difference between the runs and the surrounding material. Here you can see that the runs are no where to be found. It is important that the surface is completely leveled like so.
Now that the surface is scarred from 1000 grit and you cant find where the runs where it is time to start refining the surface. I picked up with 2000 grit sandpaper to refine the 1000 grit marks.
Instead of just stopping on 2000 grit and picking up my rotary, wool, and M105 and going at it like a mad man, I chose to refine the 2000 marks even further. This is after 3000 grit sanding.
Now a little bit of work with M105, a yellow W8207, and my trusty ol 849 is put to work. I set the 849 as low as it would go (1000 rpm) and proceeded to make my section passes.
I refined the surface further with M205 and a black W9207 finishing pad again set to 1000 rpm.
Now for my pictures of the completed job....
For anyone that is doing defect removal whether it may be runs, sags, nibs, etc stop using a sheet of sand paper wrapped in a sanding block. This is the way to remove defects without a doubt.
:xyxthumbs:
Meguiars Unigrit Sanding Blocks
From the Autogeek webpage,
Last week a co-worker asked me if I could cut the runs out of his freshly painted door in which he had a few small runs at the bottom.
So today after looking over the door that was painted and seeing the minor paint runs I decided to take a different approach than the normal sand paper that is usually used to level the runs. Another option is to razor blades the runs out but I dont feel comfortable doing that nor do I care to learn that method after using Meguiar's sanding block.
Meguiar's sanding block is just that. A rectangular gray block that has sanding material on every single edge and is perfect for cutting the high spots of the run, drip, sag etc. This block allows you to flatten the high spots of the run without touching any of the lower areas. This will allow for uniform material removal in that the runs are cut flat to the surface before engaging the painted surface. This ensures the best possible defect removal.
Pros,
- Incredible control on what you are doing compared to using sand paper and a sanding block.
- Excellent leveling characteristics without touching other areas until needed.
- Did I mention easy to use?
Cons,
- Price. $19.99 for each little block
Here is the block in the packaging.
In the bottom right corner you can see the different grits availible. I am reviewing the K-1000 or 1000 grit media.
Here is the block itself. It is very hard and sturdy.
The block needs to soak in soapy water for 15 minutes minimum. I had it soaking for 20-25 minutes before use.
Here are the runs that need to be leveled with the surface.
Now you can see how the block allows you to start working on the high spots to flatten them before the surface below is touched.
When the runs start to level you have to keep going until you cant tell a difference between the runs and the surrounding material. Here you can see that the runs are no where to be found. It is important that the surface is completely leveled like so.
Now that the surface is scarred from 1000 grit and you cant find where the runs where it is time to start refining the surface. I picked up with 2000 grit sandpaper to refine the 1000 grit marks.
Instead of just stopping on 2000 grit and picking up my rotary, wool, and M105 and going at it like a mad man, I chose to refine the 2000 marks even further. This is after 3000 grit sanding.
Now a little bit of work with M105, a yellow W8207, and my trusty ol 849 is put to work. I set the 849 as low as it would go (1000 rpm) and proceeded to make my section passes.
I refined the surface further with M205 and a black W9207 finishing pad again set to 1000 rpm.
Now for my pictures of the completed job....
For anyone that is doing defect removal whether it may be runs, sags, nibs, etc stop using a sheet of sand paper wrapped in a sanding block. This is the way to remove defects without a doubt.
:xyxthumbs:
