Mike Phillips
Active member
- Dec 5, 2022
- 51,004
- 6
Review: RUPES BigFoot LHR 19E Rotary Polisher by Mike Phillips at Autogeek
LHR 19E Rotary Polisher
First impressions fresh out of the box...
Lightweight
The new RUPES LHR 19E Rotary Polisher is lightweight and compact in size. It weighs in at just under 5 pounds. Traditional full size rotary buffers range from 7 pounds to 9 pounds. While 2 pounds may not seem like a lot of weight it is noticeable when buffing out entire cars panel by panel. Also it's one thing to buff out a horizontal panel where the weight of the tool is supported by the panel you're buffing, in this situation all you have to do is apply any additional downward pressure depending upon what you're trying to do. However - when buffing out vertical panels, you have to support the weight of the tool PLUS press the tool against the panel, this is when the weight of the tool will really start to matter.
Compact size
The compact size means no bulky head surrounding the back of the spindle, backing plate and pad which enables you to more easily see the panel you're buffing. For anyone that's used a rotary buffer to buff out anything important and/or intricate is shape or design - you know this feature is invaluable.
Progressive trigger switch
I love this feature and you're going to love it too. What the progressive trigger switch means is that you have full control over the speed of the pad. You control the RPM from just-off the off position to full RPM up to the max RPM you've selected with the speed control dial. This is easier to show in person than it is to explain with a keyboard but simply put - pull-in the trigger just a little and you get very slow pad rotation. Pull it more and get more pad rotation speed. Pull it all the way against the body of the tool and you get the max speed selected via the speed setting dial. For comfort over extended time you can then set the speed lock button and take your fingers off the progressive trigger switch.
Super low minimum RPM range
The lowest RPM speed with the trigger lock in the locked position or with the progressive trigger pulled to max speed the RUPES LHR 19E will run at 450 RPM. That's 150 RPM lower than the lowest RPM available on comparable automotive rotary polishers on the market which is 600 RPM.
Question: What's so great about low RPM?
Answer: Easier control, safer buffing and easier learning curve for people new to the rotary polisher.
The ability to run the RUPES LHR 19E at 450 RPM in the locked position at the lowest speed setting makes using a rotary buffer incredibly easy. This means it's easy for anyone who's never used a rotary buffer to learn how to use this type of tool. The included backing plate from the factory is 5" in diameter, the RUPES recommended buffing pad is 6" in diameter - this is half the size of early buffing pads which ranged all the way up to 12" in diameter! If you've never used a traditional full size rotary polisher with a traditional and historic full size wool buffing pad, then count yourself luck as this combination was punishing to say the least.
Huge pads on heavy tools where the lowest RPM range is 1500 RPM and higher was the norm in the old days. Lots of people still have old school rotary buffers in their garage, the lowest RPM for some of these tools is 1500 RPM and that's the new fast. There are some old school rotary buffers that are called 2-speed sander/polishers. Instead of a variable speed dial they have a 2-position rocker switch that toggles between 2200 RPM and 3000 RPM!
Trying to learn how to control a rotary buffer that's heavy and bulky, with a huge buffing pad and where the lowest RPM speed setting is higher than the highest speed setting on the RUPES LHR 19E is not only extremely difficult it is physically draining. And chances are any old school, full size rotary buffer is also going to be very noisy and that simply takes all the fun out of detailing cars plus poses a health issue to your long term and even short term hearing ability.
Max RPM of 1700
Like mentioned above, most old school rotary buffers will buzz all the way up to 3000 RPM! At that speed - you're no longer buffing you're grinding. You are also putting the paint at risk for burning due to how fast you can heat up the paint. If you heat up the paint and twist it or physically burn or abrade through it - it's game over. The only way to repair damage like this is to repaint the area (called a blend), or repaint the entire panel, the preferred method repair but also more costly)
Here's the deal - you don't need high speed to do amazing correction and polishing work. In fact - heating the paint up is called destructive polishing, it's bad for the integrity of the paint plus it increases the potential you'll burn through or twist the paint. I personally rarely use rotary polishers over 900 RPM unless I'm removing sanding marks or serious oxidation out of severely neglected a gel-coat boat. But that's because gel-coat is a completely different type of material than automotive paints and it's also a LOT thicker so there's a lot less risk of causing damage.
450 RPM all the way
When buffed out the paint on the 1970 Chevelle in the pictures below, I did all the compounding work on the lowest speed setting. This means if I had the speed trigger in the locked position I was never buffing past 450 RPM and for some areas I was feathering the trigger which means I was buffing at below 450 RPM.
Myths and misssinformation
While on the topic of using rotary buffers at high speed, let me put to rest some common misinformation that has been shared and passed around ever since I can remember. There are 2 myths or misinformation that I hope to finally put the death nail into.
Myth #1 - You need heat to break the abrasives down
This is so wrong. It's one of those examples of once the Genie is out of the bottle it's impossible to put it back in.
As already mentioned above, heating up car paint and specifically modern clearcoats paint systems, is bad for the integrity of the paint, it's called destructive polishing. Besides the risk of twisting the paint or burning through the paint you also risk making the paint cloudy or brittle. When heated up, you also make it easier for the abrasive in any compound, polish or cleaner/wax you're buffing with to cut deeper into the paint and this not only remove paint needlessly it also leaves behind microscopic cracks or fissure called interstices. When you make the paint more open you create an increase in the possibility for oxidation and corrosion.
Here's the real deal or the accurate explanation of what's taking place...
First - some compounds, polishes and cleaner/waxes do in fact use diminishing abrasives and correctly used, you buff these until the abrasives have broken down and the reason for this is so that you leave behind a low-swirl or low scratch results in the paint after the buffing cycle. If you don't buff long enough the abrasives will not have broken down to a smaller size and thus the abrasive particles in their still large state are still cutting deeper into the paint.
Second - Where guys get it wrong is they think that it's the heat that is breaking down the abrasives and this means they need to buff until the paint gets hot to correctly buff the product. Fact is, diminishing abrasive break down with pressure over time. The unwanted by-product of pressure over time is heat. You don't need heat and you don't want heat, it's an un-wanted by-product from the process. In a perfect world when buffing paint you would keep temperatures low or normal, which in a perfect world is a range between 60 degrees to 80 degrees Fahrenheit.
Myth #1 - You can re-flow paint by heating it up
It's easy for someone to say this and appear to be the God of Rotary Buffer however - as it relates to modern cars, modern cars are painted using basecoat/clearcoat paint systems and the clear layer of paint is chemically cured or catalyzed not air cured via time and solvent evaporation like old school lacquer paint system. If you heat up a modern clearcoat paint system you can melt it but that's different than reflowing it. And as discussed above, it's harmful to modern clearcoat paints to heat them up past temperatures of 180 degrees.
The BIG PICTURE is this - with quality abrasive technology and the right pad you can do paint correction using low speed or low RPM rotary polishers like the RUPES LHR 19E and dramatically reduce the risk of damaging the paint due to heat. Plus - it's easier to control a rotary polisher at low speeds with small pads.
Well engineered
Another aspect about the RUPES LHR 10E Rotary Polisher is that RUPES designs, engineers and then manufactures their own tools including the motors. By manufacturing their own tools they are able to maintain quality control over their tools from start to finish or in other words from the point where the tool is just an idea in someone's imagination to boxed and shipped.
The above info is my take on this new tool based upon my background in this industry and my knowledge of and experience with using rotary buffers for over 30 yeas. Now let's see what RUPES has to say about their tools...
The technical stuff...
RUPES BigFoot LHR 19E Rotary Polisher features:
• High torque motor – will remove swirls and scratches from paint quicker with a more efficient motor.
• Dual transmission – will allow you to press the machine without slowing for additional corrective power.
• Electronic speed control – clearly marks which speed is being used and is located on top of the machine.
• Progressive trigger switch – allows you to fully control your speed with a slow start.
• Lightweight and ergonomic design – far less bulk than other rotary machines, the RUPES BigFoot LHR 19E Rotary Polisher’s design allows for increased maneuverability and control.
• Rubber tool rests – allows you to place the tool face up without damage to tool.
• 125 mm (5 inches) backing plate– smaller pads allow for higher precision during use without fear of overheating.
• Backing plate - 125 mm (5 inches)
• Power – 1200 Watts
• RPM – 450 – 1700
• Weight – 4.85 lbs
• Cord Length – 29 ft.
Pictures
Here's the RUPES LHR 19E Rotary Polisher
The RPM range matched to speed setting on the speed setting dial graph is conveniently located at the top of the tool just ahead of the speed dial.
The progressive trigger switch is located underneath the handle and has a serrated rubber face for slip-free control.
The speed lock button is located just above the progressive trigger switch to make locking-in the tool speed fast and easy.
The drive gear lock button is located at the top of the head of the polisher. This is used to lock-up the gears in order to break the backing plate free when changing backing plates. The button is recessed to help prevent accidental depression during tool operation.
Handle options
The RUPES LHR 19E comes with two handle options, the traditional stick handle, (not shown), and the more modern D-handle. You can also use the tools without any handle if that's your preference. The paddle shaped head is covered in soft rubber to make gripping it easy for maximum control while reducing grip-fatigue.
Both sides of the head unit offer threaded holes for the stick handle or the bolts that attach the d-handle.
My review
I only had access to this new rotary polisher for one day before having to box it up and ship it out to a RUPES employee. When I do reviews for products I like to use cool projects that match whatever the tool, pad or product is intended to be used for. In this case, I had a 1970 Chevelle with a modern basecoat/clearcoat paint job that was filled with swirls and scratches. This gave me a real-world opportunity to put this tool to the test. Buffing out a small section is okay but you don't really get to know a tool unless you spend hours behind it. For this project, it took me approximately 5 hours to methodically buffer out each panel using the RUPES LHR 19E Rotary Polisher and the matching RUPES coarse rotary polisher compound.
Disclaimer: A RUPES factory wool buffing pad was not available at the time so I substituted a Lake Country 6" Lambswool Cutting Pad
For this car I chose to do a three step process including,
I really enjoyed using the new RUPES rotary polisher. It's lightweight, compact in size and quieter than most conventional rotary buffers. The tools was easy to hold and control, (that's two things and very different from one another), and this made buffing out thin panels, intricate areas and around emblems and objects both safe and easy. The RUPES compound easily removed the deepest swirls and scratches. It has a long buffing cycle with no visible dusting and easy wipe-off. The swirls left in the finish were shallow and easily removed by the next step - using the RUPES Mille gear-driven 5mm orbital polisher.
Small pads = the way to go
In the old days, the only options were huge pads and huge rotary buffers. The trend now day is for smaller tools, lower RPMs and smaller pads. It's real simple, smaller pads are easier to control and that makes you more efficient when doing correction and polishing work. If you've never used a rotary polisher before but are interested in making the move - then I'd recommend taking a look at the RUPES LHR 19E. It's designed to use smaller pads and this will make it faster and easier for you to learn how to use and master.
System approach
I'm a "System Guy". By this I mean, if a company has invested the time, money and research into developing a component system, chances are it works. RUPES has formulated compounds and polishes that are unique to the direct rotating action of the rotary polisher. I know some of you reading this are poo-pooing the idea that a compound and/or polish can be "tuned" to the action of a tool but I'm here to tell you it's not only true it's a fact. I've used plenty of compounds that worked great with orbital polishers but worked horrible with rotary buffers. In most cases the problems would be short working time, difficult wipe-off, excessive dusting, etc. So have an open mind and entertain the idea that RUPES has in fact developed both products and pads that work together in harmony to make the buffing experience enjoyable while accomplishing the task at had efficiently.
At the time of this review, the new RUPES LHR 19E Rotary Polishers are not yet available in the United States. RUPES projects and anticipates these new tools, matching pads and products will be available and shipping in January of 2018, (just a few weeks from now). Like all new tool introductions from RUPES the norm is for the tools to sell-out quickly. So if you think you want one... order one now and beat the crowd. Otherwise you'll get to do what most of us hate doing and that's... wait.
One Autogeek.com
RUPES BigFoot LHR 19E Rotary Polisher - Pre-Order Now!
LHR 19E Rotary Polisher
First impressions fresh out of the box...
Lightweight
The new RUPES LHR 19E Rotary Polisher is lightweight and compact in size. It weighs in at just under 5 pounds. Traditional full size rotary buffers range from 7 pounds to 9 pounds. While 2 pounds may not seem like a lot of weight it is noticeable when buffing out entire cars panel by panel. Also it's one thing to buff out a horizontal panel where the weight of the tool is supported by the panel you're buffing, in this situation all you have to do is apply any additional downward pressure depending upon what you're trying to do. However - when buffing out vertical panels, you have to support the weight of the tool PLUS press the tool against the panel, this is when the weight of the tool will really start to matter.
Compact size
The compact size means no bulky head surrounding the back of the spindle, backing plate and pad which enables you to more easily see the panel you're buffing. For anyone that's used a rotary buffer to buff out anything important and/or intricate is shape or design - you know this feature is invaluable.
Progressive trigger switch
I love this feature and you're going to love it too. What the progressive trigger switch means is that you have full control over the speed of the pad. You control the RPM from just-off the off position to full RPM up to the max RPM you've selected with the speed control dial. This is easier to show in person than it is to explain with a keyboard but simply put - pull-in the trigger just a little and you get very slow pad rotation. Pull it more and get more pad rotation speed. Pull it all the way against the body of the tool and you get the max speed selected via the speed setting dial. For comfort over extended time you can then set the speed lock button and take your fingers off the progressive trigger switch.
Super low minimum RPM range
The lowest RPM speed with the trigger lock in the locked position or with the progressive trigger pulled to max speed the RUPES LHR 19E will run at 450 RPM. That's 150 RPM lower than the lowest RPM available on comparable automotive rotary polishers on the market which is 600 RPM.
Question: What's so great about low RPM?
Answer: Easier control, safer buffing and easier learning curve for people new to the rotary polisher.
The ability to run the RUPES LHR 19E at 450 RPM in the locked position at the lowest speed setting makes using a rotary buffer incredibly easy. This means it's easy for anyone who's never used a rotary buffer to learn how to use this type of tool. The included backing plate from the factory is 5" in diameter, the RUPES recommended buffing pad is 6" in diameter - this is half the size of early buffing pads which ranged all the way up to 12" in diameter! If you've never used a traditional full size rotary polisher with a traditional and historic full size wool buffing pad, then count yourself luck as this combination was punishing to say the least.
Huge pads on heavy tools where the lowest RPM range is 1500 RPM and higher was the norm in the old days. Lots of people still have old school rotary buffers in their garage, the lowest RPM for some of these tools is 1500 RPM and that's the new fast. There are some old school rotary buffers that are called 2-speed sander/polishers. Instead of a variable speed dial they have a 2-position rocker switch that toggles between 2200 RPM and 3000 RPM!
Trying to learn how to control a rotary buffer that's heavy and bulky, with a huge buffing pad and where the lowest RPM speed setting is higher than the highest speed setting on the RUPES LHR 19E is not only extremely difficult it is physically draining. And chances are any old school, full size rotary buffer is also going to be very noisy and that simply takes all the fun out of detailing cars plus poses a health issue to your long term and even short term hearing ability.
Max RPM of 1700
Like mentioned above, most old school rotary buffers will buzz all the way up to 3000 RPM! At that speed - you're no longer buffing you're grinding. You are also putting the paint at risk for burning due to how fast you can heat up the paint. If you heat up the paint and twist it or physically burn or abrade through it - it's game over. The only way to repair damage like this is to repaint the area (called a blend), or repaint the entire panel, the preferred method repair but also more costly)
Here's the deal - you don't need high speed to do amazing correction and polishing work. In fact - heating the paint up is called destructive polishing, it's bad for the integrity of the paint plus it increases the potential you'll burn through or twist the paint. I personally rarely use rotary polishers over 900 RPM unless I'm removing sanding marks or serious oxidation out of severely neglected a gel-coat boat. But that's because gel-coat is a completely different type of material than automotive paints and it's also a LOT thicker so there's a lot less risk of causing damage.
450 RPM all the way
When buffed out the paint on the 1970 Chevelle in the pictures below, I did all the compounding work on the lowest speed setting. This means if I had the speed trigger in the locked position I was never buffing past 450 RPM and for some areas I was feathering the trigger which means I was buffing at below 450 RPM.
Myths and misssinformation
While on the topic of using rotary buffers at high speed, let me put to rest some common misinformation that has been shared and passed around ever since I can remember. There are 2 myths or misinformation that I hope to finally put the death nail into.
Myth #1 - You need heat to break the abrasives down
This is so wrong. It's one of those examples of once the Genie is out of the bottle it's impossible to put it back in.
As already mentioned above, heating up car paint and specifically modern clearcoats paint systems, is bad for the integrity of the paint, it's called destructive polishing. Besides the risk of twisting the paint or burning through the paint you also risk making the paint cloudy or brittle. When heated up, you also make it easier for the abrasive in any compound, polish or cleaner/wax you're buffing with to cut deeper into the paint and this not only remove paint needlessly it also leaves behind microscopic cracks or fissure called interstices. When you make the paint more open you create an increase in the possibility for oxidation and corrosion.
Here's the real deal or the accurate explanation of what's taking place...
First - some compounds, polishes and cleaner/waxes do in fact use diminishing abrasives and correctly used, you buff these until the abrasives have broken down and the reason for this is so that you leave behind a low-swirl or low scratch results in the paint after the buffing cycle. If you don't buff long enough the abrasives will not have broken down to a smaller size and thus the abrasive particles in their still large state are still cutting deeper into the paint.
Second - Where guys get it wrong is they think that it's the heat that is breaking down the abrasives and this means they need to buff until the paint gets hot to correctly buff the product. Fact is, diminishing abrasive break down with pressure over time. The unwanted by-product of pressure over time is heat. You don't need heat and you don't want heat, it's an un-wanted by-product from the process. In a perfect world when buffing paint you would keep temperatures low or normal, which in a perfect world is a range between 60 degrees to 80 degrees Fahrenheit.
Myth #1 - You can re-flow paint by heating it up
It's easy for someone to say this and appear to be the God of Rotary Buffer however - as it relates to modern cars, modern cars are painted using basecoat/clearcoat paint systems and the clear layer of paint is chemically cured or catalyzed not air cured via time and solvent evaporation like old school lacquer paint system. If you heat up a modern clearcoat paint system you can melt it but that's different than reflowing it. And as discussed above, it's harmful to modern clearcoat paints to heat them up past temperatures of 180 degrees.
The BIG PICTURE is this - with quality abrasive technology and the right pad you can do paint correction using low speed or low RPM rotary polishers like the RUPES LHR 19E and dramatically reduce the risk of damaging the paint due to heat. Plus - it's easier to control a rotary polisher at low speeds with small pads.
Well engineered
Another aspect about the RUPES LHR 10E Rotary Polisher is that RUPES designs, engineers and then manufactures their own tools including the motors. By manufacturing their own tools they are able to maintain quality control over their tools from start to finish or in other words from the point where the tool is just an idea in someone's imagination to boxed and shipped.
The above info is my take on this new tool based upon my background in this industry and my knowledge of and experience with using rotary buffers for over 30 yeas. Now let's see what RUPES has to say about their tools...
The technical stuff...
RUPES BigFoot LHR 19E Rotary Polisher features:
• High torque motor – will remove swirls and scratches from paint quicker with a more efficient motor.
• Dual transmission – will allow you to press the machine without slowing for additional corrective power.
• Electronic speed control – clearly marks which speed is being used and is located on top of the machine.
• Progressive trigger switch – allows you to fully control your speed with a slow start.
• Lightweight and ergonomic design – far less bulk than other rotary machines, the RUPES BigFoot LHR 19E Rotary Polisher’s design allows for increased maneuverability and control.
• Rubber tool rests – allows you to place the tool face up without damage to tool.
• 125 mm (5 inches) backing plate– smaller pads allow for higher precision during use without fear of overheating.
• Backing plate - 125 mm (5 inches)
• Power – 1200 Watts
• RPM – 450 – 1700
• Weight – 4.85 lbs
• Cord Length – 29 ft.
Pictures
Here's the RUPES LHR 19E Rotary Polisher
The RPM range matched to speed setting on the speed setting dial graph is conveniently located at the top of the tool just ahead of the speed dial.
The progressive trigger switch is located underneath the handle and has a serrated rubber face for slip-free control.
The speed lock button is located just above the progressive trigger switch to make locking-in the tool speed fast and easy.
The drive gear lock button is located at the top of the head of the polisher. This is used to lock-up the gears in order to break the backing plate free when changing backing plates. The button is recessed to help prevent accidental depression during tool operation.
Handle options
The RUPES LHR 19E comes with two handle options, the traditional stick handle, (not shown), and the more modern D-handle. You can also use the tools without any handle if that's your preference. The paddle shaped head is covered in soft rubber to make gripping it easy for maximum control while reducing grip-fatigue.
Both sides of the head unit offer threaded holes for the stick handle or the bolts that attach the d-handle.
My review
I only had access to this new rotary polisher for one day before having to box it up and ship it out to a RUPES employee. When I do reviews for products I like to use cool projects that match whatever the tool, pad or product is intended to be used for. In this case, I had a 1970 Chevelle with a modern basecoat/clearcoat paint job that was filled with swirls and scratches. This gave me a real-world opportunity to put this tool to the test. Buffing out a small section is okay but you don't really get to know a tool unless you spend hours behind it. For this project, it took me approximately 5 hours to methodically buffer out each panel using the RUPES LHR 19E Rotary Polisher and the matching RUPES coarse rotary polisher compound.
Disclaimer: A RUPES factory wool buffing pad was not available at the time so I substituted a Lake Country 6" Lambswool Cutting Pad
For this car I chose to do a three step process including,
- Compounding with the RUPES LHR 19E
- Polishing with the RUPES Mille
- Sealing with the RUPES P808 Protective Sealant
I really enjoyed using the new RUPES rotary polisher. It's lightweight, compact in size and quieter than most conventional rotary buffers. The tools was easy to hold and control, (that's two things and very different from one another), and this made buffing out thin panels, intricate areas and around emblems and objects both safe and easy. The RUPES compound easily removed the deepest swirls and scratches. It has a long buffing cycle with no visible dusting and easy wipe-off. The swirls left in the finish were shallow and easily removed by the next step - using the RUPES Mille gear-driven 5mm orbital polisher.
Small pads = the way to go
In the old days, the only options were huge pads and huge rotary buffers. The trend now day is for smaller tools, lower RPMs and smaller pads. It's real simple, smaller pads are easier to control and that makes you more efficient when doing correction and polishing work. If you've never used a rotary polisher before but are interested in making the move - then I'd recommend taking a look at the RUPES LHR 19E. It's designed to use smaller pads and this will make it faster and easier for you to learn how to use and master.
System approach
I'm a "System Guy". By this I mean, if a company has invested the time, money and research into developing a component system, chances are it works. RUPES has formulated compounds and polishes that are unique to the direct rotating action of the rotary polisher. I know some of you reading this are poo-pooing the idea that a compound and/or polish can be "tuned" to the action of a tool but I'm here to tell you it's not only true it's a fact. I've used plenty of compounds that worked great with orbital polishers but worked horrible with rotary buffers. In most cases the problems would be short working time, difficult wipe-off, excessive dusting, etc. So have an open mind and entertain the idea that RUPES has in fact developed both products and pads that work together in harmony to make the buffing experience enjoyable while accomplishing the task at had efficiently.
At the time of this review, the new RUPES LHR 19E Rotary Polishers are not yet available in the United States. RUPES projects and anticipates these new tools, matching pads and products will be available and shipping in January of 2018, (just a few weeks from now). Like all new tool introductions from RUPES the norm is for the tools to sell-out quickly. So if you think you want one... order one now and beat the crowd. Otherwise you'll get to do what most of us hate doing and that's... wait.
One Autogeek.com
RUPES BigFoot LHR 19E Rotary Polisher - Pre-Order Now!
I almost wrote that they rhymed in my prior post, actually.
