Review: Tecpel TG 902 PTG

swanicyouth

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Recently I purchased a Paint Thickness Gauge (PTG) from a seller on EBay. It's called the TecPel TG 902. It's capable of providing thickness readings of coatings on ferrous (steel) and non-ferrous (aluminum, copper, zinc, bronze, brass, etc...) metals. I paid $115.99 for it, shipping was included. It looks like this:


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I have wanted a PTG for a while. I am a hobbyist, and would actually need to use it rarely, so I didn't want to spend a whole lot of money for one. There are a couple of reasons it wanted one:

1. I wanted to check the paint thickness on several points around my vehicles to see if they have had prior paintwork done. A good clue that a vehicle has had a panel repainted is if the panels thickness varies significantly from other readings on the same car.

2. I wanted a PTG so I would be able to do before and after reading when polishing a panel to get an idea how much paint I was removing with different polishing combos. That way, I know how frequently I can safely polish my car

The TecPel TG 902

The gauge is powered by a 9V battery that is claimed to last 9 hours. It comes with a battery,

A soft case and the gauge:

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A ferrous and a non ferrous calibration foil; along with a standard calibration shim(1006 microns):

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And 2 double sided pages instruction sheet.

The meter has several features. Its able to store 255 measurements you have taken in its memory. Also, you can program minimum and maximum measurement settings and an alarm will notify you if you measure out of range. The meter also stores an average measurement. These various features are displayed below the main measurement setting in smaller numbers and you can set the machine to flip flop between these features. The meter also has a bright blue back light you can turn on and off. It's capable of displaying readings in mils or microns and change back and forth with the push of a button. All my measurements
are in microns, just because I like it better (no decimal). 1 mil equals about 25 microns. The meter takes 1 second to provide a reading once the trigger is pulled, and it weighs 157 grams (about 5.5 ounces). The meter claims + / - 10 digit accuracy in the range we would mostly use it to measure car paint (0 to 199 microns). The directions are a little hard to understand and seem to translated to English from some other language.

Calibration: It took be a little while to figure out how to calibrate this correctly. Basically, calibration involves zeroing the machine on the two foils (one ferrous and one aluminum). After that, you put the standard provided plastic shim on top of the foils and take another measurement. Since the thickness of the shim is known, you calibrate the machine to 1006 microns (if required) after measuring the known thickness plastic shim over the foil. The whole process takes a little practice, as you are required to push buttons in order on the side of the meter while holding it over the foil in the other hand.

How's it work: it seems to work pretty good. I can measure the same areas around the vehicle and get consistent results, leading me to believe the machine is fairly accurate. Also, the readings make sense based on the locations tested.

Some Examples I measured:

A reading from under my BMWs hood right along the tack weld on the inner fender, near the strut tower. This is significant, because this area has some basecoat on it from the fender, but it's dull so there is no clear on it. I figure I can use this as an approximation / guesstimation on how much clear coat is on top of the base coat:


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The reading is showing 54 microns on a ferrous (iron) material. The "Alm" on the top of the meter stands for "alarm" and it's always on the screen, although you don't have to use the high / low setting alarm. The "no" stands for "number", as the display will flip flop what number measurement you are storing. It also will flip flop to "Avg" in the same area which shows the average measurement of of those taken during the measuring session. The small "h" designates the meter is ready to take a reading.

Some more measurements:

The little piece of metal on the female part of the hood latch behind the radiator support. This is painted "chassis black" and it's matte single stage, I'm guessing with that low reading, BMW uses no primer there.

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The "198" you see in small numbers
(above photo) is the average reading of the measurement session.

A reading of the regular paint on the fender along the hoodline. Notice "feet" means the fender is stelel:

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A reading from the hood on the same car. Notice the "non ferr" telling you the hood is not metal. The hood is aluminum on my M Roadster. Paint is a little thiner here:

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A reading from the trunk lid:

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A reading from the rocker kick panel on the area that the door closes on, where you lift your feet over to get into the car. Some have said this area is always thinner, as manufacturers don't spray as much clear here this lower reading of 105 microns supports that theory:

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A reading of the paint on my Metro AirForce Blaster, pretty thick! ;

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A reading from the center of the trunk:

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A reading from the A Pillar:

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A reading from my washer:

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A reading from a Crafstman Tool Box

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Well, that's it. I'm not sure what else I can say about it. You basically calibrate it, put it squarely on the surface and pull the trigger. A second later, it displays a reading. If you try it on plastic or another non metallic surface you get no reading.

I've used the meter on 2 vehicles. The vehicle I'm demoing it on here is my Black Sapphire Metallic 2008 BMW M Roadster. It's been polished once only that I'm aware of with the Menzerna Twins and LC orange and white CCS pads on a PC. The readings on it go from about 125 to 165 microns on the external paint surfaces, depending on where you measure. The measurements see to be symmetrical on the vehicle. Oddly, the gas cap cover was an outlier at 99 microns. Not sure why. The hood, which is aluminum, is on the lower side of this vehicles readings, in the 125 to 135 micron range

I also tried it on my 2001 Nissan Pathfinder in Bayshore Blue metallic. This vehicle measure much lower being in the 70 to 100 micron range. I've only owned that vehicle for 1 year and polished it once with Menzerna IP and a yellow LC pad. Thanks for looking and comments ate welcome!









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Very nice and detailed review, I also do this as a hobbyist and didnt want to spend large amount on something i wouldnt use all the time.
 
Very nice review! Keep up the good work! :dblthumb2:
I would also like to own a PTG but new either they are too expensive or they are not reliable...
 
No M105 on that toolbox! I still want to see the business end of the thing. Thanks for the review.
 
hmmm...very interesting. Thanks for the review. Might have to check into this.
 
The money maker :

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This is the end of the machine that goes on the paint. Last night I came home after working 13 hours and walked past my black BMW in the garage. I noticed marring all over the lower left of the hood. It looked like an animal with claws jumped from place to place on the hood. This car is my semi garage queen and kept clean and pretty much as perfectly polished as possible. How did the marks get on my hood? I live alone and car is kept in garage so nobody to blame. I couldn't figure it out. Finally I realized the scratches were at the points I measured the paint. I must have moved the machine slightly and caused marring, as the tip of the machine is hard plastic.
...So, this is something I would have to remove now! I got out my 7424 and a white LC CCS 5.5" pad. I primed it with Wolfgang Finishing Glaze. Then, 3 dots of polish on the pad. Used speed 5 and did 2 sets of 5 section passes....
Marring gone! The Wolfgang polishes seem to always work great on my BSM BMW paint. They make it easy. Paint comes out perfect every time.
Then I wiped it down with 15% IPA to 2x check marring was gone. Gone. Then I waxed with 2 coats of Lusso Oro. All fixed.













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Oh, that's funny (not that you marred your car). I looked at that probe end in the picture, saw the metal in the middle, and thought to myself, boy, that's going to be hard to hold gently against the paint and not marr anything with that big handle and not being able to see the end of the probe (many testers have a small cylindrical probe on a wire that's easy to place gently on the surface). Then I read the text and saw that you had the exact problem I was thinking about.

For anyone who has used one with a probe on a wire, vs. this type, or the DeFelsko Positest/Higline II-type, do you have any comments on this?
 
Oh, that's funny (not that you marred your car). I looked at that probe end in the picture, saw the metal in the middle, and thought to myself, boy, that's going to be hard to hold gently against the paint and not marr anything with that big handle and not being able to see the end of the probe (many testers have a small cylindrical probe on a wire that's easy to place gently on the surface). Then I read the text and saw that you had the exact problem I was thinking about.

For anyone who has used one with a probe on a wire, vs. this type, or the DeFelsko Positest/Higline II-type, do you have any comments on this?

I'm sure there are better meters and the Delfesko is one of them. But with this ill have to be a lot more careful. It seems like there should be a rubber grommet there or something. Machine does continue to work well and consistently and distinguishes between ferrous, non ferrous metals, and all non metals accurately. There seems to be directions for this thing in Russian floating around, I wonder if it originates from there?
 
I'm sure there are better meters and the Delfesko is one of them.

I wasn't calling anything better than anything else, just observing that there are 3 styles of probe, the one on a wire, the one where it's built into the unit like the DeFelsko, and the one like yours.

I know the one on the wire is easy to place on the car carefully, but it pretty much requires a two-handed approach. The others don't, I was just wondering out loud if the DeFelsko-type are less prone to marring than yours.

As far as being made in Russia...I kind of doubt that, do we really import anything here from Russia? Everything seems to be made in the pacific rim somewhere, except for the stuff that's made in Mexico and the stuff that used to be made in Canada before all the car co's started closing their plants there.
 
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