Rinseless wash headache

Consoleman

Consoleman

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So i finally had picked out some products ready to order for my first detail on my new truck (Chevy 1500 black). Im keeping it simple untill I get my feet wet so no glazes, polishing, wax etc. I was planning on using the two bucket method with meguiars hyper and the incredimitt. I then leaned about the rinseless wash and figured Ill give it a try even if my waterhose is a few feet away.

Rinseless Washing:
Im planing on using the eagle edgeless (480 gsm) MF towel for washing but read that the platinum puffle (400 gsm) are softer than the EE. Does softer mean better even the the EE have a better gsm?

How many MF 16x16 do I need for only washing (not drying) for a 1500 truck crew cab? I dont plan on rinsing my towels between wiping panels.

Im getting either uber or ONR. I have read that ONR can be used for clay lub and QD among other things. Can the same be said about uber?

Drying:
I was planning on using the waffle weave ultimate guzzler but I see that most people just use more MF towels. Why?
 
Big Red Sponge is a great option. Saves you the trouble of having to wash so many microfibers.

Sent from my LGL22C using Tapatalk
 
I use both the Garry Dean method and the "rinseless wash mitt" method with a grit guard, depending on how dirty the car is and what I plan on doing after washing. I would think 8 towels should be more than adequate for your 1500, it really doesn't matter what kind you use, don't overthink it.
 
If you only get 8 towels you will always feel like you should have got more.
I stick to the blue Eagle edge-less because I like them the best.

I use the Eagle Avalanche for drying and the orange Eagle edge-less for final.
 
Consoleman said:
So i finally had picked out some products ready to order for my first detail on my new truck (Chevy 1500 black). Im keeping it simple untill I get my feet wet so no glazes, polishing, wax etc. I was planning on using the two bucket method with meguiars hyper and the incredimitt. I then leaned about the rinseless wash and figured Ill give it a try even if my waterhose is a few feet away.

Rinseless Washing:
Im planing on using the eagle edgeless (480 gsm) MF towel for washing but read that the platinum puffle (400 gsm) are softer than the EE. Does softer mean better even the the EE have a better gsm?

How many MF 16x16 do I need for only washing (not drying) for a 1500 truck crew cab? I dont plan on rinsing my towels between wiping panels.Eight to ten if your using the Gary Dean method.

Im getting either uber or ONR. I have read that ONR can be used for clay lub and QD among other things. Can the same be said about uber?

Drying:
I was planning on using the waffle weave ultimate guzzler but I see that most people just use more MF towels. Why?
Click to expand...
You can use a waffle weave, but a 16X16 mf towel is easier to handle when doing sections at a time.
 
Im was planing on only using 1 bucket so no red sponge or washmit for me. I just like the idea of fusing a MF towel then tossing it aside and grabbing and new one.

I have seen where some ppl use 6/7 on a small car alone. So will 10 MF towels be enougth for wash and dry or should I get a couple of guzzlers for drying.

eagle edgeless it is spazz but what do you mean by final?
 
Just walking around and inspecting for stray spots.
It's easier with a small towel.

You will want a dedicated drying towel or two. The Griots PFMs are supposed to be 'the one'.
I'm happy with my choice of the Avalanche. I like it better than the Guzzler.

I recently also started using the Big Red sponge with ONR and I am very pleased with the results.(thanks Guz)
 
Softness isn't necessarily as important here as the gsm, but then again it is. Owning both towels I can tell you to stick to the blue or orange (preferably orange) EE. Reason being yes the platinum pluffles are very soft but they are geared more towards drying and that is exactly what they should be used for as they are good for both wiping and blotting. The EE on the other hand have many more fibers (I've always questioned the 400 vs 480 gsm) because the EE feel as if they have nearly twice the fiber/thickness to them as the platinum pluffle but again this is what you want.

That said, more fibers serves as A) more space to hold more rinseless solution for providing adequate lubrication of the surface you're wiping and B) more space for the dirt to be pulled up into and trapped deep in the fibers rather than on the surface where they could potentially scratch the very paint you're trying to clean and protect.

Lastly I like to use orange because it allows me to better see just how much dirt is on or how dirty my towel is after each wipe.

-Chris
 
Rinseless wash is much better suited for maintenance details vs initial detailing of a vehicle.
It is also much better suited and accommodating using the Garry Dean method vs a two bucket or one bucket method.
Towel management is everything.

If you are going to perform a rinseless wash on a very dirty vehicle, prepare to use some throw away towels for the initial cleaning, then use your better microfiber towels once the bulk of the dirt has been removed.
Rinseless wash does not mean you can't use rinse, water, or the pressure from a hose.
You can use all of it, and even perform a traditional wash with a rinseless wash product if you so choose.
Find what works best for you, and the specific task at hand, on the vehicle you are detailing.

You will find that getting into cracks and crevices can be very difficult without the pressure from a hose.
Steam machines, air compressor tools, and blower vac's can be extremely helpful in these situations.
If by hand, plastic razor blades or credit cards wrapped in microfiber towels will usually get the job done.
Just be very careful, as the paint in cracks and crevices can easily chip, scratch, or break off in chunks, especially paint re-spray.

Wheels and wheels wells may be the hardest part.
Heavy degreasers and APC cleaners are your friend.
Minor wheel acid, such as Meg;s D14O will be extremely helpful on wheels caked in brake dust.
Never use wheel acid on plastic, and use common sense for safety purposes.

Most rinseless washes are pretty benign in actual cleaning power.
So, don't expect much on a very dirty vehicle.
Also highly suggest following up with a detail spray or spray wax.
This will get anything you missed, and clean up any possible spotting by the rinseless wash.

Rinseless washes are not magic products and not all are created equal.
They are great when used as intended and with knowledge and experience.
 
spazzz said:
Just walking around and inspecting for stray spots.
It's easier with a small towel.

You will want a dedicated drying towel or two. The Griots PFMs are supposed to be 'the one'.
I'm happy with my choice of the Avalanche. I like it better than the Guzzler.

I recently also started using the Big Red sponge with ONR and I am very pleased with the results.(thanks Guz)
Click to expand...

Will you ever go back to MF after using the red sponge? Do do one swipe the rinse using a 2 bucket system?
 
Consoleman said:
Will you ever go back to MF after using the red sponge? Do do one swipe the rinse using a 2 bucket system?
Click to expand...

I really have to see. I have only done one wash with the sponge and ONR.
I will again tomorrow or Friday, with a much dirtier car than last time.

The true test will be in winter when the brine hits. I will always use MFs with the GD method at times.
You still need a MF with the sponge for spots like the grill, spoiler area and door jambs.
The sponge is just a little quicker for the big areas.

I use a 2 bucket and rinse the living tar out of the sponge after a couple of swipes.
But yeah, one swipe on lower door panels for sure.
 
Consoleman said:
Im was planing on only using 1 bucket so no red sponge or washmit for me. I just like the idea of fusing a MF towel then tossing it aside and grabbing and new one.

I have seen where some ppl use 6/7 on a small car alone. So will 10 MF towels be enougth for wash and dry or should I get a couple of guzzlers for drying.

eagle edgeless it is spazz but what do you mean by final?
Click to expand...

Get WG Uber, (10) 16"x16" Eagle Edgeless MF towels and GG PFM Drying Towel and you'll be set. I have a Sierra Crew and I couldn't be happier with this RW method.
 
Some excellent advice here. As vanev said, depending on the condition (construction, new asphalt, etc) you might want to use lesser towels (Costco/Sam's/autoparts) for initial wiping before going over the section again with quality microfibers. It doesn't happen often, but the situation does come up once in a while.

As for drying, try using two towel method first to see how it feels - one damp/wrung out towel to pick up heavy liquid, followed with a dry one to clean streaks. You might need a second dry one for the truck, but probably not more since the damp one would do all the heavy lifting. Do this first before investing in larger towels and ended up not using them (like me).

And agreed with ekennett - don't over think it. Take your time. It's supposed to be fun, not stress you out! lol
 
BrutalNoodle said:
And agreed with ekennett -
don't over think it. Take your time.
It's supposed to be fun,
not stress you out! lol
Click to expand...
^^^ :iagree: ^^^

•And, speaking of headache(s):
-Don't let all that money (of ours)
that Big Pharma spent on research
be all for naught:
IMG_15711.JPG



Bob
 
Just saw your guys post.

Chris EE towels it is.

Vanev great advice thanks. You convinced me to use GD method with one bucket. You said to follow up with a QD spray or spray wax. Can i use ONR or uber in a spray bottle?
 
Brutalnoodle true it depends like vanev says. Ill just get 10 just in case. I have read that if the car is very dirty to powerwash it first. Only thing i need to work out is if i will use distilled water in my bucket.
 
Consoleman said:
Ill just get 10 just in case.
Click to expand...

Personally I would get a dozen, preferably two. That way you'd have enough for rotations, and keep some in the glove box/trunk for emergency clean ups.

More towels is better than not enough. As the old saying goes: Better to have, and not need, than to need and not have.
 
Consoleman said:
Ill just get 10 just in case. I have read that if the car is very dirty to powerwash it first. Only thing i need to work out is if i will use distilled water in my bucket.
Click to expand...

Few practices I've read on here on those lines:
A lot of guys will have their rinseless solution in a pump up pressure sprayer for pretreating dirty panels and to help knock off heavier dirt. A trip to the coin-op car wash beforehand just to blast off the grit is another option.
I think with practice you'll learn what dirt level is the best for each method.

As far as distilled water: Since your rinseless wash product acts as a water softener and you're going panel by panel anyway (less likelihood that the wash will be drying on the car to create water spots), distilled water isn't 100% necessary. It is a good idea if you're planning on keeping your leftover wash mix so it's less likely to grow stuff. I save mine when dirty media never goes back in the bucket. Makes for super fast between-wash window cleaning!

Also, buy more towels than you think you'd use. I'm barely into going rinseless myself and wish I had gotten more!
 
lane5515 said:
Get WG Uber, (10) 16"x16" Eagle Edgeless MF towels and GG PFM Drying Towel and you'll be set. I have a Sierra Crew and I couldn't be happier with this RW method.
Click to expand...

^^ this. I do mostly all Rinseless on my personal vehicles and use a modified Gary Dean method. I have zero interest in attempting to rinse off any sponge or mitt and then re-applying said applicator to my dirty panels. I much prefer a fresh clean surface and a wipe/roll technique with a dripping wet MF Rag.
 
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