Rinseless wash method?

[Kinalyx]

Curious about everyone elses rinseless wash method.

I dont remember where i found this 1, but its a variation of the Gary Dean method, but you keep using the same rinseless wash water and bucket.

Basically i mix the rinseless wash, add my grit guard and put 20ish, folded, microfibers into the bucket.

When ready to wash i need a few dry microfibers for buffing/drying. I pull the first towel out of the bucket and wring as much out as possible until its only damp.
I pull a second microfiber out and wring a bit out but leave enough to do the wash of the panels.

The wet towel is for cleaning, the damp is to "dry" the panel, and the dry is to buff/final dry of the panel. When the drying MF gets too damp, grab another.

After each MF is fully used it gets put aside in a dry bucket or bag, after the wash they get washed and dried and put back into the bucket for the next wash. I am usually able to get 5+ washes from the same bucket of water without adding any additional water or wash solution.

I find this to be the most efficient way to do a rinseless wash i have used.

SIDE NOTE: Since the water is being used for more than 1 wash, i only use distilled water for this process.


Shawn

 

[Coatingsarecrack]

Most here use similar method. I don’t use the “damp” towel.

First i pretreat the panel with sprayed on rinseless solution. Let dwell couple minutes then use rinsless towel out of bucket, wrung out so it is barely dripping.

One pass per side. Use all 8 side goes into clean bucket. I then dry per panel using a PFM and sometimes a drying aid. I feel the middle wipe is not needed and save that effort to apply a sealant or quick detailer after.

Also when wiping i roll the towel across the panel. Picture holding end of MF between thumb and for finger.

As I drag Rinseless towel I start with palm facing paint and slowly roll had up as I make my pass. This pulls dirty edge up and off paint.

If you wanna see a video of technique loook up Ammo NYC Frothe video.

I would add this technique and pretreat to your routine if not already doing.


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[glen e]

To each his own, my procedure is a lot simpler. I put 1.5 oz of ech20 in a bucket of water, add five microfiber towels, pull em from the bucket, and do two panels, and discard for later washer, then dry with a waffle weave… Been doing it this way for about 10 years, never fails me. No scratch, car looks great.

 

[evo77]

I understand that everyone has their own methods and techniques and there is "more than one way to skin a cat" but here is mine...

In my opinion, pretreating panels, multiple towels and/or dual buckets are not necessary for a safe, effective wash. KEEP IT SIMPLE. Don't overthink or overcomplicate the process as many do.

One wash mitt, one grit guard and one bucket with 3 gallons of water and rinseless solution is all you need as long as you follow some basic technique rules.


1. Do one panel at a time. It's easier this way and you don't have to worry about the solution drying on the paint if you cover wider areas.

2. Dedicate one side of the wash mitt for the initial pass. This picks up 95% of all surface dirt and applies the first layer of solution to the surface. Use LIGHT pressure (just enough to keep it flat and gliding). Cover the panel in one continuous motion (as if you were mowing the lawn) without ever allowing your wash mitt to touch the surfaces that you already wiped. The point of this first pass is to pick up (transfer) *most* of the surface dirt from the paint into your wash mitt in the least aggressive manner. Remember, trust the rinseless wash solution (assuming your using a good one).

3. Flip your wash mitt to the other side. This is a fresh clean side. Wipe down the panel again in the same continuous motion using light pressure again. This pass will remove the remaining dirt left (if any). There is also no concern at this point with moving your wash mitt over areas you've already wiped because there are no contaminants left on the paint to worry about scratching. It's basically clean.

4. Dunk the dirty side of the wash mitt (the side used for your initial pass) face down to the bottom of the bucket. With your hand, keep it pressed against the grit guard and slightly twist your wrist in a motion that grinds the mitt on the grit guard. This dislodges all the dirt from the wash mitt directly towards the bottom of the bucket and it keeps it trapped. The point of this is to immediately force the dirt to the bottom of the bucket rather than dislodging dirt at the top of the water, which risks these particles (as they are floating around) to adhere back onto the wash mitt as you dunk and lift it from the solution.

5. Use your favorite drying towel to dry the surface.

6. Move to next panel and repeat steps 2-5.

 

[CleanIT]

I pre-treat using a Marolex sprayer. I then put a few mf towels in the rw solution bucket and clean/wipe dry. I've used the BRB. It works but not my favorite. I've used ech20 and ONR. Like both a lot.

 

[Larry A]

Back in the day 50s and 60s a common rinseless wash was a cup of KEROSENE in a bucket of water.Wash with a towel or sponge and wipe dry with a towel .It would prevent rust comming from metal clips that hold mouldings on. It would keep road film from collecting on paint, and it would put a little shine on paint. Kerosene is not that oily like diesel fuel . Mixed with water it would make a white solution.

 

[Kappy]

I still use the original "Gary Dean Method" that I saw in a video nine years ago:

Pre-spray with rinseless solution
Multiple towels soaking in a bucket of rinseless solution
Damp towel to "dry" the panels
Dry towel for final buff, although it's been so hot lately that the solution practically evaporates after drying with the damp towel

Question for the OP: What's the purpose of a grit guard if you're not reintroducing the used towels back into the bucket? Just curious because I've never thought of using one for this.

 

[Bruno Soares]

I spray the car with 1oz of N-914 diluted in 1.5L of water. Then use 2 buckets with grit guard, one with 2oz of N-914 in it, the other is just water. I use the Big Red Sponge. Before going in for more rinseless solution, I dunk it in the water bucket and agitate against the grit guard/washboard just to try and remove anything it might have caught, then it goes into the bucket with the solution and is ready to use again. Finally, I dry the panels I cleaned.

 

[Kinalyx]

I still use the original "Gary Dean Method" that I saw in a video nine years ago:

Pre-spray with rinseless solution
Multiple towels soaking in a bucket of rinseless solution
Damp towel to "dry" the panels
Dry towel for final buff, although it's been so hot lately that the solution practically evaporates after drying with the damp towel

Question for the OP: What's the purpose of a grit guard if you're not reintroducing the used towels back into the bucket? Just curious because I've never thought of using one for this.

If you are using new water/solution every wash, there really isnt a need for the Grit Guard. In my case the solution is used for multiple washes and im actually storing the microfibers in the solution while not in use. The Grit Guard is just in case the microfibers have anything extra left on them after the wash and in the hopes that it helps. Also, ive seen the solution go "bad" after a couple months and there were some extra little bits at the bottom of the bucket, so i started using the GG.

 

[PaulMys]

If you are using new water/solution every wash, there really isnt a need for the Grit Guard. In my case the solution is used for multiple washes and im actually storing the microfibers in the solution while not in use. The Grit Guard is just in case the microfibers have anything extra left on them after the wash and in the hopes that it helps. Also, ive seen the solution go "bad" after a couple months and there were some extra little bits at the bottom of the bucket, so i started using the GG.

My thinking exactly.

My RW buckets always have Grit Guards to keep the mitts/towels from lying on the bottom of the bucket.

Theoretically, there shouldn't be any debris. But I don't live on theory.

 

[Coatingsarecrack]

I understand that everyone has their own methods and techniques and there is "more than one way to skin a cat" but here is mine...

In my opinion, pretreating panels, multiple towels and/or dual buckets are not necessary for a safe, effective wash. KEEP IT SIMPLE. Don't overthink or overcomplicate the process as many do.

One wash mitt, one grit guard and one bucket with 3 gallons of water and rinseless solution is all you need as long as you follow some basic technique rules.


1. Do one panel at a time. It's easier this way and you don't have to worry about the solution drying on the paint if you cover wider areas.

2. Dedicate one side of the wash mitt for the initial pass. This picks up 95% of all surface dirt and applies the first layer of solution to the surface. Use LIGHT pressure (just enough to keep it flat and gliding). Cover the panel in one continuous motion (as if you were mowing the lawn) without ever allowing your wash mitt to touch the surfaces that you already wiped. The point of this first pass is to pick up (transfer) *most* of the surface dirt from the paint into your wash mitt in the least aggressive manner. Remember, trust the rinseless wash solution (assuming your using a good one).

3. Flip your wash mitt to the other side. This is a fresh clean side. Wipe down the panel again in the same continuous motion using light pressure again. This pass will remove the remaining dirt left (if any). There is also no concern at this point with moving your wash mitt over areas you've already wiped because there are no contaminants left on the paint to worry about scratching. It's basically clean.

4. Dunk the dirty side of the wash mitt (the side used for your initial pass) face down to the bottom of the bucket. With your hand, keep it pressed against the grit guard and slightly twist your wrist in a motion that grinds the mitt on the grit guard. This dislodges all the dirt from the wash mitt directly towards the bottom of the bucket and it keeps it trapped. The point of this is to immediately force the dirt to the bottom of the bucket rather than dislodging dirt at the top of the water, which risks these particles (as they are floating around) to adhere back onto the wash mitt as you dunk and lift it from the solution.

5. Use your favorite drying towel to dry the surface.

6. Move to next panel and repeat steps 2-5.

I just can’t believe a grit gaurd traps it in the bottom. After a couple washes the dunking and twisting motion have to swirl it around the bucket.

Also no dirt comes off the mitt on the way down to the grit gaurd. Not doubting the outcome but I just can’t believe a mitt comes out of rinse bucket dirt free.

If i did attempt this method it would only Be with a DirtLock grit gaurd.


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[Coatingsarecrack]

My thinking exactly.

My RW buckets always have Grit Guards to keep the mitts/towels from lying on the bottom of the bucket.

Theoretically, there shouldn't be any debris. But I don't live on theory.

I just leave them in the bucket because just cuz I bought them.


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[MisterSnoop]

I pretreat with my SPTA cordless sprayer. I've gone to smaller 2 gallon buckets for rinseless washes and just make up the solution a gallon at a time. Then dry with a PFM.

 

[vobro]

I pretreat with my SPTA cordless sprayer. I've gone to smaller 2 gallon buckets for rinseless washes and just make up the solution a gallon at a time. Then dry with a PFM.

This! I have to ask what is the benefit to leaving the solution for weeks or months? I just calculate the rinseless for a gallon of water and go

 

[KBsToy]

I use a 5-gallon bucket grit guard with about 4 gallons of distilled water and N-194 with big red and yellow sponge. Bucket stays on my cart for when the wife come home her car gets a quick wash and a spritz of a drying aid. Replenish distilled water and solution as needed.

My K.I.S.S method

 

[evo77]

I just can’t believe a grit gaurd traps it in the bottom. After a couple washes the dunking and twisting motion have to swirl it around the bucket.

I don't dunk and swirl the mitt in the water. That's sort of a pointless act. I submerge it face down (dirty side) and place it firmly planted against the grit guard, then twist my wrist to dislodge the dirt by scrubbing it against the grate. This doesn't give a chance for any heavy dirt particles to float around near the top of the surface which could get trapped back into the mitt as you pull the mitt out of the water.

Also no dirt comes off the mitt on the way down to the grit gaurd. Not doubting the outcome but I just can’t believe a mitt comes out of rinse bucket dirt free.

Believe it my friend. It works when done correctly. And the condition of my paint is the proof.

 

[01GreyStangGT]

For rinse less washing, I use a bucket with a grit guard and use a big red sponge and an ultra black sponge. The sponges work great as others have said.

 

[Kinalyx]

This! I have to ask what is the benefit to leaving the solution for weeks or months? I just calculate the rinseless for a gallon of water and go

Honestly i just find it to be the most efficient way to do it. I have a really busy schedule between work and kids in sports, so when i have time to wash my truck, i like to make the most out of it. I can go straight to power washing the wheels and cleaning them with cleaners, then pressure washing the heavier spots of dirt off the truck and go straight into the rinseless wash. I have never had an issue with the solution losing lubrication, and if i see extra crap in the bottom at any point, i clean the MFs and swap out the solution.

 

[dlc95]

Depends on how dirty the vehicle is.

I do a lot of "hybrid" washes, basically using my rinseless solution in place of soap. The gf's Jeep that stays in the garage, I can do a standard rinseless and be done with it. Nasty vehicles get a Power Clean presoak, power washed, and rinseless washed.

Wheels and tires can be wonky when rinseless washing though. I use a lot of Opti Clean on them. Again, the gf's Jeep is a great example. She has a blue Wrangler Sahara 4+E, the one with gloss black wheels. Those things scratch really easily. Probably wasn't a wise choice from the manufacturer to use such sensitive paint. I like to flush those off from loose dirt grains with ONR in a pump sprayer, then use Opti Clean to get a nice, well lubricated layer on before the contact wash.

I use separate buckets, each with a grit guard and wash solution.

On nice cars / maintenance washes I use the BRS. On cars that are getting corrected, or my old beat up rust bucket, I use that blue Lake Country sponge. That blue LC sponge is the exact shape and has the same cuts that the BRS does, but it's a lot harder and more textured than the BRS. BRS picks up more dirt from the surface, while the blue sponge can scrub more.

 

[Coatingsarecrack]

I pretreat with my SPTA cordless sprayer. I've gone to smaller 2 gallon buckets for rinseless washes and just make up the solution a gallon at a time. Then dry with a PFM.

Love my 2 gallon bucket for rinseless. I go 1.5 gallon at a time. Save’s a lot of product mixing mixing it in 3.5 gallon buckets.

The full big bucket makes sense if you are doing two bucket and dunking wash media but in my 8-10 towel method I use to end up just dumping a lot of product.

I also like the 2gallon gamma seal lids so I can cap off and take to the spray and prays when I’m lazy.

If cars really dirty and I wanna be lazy I take a 3.5 gallon for wheels, wash in bay then take through touchless and then rinseless


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