Rotary for next tool or a nano?
- Thread starter Reno
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Mike Phillips
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All three are good options to go with your RUPES BigFoot 15 Mark III
Here's the combination of tools I find myself using a lot and/or the most
The BEAST because it's the BEAST.
The PiXiE because it can maintain pad rotation in the 12m free spin mode
The RUPES Nano Long Neck in Rotary Mode because I love the correction ability in tight places and along edges. Also like the reach.
Here's the combination of tools I find myself using a lot and/or the most
The BEAST because it's the BEAST.
The PiXiE because it can maintain pad rotation in the 12m free spin mode
The RUPES Nano Long Neck in Rotary Mode because I love the correction ability in tight places and along edges. Also like the reach.
Dr Oldz
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Think that’s more of a question you should answer yourself. I will add my thoughts though...
Are ready for a rotary? Do you need a rotary? Do you have experience or will this be where you start to learn a rotary? I think the rotary is a great tool and I consider it a must have.
Personally I love the Rupes Rotary for detailing. The Flex PE 14 is great also.
The Flex PiXiE is the tool that I absolutely love. I wonder how I did without it. Gets used from compounding, polishing, applying wax, interior work and all sorts of other tasks. The ability to use 1 inch to 3 inch pads and change over easily is awesome.
The Rupes Nano, I sold 3 weeks after I got it. I personally wasn’t a fan.
So you will have to answer what will make more sense for you to purchase and what will benefit your more.
Are ready for a rotary? Do you need a rotary? Do you have experience or will this be where you start to learn a rotary? I think the rotary is a great tool and I consider it a must have.
Personally I love the Rupes Rotary for detailing. The Flex PE 14 is great also.
The Flex PiXiE is the tool that I absolutely love. I wonder how I did without it. Gets used from compounding, polishing, applying wax, interior work and all sorts of other tasks. The ability to use 1 inch to 3 inch pads and change over easily is awesome.
The Rupes Nano, I sold 3 weeks after I got it. I personally wasn’t a fan.
So you will have to answer what will make more sense for you to purchase and what will benefit your more.
Bruno Soares
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- Mar 30, 2017
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If you’re making money detailing then you’ll probably end up with all of those at some point. If you only take care of your own vehicle it’s hard to justify buying more than you already have. Save your money if that’s the case.
Mike Moore
Well-known member
- Dec 16, 2009
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^ Agreed.
I constantly use my Rupes Bigfoot Nano iBrid Long Neck This would be my next machine to add!
Coming Soon:
iBrid Nano EXTENSION is a 70mm (2.75”) metal shaft that provides additional reach for the iBrid Nano into even more difficult to polish and complex areas.
Extension shaft for iBrid Nano polisher - Rupes tools
Mike Phillips
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Here's a cheesy video I made showing one example of how I use the RUPES Nano Long Neck in rotary mode to edge a 928 Porsche
Mike Phillips - Edge Work - Mike Phillips Style
And keep in mind this is antique single stage paint - it's very soft so I was able to CORRECT the paint using soft foam finishing pads.
AND - AFTER using this tool in ROTARY MODE -it IS going to leave HOLOGRAMS in the paint. I know this and expect this and this is why I do this type of edge work FIRST. Next I use an ORBITAL polisher to go back over all the areas I buffed in rotary bode to remove the holograms.
Make sense?
And here's the full write-up for this detail job.
Review: Wolfgang Concours-Series Microfiber Towels - 1988 Porsche 928 s4
Mike Phillips - Edge Work - Mike Phillips Style
And keep in mind this is antique single stage paint - it's very soft so I was able to CORRECT the paint using soft foam finishing pads.
AND - AFTER using this tool in ROTARY MODE -it IS going to leave HOLOGRAMS in the paint. I know this and expect this and this is why I do this type of edge work FIRST. Next I use an ORBITAL polisher to go back over all the areas I buffed in rotary bode to remove the holograms.
Make sense?
And here's the full write-up for this detail job.
Review: Wolfgang Concours-Series Microfiber Towels - 1988 Porsche 928 s4
Reno
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- Feb 26, 2020
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so, ROTARY IS the better option ( like flex xfe15 or pe14-2 ) for overall CORRECTION. Followed by ORBITAL for POLISHING. Any MICRO TOOL will be used for better edging, except if i master the rotary with any extension and small backing plate. But MY SENSE right now telling me to buy a flex ROTARY FIRST (or a BEAST ) and invest in a MICRO tool later on.
Also best pads to have on hand Mike? if you just had the option to choose 2 kind of pads for Rupes for correction and polishing, what would they be? wool pads,MF pads etc?
Thank you for your time
Mike Phillips
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- Dec 5, 2022
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If it were me?
I'd start out with the BEAST!
I teach people how to go up on edge with this tool and turn a 6.5" pad into a 1" pad.
If you put the time in behind the buffer you can make any tool dance on the paint...
It's not just about the tool - it's about you.
Once you make your decision as to which tool you're going to go with, the next thing is to start spending time behind the tool. This means start buffing out cars. After you buffed out plenty of cars, that is you have hundreds of hours behind the tool of your choice, then with the right pads and products you should be able to make magic happen.
Making these two tools dance on paint...
Edging with the FLEX 3401 at one of our detailing classes
How to use the Flex 3401 to remove swirls & water spots
Buffing a tight area UP ON EDGE using a RUPES BigFoot 21
Custom Paint Job - 1980 Corvette - RUPES & Gyeon - Extreme Show Car Makeover at Autogeek
Buffing on edge with the RUPES BigFoot 21 Mark II
I cover this technique on page 64 of my RUPES how-to book.
Mike Phillips
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Just to add....
NOTE my hand position on both tools. I don't have one of my hands holding the forward handle do I?
There's a reason for this.
If you spend enough time behind any tool you can make it dance on paint -Mike Phillips
NOTE my hand position on both tools. I don't have one of my hands holding the forward handle do I?
There's a reason for this.
If you spend enough time behind any tool you can make it dance on paint -Mike Phillips
Mike Phillips
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- Dec 5, 2022
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And read this,
When to stop buffing - Or - How far should you go to remove swirls and scratches?
You don't buy a rotary polisher because it's the most powerful tool for paint correction with the idea that YOU'RE going to be the detailer guy that removes 100% of all the paint defects out of our car or someone else's car.
That's ridiculous.
You LEARN to do a TEST SPOT. Once you dial in how many section passes to make with your tool of choice, the pad, product and correct technique. You duplicate the Test Spot over the rest of the car.
WHATEVER defects come out with your pre-determined number of section passes is what you get. You move on. Unless you're doing SHOW CAR DETAILING to every car you detail you don't aim for un-realistic expectations.
You'll never reach perfection and you'll go crazy trying.
And if you're detailing for money - you'll go broke due to the "time factor".
Keep it real.
Learn to educate your customers and set their expectations. It's perfectly fine to try to remove 100% of all defects in a daily driver for someone else as long as you are charging by the hours.
Guess what?
No one is going to pay you for this.
A gear-driven orbital polisher has ZERO PAD STALLING. A rotary buffer has zero pad stalling too but in INFLICTS holograms into the paint - doesn't matter how good you are, the pad use or the abrasive technology.
It's simply physics. A pad rotating in a single direction puts holograms into paint. You might not see them? Especially on like colors. But they are there. So if you want to turn out high quality results as fast as humanly possible - get a gear-driven orbital and INVEST your time being the toll and become GREAT with it.
Choose, RUPES, choose Makita or choose FLEX - but go gear-driven orbital.
When to stop buffing - Or - How far should you go to remove swirls and scratches?
You don't buy a rotary polisher because it's the most powerful tool for paint correction with the idea that YOU'RE going to be the detailer guy that removes 100% of all the paint defects out of our car or someone else's car.
That's ridiculous.
You LEARN to do a TEST SPOT. Once you dial in how many section passes to make with your tool of choice, the pad, product and correct technique. You duplicate the Test Spot over the rest of the car.
WHATEVER defects come out with your pre-determined number of section passes is what you get. You move on. Unless you're doing SHOW CAR DETAILING to every car you detail you don't aim for un-realistic expectations.
You'll never reach perfection and you'll go crazy trying.
And if you're detailing for money - you'll go broke due to the "time factor".
Keep it real.
Learn to educate your customers and set their expectations. It's perfectly fine to try to remove 100% of all defects in a daily driver for someone else as long as you are charging by the hours.
Guess what?
No one is going to pay you for this.
A gear-driven orbital polisher has ZERO PAD STALLING. A rotary buffer has zero pad stalling too but in INFLICTS holograms into the paint - doesn't matter how good you are, the pad use or the abrasive technology.
It's simply physics. A pad rotating in a single direction puts holograms into paint. You might not see them? Especially on like colors. But they are there. So if you want to turn out high quality results as fast as humanly possible - get a gear-driven orbital and INVEST your time being the toll and become GREAT with it.
Choose, RUPES, choose Makita or choose FLEX - but go gear-driven orbital.
Reno
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- Feb 26, 2020
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- Thread starter
- #13
And read this,
Guess what?
No one is going to pay you for this.
Thats true Mike! Thanks for sharing your insight. i prefer to buy the beast and i will. makita is 100 euros cheaper here but i prefer the leader of its kind, flex.
also i want to buy your RUPES book but i cant find it as ebook? is it available to purchase it as ebook?
I to am wanting to get the ebook if possible. Good point Reno. Hope mike chimes in with good news there
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reno
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- Feb 26, 2020
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Mike today i was thinking of you. You are absolutely right. i was working on some tight spots on a bmw M5 and i was correcting some deep scratches. although with customer we decide to do polsihing and then seal, he is a good friend and i wanted to correct some bad scratches he had and kept changing pads from microfiber with menzerna fg400 for correction and then polishing with rupes yellow pad and rupes quarz green. the yellow keramik polish with yellow pads didnt even remove a swirl. and as i was working with rupes mark III i realized "THE BEAST" is the way to go. Customer was very happy with resault , buy i am very tired :buffing:And read this,
Choose, RUPES, choose Makita or choose FLEX - but go gear-driven orbital.
.
Mike Phillips
Active member
- Dec 5, 2022
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Sorry to say, we never were able to get to turning the RUPES, FLEX and Boat detailing paperback books into E-books.
Mike Moore
Well-known member
- Dec 16, 2009
- 1,027
- 62
IMHO The next tool I would choose would be a Rupes iBrid long neck.
Why?
You already have a Rupes 15" for 5" pads and correction/polishing.
Although you are missing the 3" machine IMHO it can wait. (a bit)
I use my Rupes iBrid long neck for small areas on every car I do.
Now if you are really frustrated
don't worry about it get them all.
Again, IMHO, as time goes on, you probably will wind up getting every tool.
Why?
You already have a Rupes 15" for 5" pads and correction/polishing.
Although you are missing the 3" machine IMHO it can wait. (a bit)
I use my Rupes iBrid long neck for small areas on every car I do.
Now if you are really frustrated
Again, IMHO, as time goes on, you probably will wind up getting every tool.
Reno
New member
- Feb 26, 2020
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- Thread starter
- #20
IMHO The next tool I would choose would be a Rupes iBrid long neck.
Why?
You already have a Rupes 15" for 5" pads and correction/polishing.
Although you are missing the 3" machine IMHO it can wait. (a bit)
I use my Rupes iBrid long neck for small areas on every car I do.
Now if you are really frustrateddon't worry about it get them all.
Again, IMHO, as time goes on, you probably will wind up getting every tool.
man, you are doin great job out there. saw your youtube channel and the cars.
by the way. i have an spta 75mm 3" polisher. good enough
someguys saying " i sold rupes when i got flex pxe"
do you recommend the deluxe kit (already have the rupes mark III kit) or buy ibrid alone?