Rotary tips

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zaxjax

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I just got my Makita and done plenty of research. I've been practicing on my DD F-150 and on low speeds, the Makita does more paint correction than a PC ever could.

I know the basics, keep the speed low, never stop and all keep moving, pay attention to the 12-3 area and keep the pad tilted slightly. I've started with just a white polishing pad and low speed.

What am I missing?


I plan to use Foam Pads for now, which wool pads are more user friendly?
 
I am new to the rotary myself and have done 2 full correction jobs with my makita. I am using the system one with the wool/foam combo and have found it to be a very good setup for a beginner such as myself. Wool is very forgiving as best I can tell because I could work a 2x2 area for a while and the paint would barely be warm to the touch but I would get awesome correction and on a light colored car could almost be LSP ready. This is all coming from a amature detailer so take it as lightly as you wish.
 
I am new to a rotary also, i have a Milwaukee Rotary. My question is, do you have to work the polish in before breaking it down, as you do with a Porter Cable?:buffing:
 
Diminishing Abrasives
Diminishing abrasives require friction, to activate and progressively reduce there size until they become a finite milled dust; they are buffered or cushioned in a lubricating water-based oil film emulsion, usually in a semi-liquid paste. Wet polishes eliminate the heat caused by buffing; heat causes gloss loss.Some very abrasive compound polishes don’t feel abrasive to the touch because the particles are formulated in a solvent or polymer oils in a water-based emulsion and are not released without friction.

The abrasive start off as large particles, which removes the most paint, they are then reduced in size into finer and finer particles, removing progressively less of the paint surface, by the friction caused by the foam pads contact with the paint surface. By varying the size of the abrasive a differing cut is obtained, so the more the abrasives are reduced in size the finer the resultant finish until the particles are reduced to a very fine powder, which in turn produces a burnished surface shine.
- http://www.detailingbliss.com/forum/f37/how-can-i-tell-when-polish-3100.html#post49743
 
I would avoid tilting your pad when you're buffing (especially a flat surface). The flatter the better or you'll get uneven pressure of the pad to surface contact.
 
David Fermani said:
I would avoid tilting your pad when you're buffing (especially a flat surface). The flatter the better or you'll get uneven pressure of the pad to surface contact.
Click to expand...

:iagree:

Titling the pad scares me! When I use a rotary and I try not to very often! I keep the pads flat, just because I am not a pro with a rotary and do not want to burn a spot.
 
Well, I did my truck and I didn't burn the paint. I never had the speed above 1500, and I used M83 on a white pad followed up with Nano on a white pad. Unreal the amount of correction I got from just those two polishes on white pads.

I'm no expert but it wasn't bad. I have been practicing prior to that on some friends beaters and old junk hoods.
 
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