rupes 21 destroyed some good quality pads

I am sitting on an airplane so I cannot go into too much detail, but your polishing time per section is about 4 minutes too long. After 1 minute you are loading paint residue into the pad, the abrasives are loaded with paint, and the lubricant is no longer as effective.

The combination of a lubricant that has lost efficiency and a slurry that has more solid content mean your results are going to suffer. You are also inducing more drag at the foam/paint interface which means the pad is flexing more and heating up. The longer you work it, the more the problems increase and internal temperature of the pad goes through the roof.

Shorten your work times by about 500%. You will getter a better finish, better pad life and you'll be done faster :)
 
What Todd said. Beat me to it. Polish 30 -45 seconds, brush off pad to remove spent product and removed paint, add more product and move to next section. 5 minutes will create way too much heat. Also, it is best to only use Rupes polishes with Rupes pads. Other polishes have solvents that can cause delamination and general pad deterioration.
 
prob could do with speed 3.5 too
but figure like 3 seconds for shoulder to shoulder for polisher movement
5 pea drops initially
after 4 section passes..maybe 6 clean pad with brush
then apply 3 to 4 pea size drops

repeat till panel is done then move to next with a fresh pad
 
I dunno.

I'm still using the Rupes pads that first came out when the first machine became available at AGO.

None have failed.

Granted, I only use them a few times a year.
 
thanks guys for the tips, i will try to reduce my polishing time in order to keep my pads alive (my FLEX 3401 is so different in that sense ...)
one thing is not really clear to me-if speed 4 is the maximum we have to use with the 21 mark2 and faster is just to wild and destroying pads, why do they offer speed 5-6? curves? why not just add even more Torque to handle the curves ?-that fast motion is just to wiled and not healthy to the pads (especially with the washer MOD) and because no Mather what (mark2 and all the tweaks they add) it's just bad on curves and cant do half of what the flex can do -but that is just another case (-:
 
The 21mm throw is hard on pads, even if you use the Chinese Rupes knock offs it will wear out pads fast.
With the 21mm throw, you have to use Rupes pads or pads designed for it, like LC HD line or B&F Urotecs.
The 15mm orbit is less forgiving, in case you want to play around with different pads.
 
aderet said:
yes-it's the same rupes pad that destroyed a few days after ..
Click to expand...

Thank you.

A few things come to mind.

1. Though it's unlikely, check backing plate. Make sure it's gripping the pad securely. If it isn't securely gripping the pads, that itself can get things hot at the surface, resulting in pad blow out.

2. I did watch the video, and I believe there is still too much pressure being used. Also the pad didn't appear to be flat on the paint. On flat panels, the pad should be flat. The angled pad + consistent pressure load will cause pad destruction as well.

3. Some after market pads that are taller won't be able to handle the extreme lateral motions found on these tall stroke machines. These taller after market pads twist and flex in the middle, heat up, and blow out.

The only problem I really had with Rupes pads is that I've had the loop backing die on a couple yellow pads. I was learning how to use the system with them, and used too much pressure. I've also had the blue microfiber fall out due to improper cleaning methods (anyone reading - be gentle with a pad cleaning brush. The fibers are looped - not straight strings. Too aggressive cleaning can have the brush bristles get caught on/in the loop holes, which can end up pulling the fibers out of the substrate... I now brush them lightly, or use and old credit card to scrape them off). That Zephir compound cuts a lot of paint off a vehicle, and the microfiber pads can really get full fast. It's also unique in that the compound is both sticky and dusty if allowed to build up.
 
I've never had a problem like this. It's your technique. Your generating to much heat. work smaller areas and work shorter times.
I've had my Bigfoot since they came out. Sure a few pads get torn up with use but it's years before that happens. Just normal ware. But never have I destroyed pads like that. I wash my pads right after I use them and I keep them for years.
 
More speed more heat= less time to work before you destroy your pads. I switch my pads every few minutes when doing large areas to keep them from overheating. I may have a few more pads to clean at day's end but they are not going in the trash can
 
Work smaller areas and slower arm movement to let the polisher do the work. You are consistently lifting the handle end of the polisher forcing the front down into the paint. I know you think you are keeping it flat, we all do. Flat front to back and also side to side. X and Y axis.

I have a buddy that helps me sometimes and its a struggle to get him to slow down his arms. He thinks he is adding to the polisher's movement. He never seems to work the polish evenly because of all the movement.
 
From the VDO I am clearly see that you put a little too much pressure and the machine showing some stall as well. Adjust the pressure let it spin.
 
The thing I noticed is that your working section is huge, 1/2 of the hood.

Todd@RUPES said:
The combination of a lubricant that has lost efficiency and a slurry that has more solid content mean your results are going to suffer. You are also inducing more drag at the foam/paint interface which means the pad is flexing more and heating up. The longer you work it, the more the problems increase and internal temperature of the pad goes through the roof.
Click to expand...

^What Todd from Rupes says.
 
How's it coming along after the above given advice?
 
aderet said:
it can take around 5 minutes, i am trying to work the compound until it breaks down totally..
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that's way to long i think, i recently used some sonax perfect finish 4-6 that i got for free, that stuff supposedly breaks down from a medium compound to a ultrafine polish in 1 minute and ten seconds. they give you the buffing time right on the bottle. you're almost over it by 5 times
 
DBAILEY said:
Work smaller areas and slower arm movement to let the polisher do the work. You are consistently lifting the handle end of the polisher forcing the front down into the paint. I know you think you are keeping it flat, we all do. Flat front to back and also side to side. X and Y axis.

I have a buddy that helps me sometimes and its a struggle to get him to slow down his arms. He thinks he is adding to the polisher's movement. He never seems to work the polish evenly because of all the movement.
Click to expand...

to add to that I think its very important to put a couple white lines on the backing plate (assuming its black) so you can actually see when its spinning and when its stalling. You need to do this with the long throw machines
 
i think the pads get weak if you dry them foam side up or they're not fully dry before you use them. the velcro part will come off sometimes
 
This was a very good thread lots of good information
Well done everyone
 
Try Some Optimum Waffle Pads . You dont need alot of pressure, they are also flow air a lot better keeping the product,pad, and surface cooler.
 
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